No pollen yet - howcum?

[Ryno_nuggs]

To all following in here, I had a night queen i reversed way back in this thread. I pollinated (or attempted to) a sour crack and another freebie from mephisto.

So my question is, how long do you need to wait from pollination, to when the seeds will be ready?

From what I have read, 4-6 weeks. Does that sound right? @Olderfart @Heisenbeans

Thank you gentlemen for the response in advance.

 

[Olderfart]

To all following in here, I had a night queen i reversed way back in this thread. I pollinated (or attempted to) a sour crack and another freebie from mephisto.

So my question is, how long do you need to wait from pollination, to when the seeds will be ready?

From what I have read, 4-6 weeks. Does that sound right? @Olderfart @Heisenbeans

Thank you gentlemen for the response in advance.

I haven't paid attention to that, I just leave the pollenated branch on the plant after I remove the unpollenated bud, and leave it there until the seeds are dark and hard. You can't leave it too long, but you can go too early. As I recall, I have usually left the pollenated branch at least a week or more likely two after the bud on the rest of the plant is chopped. I go for a relatively late chop on the bud, so take that into account.

Bottom line, leave the branch alone until well after the bud on the rest of the plant is ripe and chopped, and a week or so after bud was (or, if the whole plant was pollenated, would have been) chopped, start monitoring seed maturity by pulling a seed once in a while. The main thing is don't worry about leaving it too long.

Good luck with it.

 

[Heisenbeans]

To all following in here, I had a night queen i reversed way back in this thread. I pollinated (or attempted to) a sour crack and another freebie from mephisto.

So my question is, how long do you need to wait from pollination, to when the seeds will be ready?

From what I have read, 4-6 weeks. Does that sound right? @Olderfart @Heisenbeans

Thank you gentlemen for the response in advance.

It takes 5 to 7 weeks to make a good seed. Some will look brown but they need to be tiger striped and mature to be good strong seeds

 

[Olderfart]

It takes 5 to 7 weeks to make a good seed. Some will look brown but they need to be tiger striped and mature to be good strong seeds

Like this?

They haven't been tested yet.

 

[Ryan Golightly]

biggest issue i had with sts it stained everything, hated the chemical smell and just never saw a benefit over CS. Reversed plants should Have NO hairs at all. Those hairs becoming pollinated creates a whole different issue. I usually have to reverse entire tables for seed productions. STS would bankrupt me at the cost, and its also pretty hard on the plants. The healthier the plants are the better they produce sacks. I run my CS generators on timers so its all automated. Takes 2 weeks from start and after the balls show up no more spraying.
I also use battery powered spray packs. I like the CS a little better cause it's a little cleaner IMO.
Everyone will have what works best for them , I make about 400,000 fems a year give or take and have done all kinds of methods. View attachment 1300307

Would you recommend Colloidal silver over STS? I'm asking because I have been delving into making my own auto fem seeds for my own personal use. I'm at a total loss as to what I should do first.

 

[Bill.de.Cat]

Would you recommend Colloidal silver over STS? I'm asking because I have been delving into making my own auto fem seeds for my own personal use. I'm at a total loss as to what I should do first.

I would say STS...it reacts quicker from what i've read and seen......we are doing a test on members offering..and it damn sure turned them up and am expecting a few free beans out of it..

 

[Ryan Golightly]

I would say STS...it reacts quicker from what i've read and seen......we are doing a test on members offering..and it damn sure turned them up and am expecting a few free beans out of it..

Well, to be completely honest, this will be my first attempt at making my own fem autos. Basically just back crossed strains I've gotten from seed banks at the moment to save some money, but eventually I would like to make my own strain if only just to be able to say I did. I am trying to get back into the habit of being on here as much as I am on Facebook lol. My most recent grow was a total loss due to the heat wave, so I'm playing it by ear to get a grow fired off soon.

 

[Bill.de.Cat]

Be prepared to work for that pollen... mine didn't produce as much as males do even though there was an abundance of flowers. Like you just wanting to increase my supply at little cost and will probably try my hand at CS after this test batch of STS is used up.
Heat has been brutal for me this year as well living in the south, but I mostly grow inside and it was only the tranny's that were outside.

 

[Deftone]

Would it be easiest to grow 2 plants of the same strain.....start one a little earlier than the other (So you can switch it with STS)and wait for some pollen to be created? Then try and pollinate the second plant with what you collect?

 

[Olderfart]

Would it be easiest to grow 2 plants of the same strain.....start one a little earlier than the other (So you can switch it with STS)and wait for some pollen to be created? Then try and pollinate the second plant with what you collect?

That is exactly what I do, and it works fine.

My last pollen application was done inside the main tent, and it is how I will do it in future. This was a soil grow with 10 gallon pots, so I was not interested in moving them around to pollenate. To apply pollen, I sewed a cloth bag big enough to cover a branch with flowers on it, drawstringed the end around the base of the branch, and injected pollen into the bag through a metal needle on a syringe. To load the syringe, I put a mix of dried rice and pollen into the syringe barrel, and pumped the plunger back and forth hard with the needle poked through the cloth of the bag. When pumping the plunger, incoming air to the syringe makes lots of pollen airborne, and then it gets clouded into the bag when it is squirted in. This resulted in close to 100% pollenation of flowers in the bag, and no seeds anywhere else. To keep the pollen from getting to other plants, the cloth bag was damp when installed so that any pollen that landed on it would be killed, and later while very gently removing the bag, I misted the branch as it emerged from the bag, and had previously misted nearby branches. I found that a cord on the end of the bag made overhead support of the bag and brance easy during the operation. Previous pollen was applied with Qtip, and I did not get as high a rate of pollenation.

Good luck with it, hit me with questions if I can help further.