Northern cheese haze X sour bubby Day 38, what is this ?

[GreenMersh]

Been having some trouble here lately finding out what's wrong with the leafs on my NCHxSB, some sort of deficiency or lock out or something hell idk. I've been feeding her with the roots organics master pack, last feed was 6mls of the buddah bloom, 5mls of Trinity, 2.5mls of calmag, 3.75mls of ancient amber, and 3.75mls of extreme serein, along with 2.5mls of some seabird and bat guano. Should I just increase the nutes more? In a mixture of 25% roots organic original and the rest was MG seed starter and some perlite. Under 2x kingbrite 240w QB 3500K along with 5 other plants in my 5x5, environment usually stays 78 degrees with humidity constantly around 59. Water has been getting PhD to 6.5/6.4 everytime. Anyone have any suggestions as to what it could be, I also have some dry amendments, grow/foundation/bloom if needed. Thanks

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

@GreenMersh Can you turn off the grow lights and take some pictures in Day Light 5000K color light or flash? In the meantime
Please fill in this form: (copy and paste part is below, this first one tell what specifically to include)

-Problem: (brief description)
-Medium/grow method: soil; soilless-- coco, or peat based like Promix, etc. (please provide the actual product name); DWC, NFT, etc.
-Feed and supplements used: include brand, dosage/strength, frequency of feeding and watering (alone); method-- by hand, drippers, rercirc' or drain-to-waste,... N-P-K #'s too if you can!
-Water source: RO/DI; tap- dechlorinated-?..... EC or TDS reading; pH (don't bother with this on RO/DI, do bother with TDS/EC though to confirm it's working well enough)
-Strain and age
-Climate: night and day ambient T and RH%; res' temperatures; any extremes in T/RH% exposure
- Light used: HID, LED, COB, combo of,... wattage; light cycle hours (20/4, 18/6 , etc.); distance to tops....
-Additional info: PH in the root zone. How long have the plants been affected?...How fast did symptoms appear?... Anything else you think might be relevant..

--Pictures including WHOLE PLANT PICS, and troubled leaves.. use normal light or flash as other light sources ruin color rendering, critical for diagnostics!

✂ - - - - - - - - - - -
(copy and paste)-->

Problem:

Medium/grow method:

Feed: and supplements used:

water source:

Strain/age:

light used:

Climate:

Additional info:

 

[GreenMersh]

@GreenMersh Can you turn off the grow lights and take some pictures in Day Light 5000K color light or flash? In the meantime
Please fill in this form: (copy and paste part is below, this first one tell what specifically to include)

-Problem: (brief description)
-Medium/grow method: soil; soilless-- coco, or peat based like Promix, etc. (please provide the actual product name); DWC, NFT, etc.
-Feed and supplements used: include brand, dosage/strength, frequency of feeding and watering (alone); method-- by hand, drippers, rercirc' or drain-to-waste,... N-P-K #'s too if you can!
-Water source: RO/DI; tap- dechlorinated-?..... EC or TDS reading; pH (don't bother with this on RO/DI, do bother with TDS/EC though to confirm it's working well enough)
-Strain and age
-Climate: night and day ambient T and RH%; res' temperatures; any extremes in T/RH% exposure
- Light used: HID, LED, COB, combo of,... wattage; light cycle hours (20/4, 18/6 , etc.); distance to tops....
-Additional info: PH in the root zone. How long have the plants been affected?...How fast did symptoms appear?... Anything else you think might be relevant..

--Pictures including WHOLE PLANT PICS, and troubled leaves.. use normal light or flash as other light sources ruin color rendering, critical for diagnostics!

✂ - - - - - - - - - - -
(copy and paste)-->

Problem:

Medium/grow method:

Feed: and supplements used:

water source:

Strain/age:

light used:

Climate:

Additional info:

Will have to turn lights off and take more pictures after work, but they honestly look about the same in person anyway.

Problem: Fan leafs discoloration/yellowing all over.

Medium/grow method: 25% Roots organics original the rest is MG seed starter and some perlite. In 3 gallon fabric pots

Feed: and supplements used: Roots organic Master pack nutrients line.

water source: Tap PhD to 6.4-6.5

Strain/age: Northern cheese haze X sour bubbly, day 38

light used: 2 kingbrite 240w QB LEDs 3500k spectrum on 18/6 timer.

Climate: Cloudline T6 fan, temps stay at 78/79 and humidity around 60

Additional info: Been supplementing every feed with nutrients from the roots master pack so if it's a deficiency I don't know what it could be that I'm not already giving it. I'm thinking the nutrients could be weak and I'm not using the proper amounts but I don't wanna over do it. I've increased nutrients every feed.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

What is MG seed starter? I really need to see the plants but I think you are way off on the balance of your nutrients. When you use a multiple part fertilizer program like Roots it is important to keep all of the parts in balance and use all of the parts in the line. Until you learn (I have been learning for years and years and still I am only a grasshopper) a lot about plant nutrition it is best to use only one vendor's products. They are designed to work together in harmony. Adding anything else is like roulette lock-out. It is true that many nutrient lines are too strong for our plants and starting at 50% strength and working up each week by 10% to tip burn then back-off 10% will dial-in the strength for that plant. So what that means is you use 50% of each item down the list on one day then plain PH water the next. If the item has an amount in the column for the week your plant is in it is not optional.
If you are not using all of the products in the list in balance that will cause lock-outs as well as using some other vendor products. I also think the plants may be starving at the level you are feeding But will be better able to judge and make suggestions with better pictures.

Your PH going in is too high and you need to know the PH in the root zone.You need to get an Accurate 8 PH soil probe (or the clone) or a Blue Lab soil probe. If you go with Blue Lab be sure to get the correct one as they make several. Do not bother with any of the cheap ones as they do not work.

 

[GreenMersh]

What is MG seed starter? I really need to see the plants but I think you are way off on the balance of your nutrients. When you use a multiple part fertilizer program like Roots it is important to keep all of the parts in balance and use all of the parts in the line. Until you learn (I have been learning for years and years and still I am only a grasshopper) a lot about plant nutrition it is best to use only one vendor's products. They are designed to work together in harmony. Adding anything else is like roulette lock-out. It is true that many nutrient lines are too strong for our plants and starting at 50% strength and working up each week by 10% to tip burn then back-off 10% will dial-in the strength for that plant. So what that means is you use 50% of each item down the list on one day then plain PH water the next. If the item has an amount in the column for the week your plant is in it is not optional.
If you are not using all of the products in the list in balance that will cause lock-outs as well as using some other vendor products. I also think the plants may be starving at the level you are feeding But will be better able to judge and make suggestions with better pictures.

View attachment 1219632

Your PH going in is too high and you need to know the PH in the root zone.You need to get an Accurate 8 PH soil probe (or the clone) or a Blue Lab soil probe. If you go with Blue Lab be sure to get the correct one as they make several. Do not bother with any of the cheap ones as they do not work.

Here's a couple pictures with only 1 light on dimmed completely down. MG Is miracle grow seed starter from what I can tell its mostly peat I just used it to make 1 extra pot mixed with the remainder of my roots organics soil and added perlite. The last time I watered I used 6mls of the buddah bloom, 5mls of the Trinity, 3.75mls of the extreme serene, 3.75mls of ancient amber, 2.5mls of the HPK, 2.5mls of some calmag mixed per 1 gallon of tap water that has been sitting open for 24hrs. What pH should you suggest I use rather than 6.4-6.5? I have the bluelab pH pen but not the soil probe.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

They look like they are starving with lock-outs as well. There might be a little bit of coloring from genetics but your nutrient application is missing parts and is all out of balance. When you use a multiple part fertilizer program like Roots it is important to keep all of the parts in balance and use all of the parts in the line. Until you learn (I have been learning for years and years and still I am only a grasshopper) a lot about plant nutrition it is best to use only one vendor's products. They are designed to work together in harmony. Adding anything else is like lock-out roulette . It is true that many nutrient lines are too strong for our plants and starting at 50% strength and working up each week by 10% to tip burn then back-off 10% will dial-in the strength for that plant. So what that means is you use 50% of each item down the list on one day then plain PH water the next. If the item has an amount in the column for the week your plant is in it is not optional.
If you are not using all of the products in the list in balance that will cause lock-outs as well as using some other vendor products. I also think the plants may be starving at the level you are feeding.

This chart shows what you are doing and your percentages are all over the place.

There are other components that are not in my chart but you get the picture.

So where to go from here:
Mix a complete in balance Bloom week 2 feeding plus extra for run-off at 100% strength PH to 6.1 including an application of Big Worm if you have it and Fertigate to about 30% run-off. Foliar with Serene. Then when needed water with PHed water 6.1 to 30% run-off. Then when needed move to 100% bloom week 3 PH 6.1 and fertigate to 30% run-off, top feed Uprising Bloom if you have it. Foliar with Ancient Amber. Now when The next water at PH6.1 back off to 5% - 10% run-off from here on out just follow the chart. If you start to see signs of N Toxicity back of to 75% on everything.

Tag me with updates please.

 

[GreenMersh]

They look like they are starving with lock-outs as well. There might be a little bit of coloring from genetics but your nutrient application is missing parts and is all out of balance. When you use a multiple part fertilizer program like Roots it is important to keep all of the parts in balance and use all of the parts in the line. Until you learn (I have been learning for years and years and still I am only a grasshopper) a lot about plant nutrition it is best to use only one vendor's products. They are designed to work together in harmony. Adding anything else is like lock-out roulette . It is true that many nutrient lines are too strong for our plants and starting at 50% strength and working up each week by 10% to tip burn then back-off 10% will dial-in the strength for that plant. So what that means is you use 50% of each item down the list on one day then plain PH water the next. If the item has an amount in the column for the week your plant is in it is not optional.
If you are not using all of the products in the list in balance that will cause lock-outs as well as using some other vendor products. I also think the plants may be starving at the level you are feeding.

This chart shows what you are doing and your percentages ar all over the place all over the place.
View attachment 1219910

There are other components that are not in my chart but you get the picture.

So where to go from here:
Mix a complete in balance Bloom week 2 feeding plus extra for run-off at 100% strength PH to 6.1 including an application of Big Worm if you have it and Fertigate to about 30% run-off. Foliar with Serene. Then when needed water with PHed water 6.1 to 30% run-off. Then when needed move to 100% bloom week 3 PH 6.1 and fertigate to 30% run-off, top feed Uprising Bloom if you have it. Foliar with Ancient Amber. Now when The next water at PH6.1 back off to 5% - 10% run-off from here on out just follow the chart. If you start to see signs of N Toxicity back of to 75% on everything.

Tag me with updates please.

Ah I see what you're saying now yeah I haven't followed the schedule from them I didn't give any nutrients until 2 weeks after they broke ground since I thought the soil would have enough. My previous auto grows I've used fox farms happy frog soil with the fox farms trio and I burned the hell outta one of my plants, ever since then I've been hesitant with adding too much nutrients. I feel like I have a more than adequate set up for producing some good plants I just need to learn how to use it correctly. This is my 3rd autoflower grow and I'm still struggling to get everything right lol. I've got about another cubic ft of Roots organics original for the next grow, hopefully I can start that one off good. I'll take your advice and up the nutrients and add the correct solutions according to the feed schedule, post some updates in a few days. Thanks for the help!

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Ah I see what you're saying now yeah I haven't followed the schedule from them I didn't give any nutrients until 2 weeks after they broke ground since I thought the soil would have enough. My previous auto grows I've used fox farms happy frog soil with the fox farms trio and I burned the hell outta one of my plants, ever since then I've been hesitant with adding too much nutrients. I feel like I have a more than adequate set up for producing some good plants I just need to learn how to use it correctly. This is my 3rd autoflower grow and I'm still struggling to get everything right lol. I've got about another cubic ft of Roots organics original for the next grow, hopefully I can start that one off good. I'll take your advice and up the nutrients and add the correct solutions according to the feed schedule, post some updates in a few days. Thanks for the help!

You are welcome and welcome to the club. I have had very few perfect grows. The life of a farmer is a difficult one.

 

[GreenMersh]

You are welcome and welcome to the club. I have had very few perfect grows. The life of a farmer is a difficult one.

Also, you mentioned a foliar spray sometime in there. When exactly is it considered too late to do a foliar spray ? She's on day 39 now and already making buds.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Also, you mentioned a foliar spray sometime in there. When exactly is it considered too late to do a foliar spray ? She's on day 39 now and already making buds.

Well most growers do not foliar spray after the flowers start to become dense enough to hold the water inside. Some will foliar feed at any time?
I stop about week 3 of flower.

If possible, you should aim to foliar feed your plants in the evening, preferably two hours before the lights go out as this is the peak time where stomata are ‘awake’, alternatively you can apply a foliar feed in the morning, roughly an hour before the lights come on. I don't' like doing it in the morning.