Here's a couple pictures when lights were dimmed completely and a couple with lights off, I've watered twice since the last time I commented on this post. First time I watered with the nutrients and measurements from bloom week 2 on the feeding chart, then next day I gave them a foliar of the extreme serene ( 5mls to a liter of water ) PhD it to 6.2 didn't use it all obviously but I sprayed em pretty good a couple hours before lights on. When it was time for the second watering seemed like nothing had changed 2-3 days after watering so next time I had to water I went with bloom week 3 and added everything it said at 100% strength. That was on the 10th, gave them a foliar with the ancient amber about 5 hours ago. Since last watering seems like the leaves aren't getting anymore green but I will add that the ones that are yellow haven't continued dying off daily like they were in the past week. The yellow ones feel just like the greener leaves and seem to be praying up towards the light. If they don't start getting any greener should I just increase the nutrients more next time I feed ? The buds are still coming in decently and have a fair amount of frost on them, also the stem of the plant is turning a dark purpleish color, dunno what that's about.
 

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What was the pH of your foliar feed? You can dial that very low if you want good results. pH 5.0 - 5.5 ;)
 
They look like they are starving with lock-outs as well. There might be a little bit of coloring from genetics but your nutrient application is missing parts and is all out of balance. When you use a multiple part fertilizer program like Roots it is important to keep all of the parts in balance and use all of the parts in the line. Until you learn (I have been learning for years and years and still I am only a grasshopper) a lot about plant nutrition it is best to use only one vendor's products. They are designed to work together in harmony. Adding anything else is like lock-out roulette . It is true that many nutrient lines are too strong for our plants and starting at 50% strength and working up each week by 10% to tip burn then back-off 10% will dial-in the strength for that plant. So what that means is you use 50% of each item down the list on one day then plain PH water the next. If the item has an amount in the column for the week your plant is in it is not optional.
If you are not using all of the products in the list in balance that will cause lock-outs as well as using some other vendor products. I also think the plants may be starving at the level you are feeding.

This chart shows what you are doing and your percentages are all over the place.
View attachment 1219910

There are other components that are not in my chart but you get the picture.

So where to go from here:
Mix a complete in balance Bloom week 2 feeding plus extra for run-off at 100% strength PH to 6.1 including an application of Big Worm if you have it and Fertigate to about 30% run-off. Foliar with Serene. Then when needed water with PHed water 6.1 to 30% run-off. Then when needed move to 100% bloom week 3 PH 6.1 and fertigate to 30% run-off, top feed Uprising Bloom if you have it. Foliar with Ancient Amber. Now when The next water at PH6.1 back off to 5% - 10% run-off from here on out just follow the chart. If you start to see signs of N Toxicity back of to 75% on everything.

Tag me with updates please.

:goodluck:

:vibe:

This conversation helps me a lot fellas. I am about to run my first set of autos indoors and am sto a lil confused. I’m using roots original and have their nute line as well. Am I suppose to mix my RO with another medium? If I just use RO will they burn? Do I add nutes like Schulz suggest with fresh soil? How do I follow the feeding schedule when it is for photos? Any insight is appreciated. Thx
D
 
@Dfernandez290 :welcome:Welcome to AFN:welcome:Lets get you a thread started in the new growers
 
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