Nute deficiency?

:toke:Hi DC - ..as you're in Promix, feeding should start within a week since it's poorly amended, by design,... symptoms look mild, fairly generic, likely from light starvation after 20+ days... low laying leaf could also have a little fungal attack too, or maybe a P defc. spot,.... Your water should be left out to dechlorinate (double check with the water Co' to see if it's treated with chloramine, which will not gas off!),..With organics, it's all about the soil microbes, so you should get an inoculant of some kind! I also recommend an enzyme product to help with breakdown and nute turn-over in the pot,... With the nutes, there's no need to pH down, unless you water is very hard/high pH, in which case, you should blend it with RO/Di/drinking water to reduce the ppm's it has,... can you get me pH on your water? Also, the harsh chemical pH adjusters are brutal on the soil microbes, and usually, aren't needed for organics,.. if anything, citric acid (canning supply) can be used as a pH down for water id really needed, it'll depend on the hardness of the water, in part,... If you don't have one yet, and inexpensive TDS meter is an important tool to have at hand; this and pH will tell you much about your tap water that is important to know,..... keep feeding her, and look into inoculants (Recharge is getting a lot of good feedback,... not cheap, but less than the top name stuff, and it goes a long way),....hte soil herd is what breaks nutes down into absorbable forms, and cycles them around in the pot,....
 
:toke:Hi DC - ..as you're in Promix, feeding should start within a week since it's poorly amended, by design,... symptoms look mild, fairly generic, likely from light starvation after 20+ days... low laying leaf could also have a little fungal attack too, or maybe a P defc. spot,.... Your water should be left out to dechlorinate (double check with the water Co' to see if it's treated with chloramine, which will not gas off!),..With organics, it's all about the soil microbes, so you should get an inoculant of some kind! I also recommend an enzyme product to help with breakdown and nute turn-over in the pot,... With the nutes, there's no need to pH down, unless you water is very hard/high pH, in which case, you should blend it with RO/Di/drinking water to reduce the ppm's it has,... can you get me pH on your water? Also, the harsh chemical pH adjusters are brutal on the soil microbes, and usually, aren't needed for organics,.. if anything, citric acid (canning supply) can be used as a pH down for water id really needed, it'll depend on the hardness of the water, in part,... If you don't have one yet, and inexpensive TDS meter is an important tool to have at hand; this and pH will tell you much about your tap water that is important to know,..... keep feeding her, and look into inoculants (Recharge is getting a lot of good feedback,... not cheap, but less than the top name stuff, and it goes a long way),....hte soil herd is what breaks nutes down into absorbable forms, and cycles them around in the pot,....

hi Waira! i'm still saving up on a pH pen unfortunatly. so idk my waters pH, but next feeding i'm def airing out the water, and are you suggesting I feed her again? Last time I watered, I fed (June 1st), and I see what your saying about the pH down, I guess I just don't really know how to get it to take up the nutes I'm giving. I'll start looking up enzyme products, any particular brands you meant (I'm also gonna attach the damage today, it's looking a tad worse)

Thank you!
 

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Mammoth P is is a good enzyme product and a little goes along way.
 
Mammoth P is is a good enzyme product and a little goes along way.
Sorry to make a correction. But Mammoth P is a microbial inoculant product for bloom phase use, not an enzyme product.
 
Sorry to make a correction. But Mammoth P is a microbial inoculant product for bloom phase use, not an enzyme product.

This is from there website

Beneficial Bacteria

Our beneficial bacteria act like micro bioreactors, continually producing enzymes that release nutrients. (Reduces the need for a separate enzyme additive)

Mammoth P can and is used from seedlings right through to Bud stage to get an over all increase of up to 16% bigger plants
IMG_5624.JPG

I just go by what i read on there site my man @BII
 
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:biggrin:... well, a cheap liquid drops kit will suffice,... yeah, keep feeding her! Organics take a bit longer to get in there, for reasons mentioned above,..... new pics still look mostly P defc. to me,... are you adding Ca-Mg+ in as well?
Enzymes help break down organic matter,... Hygrozyme, Canna Biozyme are good representative products,... they have several enzymes in them that help tackle more slow/difficult matter in there, which helps the rest of the soil herd do their job, which in turn benefits the plants! ...Mammoth P is fantastic stuff, but it's not an enzyme product (sorry brudda Fairly!), it's a specialized brew of microbes that focuses on P and micronute turnover and availability, different from the usual myco's and other beneficial bacteria's in other inoculants,...

A TDS meter is only about $10,... decent pH meters about $30-50, cheaper ones are around, but are dubious for accuracy after a while,.. good meters are sensitive instruments, and need proper care...storage solution, and calibration solutions 7.0 and 4.0,.. some come with calibration soln., and storage is readily available too, not expensive,... storing them right is KEY,... dry electrodes will cause bad readings and eventually ruin them,... I also highly recommend the Accurate 8 soil pH probe, for actual in-pot pH measurements, nothing beats this (run-off testing is crap usually).. I know this all sounds $$, and confusing, a PITA too,.. but you can avoid so many problems right off the bat by monitoring your water and nute soln. inputs, so the soil doesn't get out of proper pH range to begin with,... fixing off-pH soil is a real beating, costly in time labor and sometimes products,...and more importantly, plant health.. stunting, crap yields, makes some grows a waste of time and $$!
Another fine alternative to consider is Mephisto/GBD's super soil mix for auto's,.. all you do is buy a good base soil (like Roots Organic), mix in the super amendments, fill half the pot with it, top with reg soil on that, and it's water only from there! Sometimes, you may need a little boost of something, usually P-K during bloom, but that's very conditional, many don't need it,...lots of fine grows here using this simple KISS system! All I'd add to that is a Si supplement, enzymes, kelp extract, and have Ca-Mg handy just in case,...:greenthumb:
 
:biggrin:... well, a cheap liquid drops kit will suffice,... yeah, keep feeding her! Organics take a bit longer to get in there, for reasons mentioned above,..... new pics still look mostly P defc. to me,... are you adding Ca-Mg+ in as well?
Enzymes help break down organic matter,... Hygrozyme, Canna Biozyme are good representative products,... they have several enzymes in them that help tackle more slow/difficult matter in there, which helps the rest of the soil herd do their job, which in turn benefits the plants! ...Mammoth P is fantastic stuff, but it's not an enzyme product (sorry brudda Fairly!), it's a specialized brew of microbes that focuses on P and micronute turnover and availability, different from the usual myco's and other beneficial bacteria's in other inoculants,...

A TDS meter is only about $10,... decent pH meters about $30-50, cheaper ones are around, but are dubious for accuracy after a while,.. good meters are sensitive instruments, and need proper care...storage solution, and calibration solutions 7.0 and 4.0,.. some come with calibration soln., and storage is readily available too, not expensive,... storing them right is KEY,... dry electrodes will cause bad readings and eventually ruin them,... I also highly recommend the Accurate 8 soil pH probe, for actual in-pot pH measurements, nothing beats this (run-off testing is crap usually).. I know this all sounds $$, and confusing, a PITA too,.. but you can avoid so many problems right off the bat by monitoring your water and nute soln. inputs, so the soil doesn't get out of proper pH range to begin with,... fixing off-pH soil is a real beating, costly in time labor and sometimes products,...and more importantly, plant health.. stunting, crap yields, makes some grows a waste of time and $$!
Another fine alternative to consider is Mephisto/GBD's super soil mix for auto's,.. all you do is buy a good base soil (like Roots Organic), mix in the super amendments, fill half the pot with it, top with reg soil on that, and it's water only from there! Sometimes, you may need a little boost of something, usually P-K during bloom, but that's very conditional, many don't need it,...lots of fine grows here using this simple KISS system! All I'd add to that is a Si supplement, enzymes, kelp extract, and have Ca-Mg handy just in case,...:greenthumb:
Thanks Waria So this statement by mammoth P means you could reduce your intake of a enzyme product such as Hygrozyme to like half but you still need it. I took it the wrong way. Mammoth P says this and it makes you feel like you do not really need a enzyme additive but I digress it does say Reduces the need not you do not need. (Our beneficial bacteria act like micro bioreactors, continually producing enzymes that release nutrients. Reduces the need for a separate enzyme additive.) When they say continually produces enzymes it makes me feel like I do not need to have a zyme product. But I read it wrong I am going to have to add sensizym that is what I have I was wrong thanks again my man.
 
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