Ph pen recommendation

[bad dragon bzzz]

What Is Removed From Deionized vs. Distilled Water?
When it comes to distilled water vs. deionized water, both are very pure. In each case, however, the purity of the water before it goes through the water treatment makes a difference. The deionization process, for example, only removes ions – charged non-organic particles – from the water. The water should be filtered first to remove organic material, and additional filtering with a reverse osmosis (RO) system will remove a significant number of additional contaminants. This leaves only a small amount of ionized minerals for the DI system to remove.

Water distillation, on the other hand, can remove more impurities than just ions. This process removes nearly all minerals, many chemicals, and most bacteria. That doesn't mean that it removes everything, however, especially if the water contains volatile organics and certain other contaminants. These impurities will evaporate and stay in the distilled water. As with deionized water, pre-treatment filtering is an important step.

Deionized Water vs. Distilled – Uses
Since both treatment methods produce high purity water, choosing between deionized water vs. distilled water often depends on how you're using it. Distilled water is often more pure, especially if it's been filtered first, and it should not contain any bacteria or other pathogens which could, in theory, be left in DI water. Distilled water, especially if it's been double or triple distilled, can be used for nearly all laboratory applications, including those in which DI water might not be pure enough.

That said, deionized water is a good option for many uses, including cooling applications, many laboratory uses, pharmaceutical industries, and more. Unless very high purity water is required, deionized water is often a better alternative because it can be made more quickly and for less money.
:smoking:not my words.....obviously like
keep er lit

 

[idiopathic neuropathy]

i think the rinsing before/after use is,technically to get a more acurate reading in theory.but as it goes to 2 decimal places its acurate enough
i have to be honest and say a run under the tap before use is what i do.but i try my best to keep the lid topped up with storage solution.
de ionized water is pretty pure,the + ions have been removed.distilled water has been boiled and condensed,in theory a smidge cleaner than de ionized water.
pinch of salt... de onized will do
good luck n keep er lit

Hi guys ----Just to be very clear ---here is a couple of qoutes and info. that I gathered from Hanna's website and spoke to Hanna' tech. support the other day because i ran into a couple ph problems with a cheap pen and had to borrow my sons Hanna 9813-6

and did not have all the solutions which I needed asap and if you buy all the Hanna solutions, they can get expensive.
---
Can I use Distilled or Deionized water to store my pH electrode?

No, never use this for storage it will damage the electrode.

What should I store my pH electrode in?

Ideally, storage solution since it has the same chemical make-up of what is in the electrode itself, but if that is not available use buffer 4 or 7 solution. NEVER STORE IN PURE (DISTILLED) WATER!!! In the case of electrodes that are continuously immersed, storage is not an issue since they are constantly wet

I do not have the HI70300 storage solution. What else could I use?

You can use your pH 4 buffer. Just place a few drops of that inside the cap to keep the electrode moist


Tech support said that it is not required to use their solutions. You can use others just be aware that quality control may not be the same as their solutions.

 

[Sqwirlman]

I’ve got the Bluelab and it works fine. The conductivity meter too. I’ve also got the cheap yellow ones.

I discovered after forking out the cash for the Bluelab that they’ll all go funky on you if you don’t take care of it. Keeping it clean and wet etc. I calibrate once a month but it hasn’t needed it yet.

If I was going to do it over, I would have maintained my pair of cheap yellow ones and bought another COB instead of the Bluelab. Or a par meter.

I agree with you. I also have blue labs pH pen and there ppm truncheon meter. Keep them clean and calibrated and you are good to go. Make sure you store the pH pen using the kcl storage solution also.

 

[AutoWonders]

I discovered after forking out the cash for the Bluelab that they’ll all go funky on you if you don’t take care of it.

Even if calibrated religiously, they still go bad. My Bluelabs drift became downright terrible. I've been using Apera meters for a while and at least they have replaceable probes which is great.

 

[Bazeldon]

I ended up with an apera and have been more than happy with it no problems so far.