Beerhunter CDN
Breaker of Colas
A decent meter should come with storage solution, if not, it’s cheap. From what I know, you don’t want to let your pH pen dry up but check the manual for sure.
Nute burn or ph issues
- Thread starter Smokingjallday
- Start date
M
Machamillion
Guest
I keep mine in distilled water while tent is in use.
Just thought I'd drop in with my opinion and advice. I've read over all of the posts and have a decent understanding of the situation. The first thing I will say is that you are dealing with multiple issues, and pin pointing the exact cause or root of those issues may not be easy.
The first thing I noticed is that these issues have either been going on for a while, or they spread really fast. Neither is a good thing. I see what looks to be nitorgen, iron and/or mag deficiencies or lockout. The yellowing looks like late stages of an iron deficiency, but could also be lack of nitrogen.. It could also be both.. The brown rust spots, dead, brown leaves at the bottom look like a mag deficiency. How and why this happened? That's the thought part. Too much of one nutrient can lock out others, and vice versa, so it's a real delicate balancing act. Some nutrients are "mobile".. Which means if a leaf/branch needs nitrogen (mobile), it can pull or move nitrogen from one place in the soil/plant, to where its needed. But if a branch or leaf needs iron (immobile), it will be deficient until you add iron through a foliar spray or by adding more to the soil. If those nutrients are present in the soil but the plant isn't taking them in, you'll need to fix the "lockout".
When your using a "pro" soiless medium, there is much less room for error, as it's assuming the user is a pro. That usually means that the medium has about enough food/organic matter to last maybe a week or so depending on the plant.. After that, it's 100% on the grower to feed the right amounts of everything it needs, and at the right times. I looked at the feeding charts for bio bizz.. Most of them say that the 1ml/l for grow applies when you are in an amended soil. If you are in soiless, it shows that the number varies by week, and starts at 2ml/l. By week 7 it says you should be feeding grow at 4ml/l. For bloom, it shows to start at 1ml/l and goes up to 3ml/l by week 7. Same with Alg-a-mic.. The chart shows 3ml/l by week 7..You stated that you're still at 1ml/l for grow and alg.. and 2ml/l bloom. If so, sounds/looks like they were being way under fed for a while. And by the looks of the leaves, they should have been showing signs of this week's ago. You will want to address issues as soon as you see them! Yellowing, tip curling, brown spotting ect.. Plants tell you everything you need to know if you watch them. You'll want to learn to read the plants, and not the back of bottled nutes. Every plant is different. They will grow and feed differently. Feeding two plant the exact same way will get you two different results. Growing in soiless mediums requires you to know all of the signs and symptoms of any possible issues.. And when they start to show up, you will have little to no room for error, and no time to wait to address it.
I dont think ph is your issue here. This looks to be underfeeding, or some sort of nutrient lock out. Your best bet this late in the game would be to flush and start feeding closer to the suggested feed level.
You wont be able to correct or fix any of the damage that is already visible.. But the goal now should be to stop the issues from spreading any further and keeping the green leaves green.
The first thing I noticed is that these issues have either been going on for a while, or they spread really fast. Neither is a good thing. I see what looks to be nitorgen, iron and/or mag deficiencies or lockout. The yellowing looks like late stages of an iron deficiency, but could also be lack of nitrogen.. It could also be both.. The brown rust spots, dead, brown leaves at the bottom look like a mag deficiency. How and why this happened? That's the thought part. Too much of one nutrient can lock out others, and vice versa, so it's a real delicate balancing act. Some nutrients are "mobile".. Which means if a leaf/branch needs nitrogen (mobile), it can pull or move nitrogen from one place in the soil/plant, to where its needed. But if a branch or leaf needs iron (immobile), it will be deficient until you add iron through a foliar spray or by adding more to the soil. If those nutrients are present in the soil but the plant isn't taking them in, you'll need to fix the "lockout".
When your using a "pro" soiless medium, there is much less room for error, as it's assuming the user is a pro. That usually means that the medium has about enough food/organic matter to last maybe a week or so depending on the plant.. After that, it's 100% on the grower to feed the right amounts of everything it needs, and at the right times. I looked at the feeding charts for bio bizz.. Most of them say that the 1ml/l for grow applies when you are in an amended soil. If you are in soiless, it shows that the number varies by week, and starts at 2ml/l. By week 7 it says you should be feeding grow at 4ml/l. For bloom, it shows to start at 1ml/l and goes up to 3ml/l by week 7. Same with Alg-a-mic.. The chart shows 3ml/l by week 7..You stated that you're still at 1ml/l for grow and alg.. and 2ml/l bloom. If so, sounds/looks like they were being way under fed for a while. And by the looks of the leaves, they should have been showing signs of this week's ago. You will want to address issues as soon as you see them! Yellowing, tip curling, brown spotting ect.. Plants tell you everything you need to know if you watch them. You'll want to learn to read the plants, and not the back of bottled nutes. Every plant is different. They will grow and feed differently. Feeding two plant the exact same way will get you two different results. Growing in soiless mediums requires you to know all of the signs and symptoms of any possible issues.. And when they start to show up, you will have little to no room for error, and no time to wait to address it.
I dont think ph is your issue here. This looks to be underfeeding, or some sort of nutrient lock out. Your best bet this late in the game would be to flush and start feeding closer to the suggested feed level.
You wont be able to correct or fix any of the damage that is already visible.. But the goal now should be to stop the issues from spreading any further and keeping the green leaves green.
Last edited:
Hi thanks for the info my ph meter is slow reading ive seen the tips getting burned so its 2ml of bloom and 1ml grow and 1ml alg a mic it suppose to have calcium and magnesium i do have vitalink calmag and my tap water area is very soft aswel should i switch for calmag instead of algamic
I was even feeding 2 waterings before this one it was showing brown tips at 3ml of grow and 1.5ml algamic and 1.5ml bloom thats where im stuck and think the ph is off after third watering i measured the run off and was low as 5.3 and now its at ph 6 will give her flush and 2mo new hanna meter will arive so need to check the ph im sure thats the problem hopefully thank you for your tips
Ps.. Checking the ph of the run off water is the least realible way to check the ph of the soil.. Ph fluctuates regularly.. It's different at the root zone than it is at that top or bottom. You want to know the ph of the soil.. not the ph of the water that comes out of the soil. It's a last ditch, worse case option.. Your soil has a buffer in it that keeps the ph of the medium in proper range. Wishing you the best!
Similar threads
