PLZ Help- Bright Orange Spots appearing on Fan Leaves

[Julian]

Thanks for the info. Both Feedings were with Distilled water and Nutrients, so the runoff that was measured was the runoff of the (Distilled + Nutrient solution) The second feeding was the exact same, but I upped the ph to 7.0 . Yes the AN nutes self adjust the solution to 5.5 and then I upped it to 6.5 on the first feeding. Second feeding I upped it to 7.0 ph In order to try to increase the ph of the runoff. I only use distilled water for nutrient feedings. For the days of water only, I use spring water -(ppm: 130 & 6.3-6.5ph)
Maybe you are right about the runoff not being a good indication, especially when using nutrients. The last time I tested the runoff , which was the runoff of just plain spring water given at 6.5 ph, the runoff only dropped to 6.1-6.3 for all 6 plants. So maybe the nutrients, with the combination of distilled water, significantly affected the ph runoff.
IDK THANKS FOR THE INFO THO

 

[Waira]

AN should do a better job on that pH, unless your pH meter is not calibrated recently, and/or stored in the right solution?,.. dry bulbs, using RO/DI water for storage will damage the electrodes functionality,... I am positive about the run-off not being a good measure, make no mistake there! Anything that affects true pH will skew results, basic chemistry,... get an Accurate 8 soil pH probe for in-pot pH readings, no more guessing!

 

[Olde School Player]

Everything Waira said! Only thing I can think to add is that Cal-Mag deficiencies usually show up first on the portions of the plant that are receiving the most light. Usually not the newest growth, and usually not the oldest (until it becomes extreme). With the soil mix you are using, and distilled water, you should be using at least 5mL / Gal. of cal-mag supplements.
And I second the motion, that's a shit ton of lighting unless your tent is a monster??? And the 450W LED, is that at-the-wall rated or some silly claim of HID equivalent?
Purified water and inert soil mixes will cause more problems than they solve until you get a good hand on additives. So pH and ppm of your tap water might indicate that is a better solution for your grow than purified. Unless you specifically know there is something in your water tap water you're afraid of? You're not near Chernobyl are you?

 

[Julian]

AN should do a better job on that pH, unless your pH meter is not calibrated recently, and/or stored in the right solution?,.. dry bulbs, using RO/DI water for storage will damage the electrodes functionality,... I am positive about the run-off not being a good measure, make no mistake there! Anything that affects true pH will skew results, basic chemistry,... get an Accurate 8 soil pH probe for in-pot pH readings, no more guessing!

I read your improved runoff method, and I did a proper runoff test yesterday.The ph that went in was 7.0 , and the runoff dropped to 6.0 , Which was the about the same difference as last time. Do you suggest that I continue to water/feed with a ph of 7.0-7.4 , or do I need to flush?

 

[Julian]

Everything Waira said! Only thing I can think to add is that Cal-Mag deficiencies usually show up first on the portions of the plant that are receiving the most light. Usually not the newest growth, and usually not the oldest (until it becomes extreme). With the soil mix you are using, and distilled water, you should be using at least 5mL / Gal. of cal-mag supplements.
And I second the motion, that's a shit ton of lighting unless your tent is a monster??? And the 450W LED, is that at-the-wall rated or some silly claim of HID equivalent?
Purified water and inert soil mixes will cause more problems than they solve until you get a good hand on additives. So pH and ppm of your tap water might indicate that is a better solution for your grow than purified. Unless you specifically know there is something in your water tap water you're afraid of? You're not near Chernobyl are you?

Im using ViparSpectra 450w , the true wattage is like 235 or something. Are you saying that my nutrients should be upped to (5 ml/ G) of calmag , Or that I should add that in addition to the AN schedule that Im following.
I only use distilled water when im using nutrients, And I just read that chlorine is in the tap water, yea i could leave it out for 24 hours and all that.. ppm of tap is 230... So I just decided to go with spring water in between feedings,.

Here is my current schedule for this week

I Feed twice A week, that is why the weekly total is divided by two.
Week 5 of Flower - ( 3/4 Strength Nutes)

Total Nutes: (3 ml/L) Sensi Bloom A + (3 ml/L) Sensi Bloom B + (1.5 ml/L) Sensizym
+ (1.5 ml/L) Rhino-skin + (1.5 ml/L) Big Bud + (1.5 ml/L) Bud Factor + (1.5 ml/ L) CalMag + (2 ml/L) Overdrive

April 12→ (Day 54) Day 25 of Flower-
April 13→ (Day 55) Day 26 of Flower- Distilled water +Nutes : (1.5 ml/L) Sensi Bloom A + (1.5 ml/L) Sensi Bloom B + (0.80 ml/L) Sensizym + (0.80 ml/L) Rhino-skin + (0.80 ml/L) Big Bud + (0.80 ml/L) Bud Factor + (0.80 ml/ L) CalMag + (1 ml/L) Overdrive
---
April 14→ (Day 56) Day 27 of Flower- (WEEK 8 IN TOTAL ON THIS DAY)
April 15→ (Day 57) Day 28 of Flower-
April 16→ (Day 58) Day 29 of Flower- Spring Water
April 17→(Day 59) Day 30 of Flower-
April 18→(Day 60) Day 31 of Flower- Distilled Water +Nutes: (1.5 ml/L) Sensi Bloom A + (1.5 ml/L) Sensi Bloom B + (0.80 ml/L) Sensizym + (0.80 ml/L) Rhino-skin + (0.80 ml/L) Big Bud + (0.80 ml/L) Bud Factor + (0.80 ml/ L) CalMag + (1 ml/L) Overdrive
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[Olde School Player]

I meant a minimum of 5mL per gallon cal-mag added to any purified / RO water before adding other supplements. If you're at 1.5mL per liter of cal-mag that's good.
Spring water in between feedings is a good plan, albeit expensive. 250ppm tap water indicates it has a healthy amount of cal-mag in all likelihood. Chlorine really is over-rated for ill cause to plants, especially since it will evaporate simply by allowing it to sit out for 24 hours. Goes even faster if aerated. My only caution to using tap water is to first confirm that it has not been softened. Either through an in-home ion exchange water softener (salt based) or by your water utility; some municipalities will pre-soften water before sending it through the system to your home. But traditional hard water is actually good for your plants.

 

[Olde School Player]

hey J'-- ...check out the improved run0off test method in the highlighted section above this one,...

@Waira I looked for this but not seeing it, interested in giving it a read. can you map me to where this is located? Thanks Bro.

 

[Waira]

.....OSP mate, when you go to Sick Bay, you'll see the yellow highlighted (sticky article" section,.. in in there "another quickie reference for run-off testing and pH estimation".....

Julian, roger that! Thanks for doing it, I think according to that estimation you're in the low 5's pH very likely,... enough to warrant a flush IMO,.. start with 7.0 pHwater + Ca-Mg, adjusted after you add Ca-Mg, and after it has sat for 10 min or so to react,... try 2x pot volume first, but check pH after the first pot's volumes' worth has gone through to mark progress,.. or if you're lucky, quite! At the end, final couple L of pour, add about half strength nutes into it,...don't want to kick off other crap! You can facilitate faster draining (after free drain has stopped) by setting the pots on paper towels and a small stack of newspaper; this will wick the excess away nicely, just make sure the drainage hole are in contact with the 'towels,... check after a half hour to see how saturated the paper is, and change if soaked,....Run this flush in under 20 min, we want to avoid smothering (O2 starving) the roots!