Indoor OG Kush, Narcotherapy, and Sweet Soma hydro grow

I thought the Lucas was the three part liquid. Grow, bloom, and micro but it might be something else. Maxi crop is a complete two part dry nute line from GH. Just make sure to do a half and half blend of grow and bloom during early bloom. Many people want to take the nitrogen away before she has finished growing in stature. I do use a TDS meter. I prefer a reading of 1100 for most of the grow. Starting with a 440 or so for my hard SoCal water. I used to use reverse osmosis water exclusively, but when I tried tap water I had better results. I also think all the extra calcium helps the plant. I use pure 85% phosphoric acid for ph down. That is a chelate, it will break the large bonds of calcium down into absorb-able sizes. Ph pens are a no go for me. They do not hold calibration enough for me to trust the readings, so I stick with the old reliable ph drops that change color. Ph pens can give you a different reading every time you check a solution in a one hour span.
 
@budelee the way I know I am getting better, is when I find myself doing less to get more. The more I get out of my gear and plants way the better they can perform. Learning the exact right time to do something is a big sign as well. Knowing just when to start bloom boosters, or move the lights up to stimulate a strong stretch are the things the grower should be focused on. Just try to be the best mother nature you can be is my thinking. That also means killing sometimes too. Do not be reluctant to kill a strange or slow plant. Those are always the first to get an infection and jeopardize the others.
 
It all makes sense,,oops let me rephrase that,it's starting to make sense.my ph pen was out .3 high when I had it checked,I bought the solutions to cal it myself.i didn't do too bad using Lucas and the drop kit,in coco the ph is lower than soil so the "yellow range + some down was good for me,and when checked with the pen,the Lucas brings the ph right where it needed to be,the ppm are a little high cause it's meant for photos..anyway ,learning more with each post,Thanks!!!
 
I think the idea that autos need less fertilizer than photos is not true. I have seen that it is light intensity and fresh air, that determines the level of nutrients. The higher my ppm rating, the closer I can take the light without burning. Sort of like a person working out, you need more nutrition to keep up with the fast growth of new mass. There has not been much difference between autos and photos to me. Autos are just faster, preprogrammed on growth stages, and less forgiving. If you mess up a stage with an auto, they have no time to catch up in yield later. Sort of like a drag race to me.
 
Now that makes perfect sense,last summer I had a greenhouse grow and the plants were taking 1500ppm per day everyday,while the indoor plants were using way less,my plants now are getting about 1400 but that includes the water ppm of 220.i had done some reading in the nutrient forum and what they talk about matches the profile of your base nutes almost exactly ,I see why/how your plants do really good,mine are okay at best,I did multiple fim one plant and have more bud sites than I wanna count,if I could pack the size and weight into them it would be a monster,once I get better with the nutes I'm shooting for the 1lb plant club...peace!!
 
This evening they look good.
WP_20160209_22_32_42_Pro[1].jpg
 
@budelee what type of light do you use, and what strength? The ppm being at 1500 sounds high to me. I have had issues with burns when going over 1300 ppm in coco coir. You might want to back it down to a 1000-1200. I have twice as hard of water that you do too, 440. Give it a try, and let me know if it improves your growing. I usually start seedling on a 700 or less, then work up to 1100 over the next few weeks.
 
Those were the plants in the sunlight/greenhouse,I use 600 HPS/mh ... My inside plants get less..how do you account for the water ppm or does it not matter,
 
Yield lab. What do you guys think about the 1000w kits they have? With the air cool hoods any good or na
 
You need to use the starting water tds rating as your baseline or zero. I say anything under 100 counts as zero, that is very pure water. Then I count from there. I think of my 440 water as a 300. Your 220 would be a 100 in my thinking.
 
Back
Top