Should I buffer my coco?

Yes you can grow with the one part but forget all of the stuff you have accept the one part and some Epsom Salt.

Which version of the Mega Crop do you have?

What is your starting water source and PPM? If you are on municipal water get the water quality report from online. We want to know the information in the "Hardness section" and "Sanitation Section". we are looking rot the calcium, magnesium and ammonia components.
Ok awesome. I’m in a small town and don’t think that info is available online from what I’ve looked before but will look into again. I do know that ph is 8.4 and between 200-300ppm. It comes out of tap at 7.2 but after sitting levels to 8.4 all the time. Tested many times for growing and my aquariums. I awesome have a RO unit and Dan use RO water if that is better. My first grow I found I like cutting it 50/50 RO and tap. Brought it to about 150ppm. I’m not afraid to use straight RO and added my own cal mag and nutes if that’s possible? What ever you think is best you know way more then me. :worship:
 
Yes you can grow with the one part but forget all of the stuff you have accept the one part and some Epsom Salt.

Which version of the Mega Crop do you have?

What is your starting water source and PPM? If you are on municipal water get the water quality report from online. We want to know the information in the "Hardness section" and "Sanitation Section". we are looking rot the calcium, magnesium and ammonia components.
I believe it’s the latest version 9-6-17npk
 

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@Mañ'O'Green is the man on this stuff, so follow his advice. One part MC will do fine, and starting at something like 200ppm (from nutes only, this does not include the PPMs from your water) sounds pretty well in the ballpark to me. The main thing you can do is not overfeed, and not mess up your nutrient ratios with add ons.

As MOG suggests, mix up your MC to full strength, and then dilute it back with straight water to the PPM that you want to use. If your MC still has the white balls in it, it is best to mix up at least a few gallons to make sure you are using enough of the powder mix to get the intended ratio of the parts. Small samples of the mix can vary wildly from what is intended because the balls tend to separate from the rest of the mix.

Diluting your tap water with RO to a maximum of 150 ppm is a good idea, and I would probably take it lower. 150 ppm is still on the high side to avoid problems, at least that is the informed opinion on Cocoforcannabis.com, and the crew that runs that site knows their coco. If you have not done so already, have a look at that site, there is a lot of good information there for coco growers.

Good luck with it. :pighug:
 
Yes you can grow with the one part but forget all of the stuff you have accept the one part and some Epsom Salt.

Which version of the Mega Crop do you have?

What is your starting water source and PPM? If you are on municipal water get the water quality report from online. We want to know the information in the "Hardness section" and "Sanitation Section". we are looking rot the calcium, magnesium and ammonia components.
This what I can find not sure what that means.
 

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This what I can find not sure what that means.
There is no useful information in that water report. As discussed above you should blend your water down to 150 PPM. Then use this blend for the entire grow. It keeps the nutrient balance in the middle of the desired ranges. When the stretch is ove and flowering has started in earnest give a little P-K boost at least once a week add kelp, humic acid, and other bennies.

2021-10-26_17-22-16.jpg


Like mentioned above 3g /gallon is a small sample so mix the largest volume you can. Measure this on a gram scale it is that important to be precise.
 
There is no useful information in that water report. As discussed above you should blend your water down to 150 PPM. Then use this blend for the entire grow. It keeps the nutrient balance in the middle of the desired ranges. When the stretch is ove and flowering has started in earnest give a little P-K boost at least once a week add kelp, humic acid, and other bennies.

View attachment 1381932

Like mentioned above 3g /gallon is a small sample so mix the largest volume you can. Measure this on a gram scale it is that important to be precise.
I can’t thank you enough. That is above and beyond. Couple more questions lol. Start using that solution as is day 1 for seedling or dilute that down more to start and gradually work towards that. And this might be a dumb question but how do I measure liquid calmag in grams? Can I just add the 74.42 ppm per gallon that the chart says? Is the epsom salt part of the entire grow or is that the PK booster you talk about l. I sorry to be a pain but this is the only place I trust the advice. Other sites I get guys like me answering my questions and lead me in the wrong direction.
 
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I can’t thank you enough. That is above and beyond. Couple more questions lol. Start using that solution as is day 1 for seedling or dilute that down more to start and gradually work towards that. And this might be a dumb question but how do I measure liquid calmag in grams? Can I just add the 74.42 ppm per gallon that the chart says? Is the epsom salt part of the entire grow or is that the PK booster you talk about l. I sorry to be a pain but this is the only place I trust the advice. Other sites I get guys like me answering my questions and lead me in the wrong direction.
Start by making up at least a gallon of full strength nutrient ~ 722PPM with your starting water at 150 PPM. Now take a gallon of RO/Distilled water and mix the nutrient solution in until the PPM is ~150. The reason you must use RO/Di is because the calcium will go out of range if you add more from your base water. Now add a little kelp and then PH slowly to 5.8 so you do not overshoot it. Use that from seed to first true leaves. Up the PPM to 300 for the next week then full PPM.

Yes that is exactly correct. measure how much it takes to raise a gallon of RO/Di to ~75 PPM and that will be your measure.

Epsom is providing Mg and S that is missing in the low dose nutrient mix we use for autos. Yes you use it for the entire grow.

If you mix MC for photoperiod plants at much higher PPMs then the product provides nearly enough Mg and S without Epsom.

Bud Explosion is a P-K booster When the plants look like this you want to give a mild boost.

Start Flower Nutrients.jpg
 
Start by making up at least a gallon of full strength nutrient ~ 722PPM with your starting water at 150 PPM. Now take a gallon of RO/Distilled water and mix the nutrient solution in until the PPM is ~150. The reason you must use RO/Di is because the calcium will go out of range if you add more from your base water. Now add a little kelp and then PH slowly to 5.8 so you do not overshoot it. Use that from seed to first true leaves. Up the PPM to 300 for the next week then full PPM.

Yes that is exactly correct. measure how much it takes to raise a gallon of RO/Di to ~75 PPM and that will be your measure.

Epsom is providing Mg and S that is missing in the low dose nutrient mix we use for autos. Yes you use it for the entire grow.

If you mix MC for photoperiod plants at much higher PPMs then the product provides nearly enough Mg and S without Epsom.

Bud Explosion is a P-K booster When the plants look like this you want to give a mild boost.

View attachment 1381953
Ok perfect I think got it. Nutes all mixed 5gal full strength. Diluting down a gallon at a time as needed as needed and PHing it to 5.9-5.8. Coco is all buffered I think. Washed pot with diluted nutes till ppm was below 300ppm. Planted seed and time will tell. Thank you.
I don’t have any kelp do you think the real growers recharge would do the same or should I get kelp and humic acid? What brands would you recommend if so? I found this stuff and it’s the same brand as my ph up and down would that be ok?
also I have a soil grow going as well about to start feeding in the next couple weeks. And am curious if the feed regiment you sent would work in that as well?
 

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I use the 2 part mega crop in mother earth coco. I have to add additional calmag with mine or I get calcium deficiencies.

The 'Part-B' bag is Calcium Nitrate. I think that's much better to treat Calcium def in stead of Cal/mag. Which also has Magnesium Sulfate in it. :thumbsup:
 
The 'Part-B' bag is Calcium Nitrate. I think that's much better to treat Calcium def in stead of Cal/mag. Which also has Magnesium Sulfate in it. :thumbsup:
I believe that the OP is using the one part MCIII, not the two part. Would not be my choice any more either, but it works well for lots of growers. :pighug:
 
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