Seedlings looking droopy (Day #7) and wanting to start nutes (1st timer)

[theBroGro]

Hey guys,
I'm so thrilled with this first grow already, I'm seeing and learning things every day! This forum has been a goldmine of information. Please keep on being awesome

So here are my girls. 2x RQS Sherbert queen, 11l (3gal fabric pots). Day #7 since popping out of soil, 6-7cm tall.


#1

#2

They are doing this weird reverse U shape or droop, What is that about? Top leaves are reaching up and are lighter green (though that might be because new growth?) Do they look a little stunted or stretchy? Stems seem a little purple too..

I am growing in soilless soil (T.A lightmix, has light nutrients, NPK 6-3-4, 2Kg/m3, pH 5,5-6,5)
I have a ultrasonic humidifier, keeping humidity between 50-60%.
Got a fan, temps are around 22.9-24.2C and girls have a little wiggle to them from the airflow.
Mars Hydro TS1000 Light is at 22" and 100%, on 24h/7.
80cm x 80 cm x 180cm tent.

I've given my gals only light watering (pH'd to 6.0-6.5, have soft tap water) the top with a pump mist in circles when it's been bone dry 2-3 inches or more down.
Last given light top drizzle 24 hours ago.
Top soil dries fast. Like 12-24 hours fast. I've resisted the urge to constantly water, or micromanage them.
Given very light amounts, 0.5-1dl, maybe less, just to moisten the top soil every 24 hours (depends how dry it feels, no less than 20hours between)
3 days ago I gave around 2dl each, including a mixture of Advanced Nutrients Voodoo juice, Piranha and carbo load, as instructed (0,5ml each for 0.5l)
Last watering to runoff (was about 10%, pH 6.5) 72 hours ago. I've been lifting them, trying my finger and embarrassingly even pulled out my watering meter (to keep me from doing anything stupid) and I'd say they are on the lighter, drier side now.

I was wanting to start nutes like in the next 24-48 hours and water them to run off again.
I've got T.A TriPart Gro, Bloom, Micro (soft water), same as GH lineup. I was thinking of starting with 1/3rd of the amount, with the soil chart.

Am I good to go or is this a sign of something like over/under watering, not enough nutes or root rot?
Regardless, I'm having a lot of fun. Can't remember last time I was so into a hobby!

Last pictures are of day 6. I'm keeping book and taking pics daily. Planning on doing a diary at some point.


PS. My new baby Dutch Passion Critical Orange Punch auto (Day 1) saying Hi to the world and you guys!

She will be getting a Maxsisun MF1000 right next to the other girls.


EDIT: made more readable & forgot last top soil moistening (0.5dl or less) 24 hours ago.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Your seedlings look fine. Lower your lights or turn them up as the top two are stretching a bit.

What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and the roots and microbes will die there. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. There is an art to watering.

Don't kill your plants with kindness. Sometimes the best thing to do is give them a healthy dose of LITFA.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

You are feeding wrong and too soon. You need to understand Balanced nutrients.

Tutorial - A word on Nutrients

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis. Salts: Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based...

www.autoflower.org

 

[theBroGro]

You are feeding wrong and too soon. You need to understand Balanced nutrients.

Tutorial - A word on Nutrients

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis. Salts: Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based...

www.autoflower.org

Hey again, thank you for being vigilant! I'm definitely trying to master LIFT now, but not great at it yet..

I am feeding, wrong and too soon, do you mean I shouldn't moisten the top layer but j just I should just let it dry more?
I've not used any nutrients yet (besides the root bacteria). I read your Nute thread, very useful information, but I lack EC meter (will get one this week)
So.. no nutrients yet and just stick to the lift?

Can anyone tell me to just stop misting the top even if it gets dry couple inches down and wait, if that is the mistake. The soil has barely any nutes from what their website claims.

 

[Drownomatic]

No nutes until the cotyledon leaves fall off. These contain all the nutes it initially needs.

 

[theBroGro]

No nutes until the cotyledon leaves fall off. These contain all the nutes it initially needs.

Wait, really, how have I missed this information? I will do more research on that..

Sorry if I bother you guys with the stupidest questions, just don't know who else to ask.


Edit. Light is now at 20"

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

The nutrients in the pot should be good for the first week to two weeks. The plant does not need much to get started.

If you do not water the entire pot when it needs it by just spraying the top you will get the soil hydrophobic and you will have problems with the grow. Remember you are keeping the Microbes alive and happy not just the plant.

No nutes until the cotyledon leaves fall off. These contain all the nutes it initially needs.

This is incorrect information. If you wait for the cotyledons to turn yellow you have waited too long to feed. In nature the plant starts to get nutrients from the soil as soon as the lateral root hairs form. This is in just a couple of days from germination.