Grow Mediums Mr and Mrs AutoOtto's medical cannabis Autoflower grow diary

What frustration when one spends time on an entry or PM only to be auto disconnected.

It is a great security feature of the site. I am now habituated to coping the text every few minutes. Just in case of a loss.

Your set up is becoming sophisticated--indeed. :thumbs:
 
GGGEEEss how did i mis you guysHoly Moly first let me say styles rasta ...glad to have you, and might i add, glad to have you, and did i say styles rasta
Well thank you for that most enthusiastic welcome! Just about to post another diary entrance here shortly and may I just say, glad to be here!
 
7/09/13: Went down to check on the girls this morning, and although all the ones with bubbles look great, almost all the others are showing a bit of yellowing on the leaf tips, the Sour D being the sole exception (would have some pics for you guys, but the plants are small and my camera sucks doesn't really properly show it) it being about 2 1/2 weeks since the were planted and the fact that the plants not yet bubbling haven't had a drink of nutes stronger than 1/4 strength made me think that they had used up the fuel in their cotyledons and were now getting a bit starved for nitrogen, so I mixed them up some water with nutes just over 1/2 strength, ph'd it to 5.6 and gave them all a good drink. Hopefully that is what they needed, maybe by tomorrow I'll have a better idea if I was accurate in diagnosing this. The yellowing is only at the leaf tips of the first set of leaves to push up AFTER the cotyledon, the set above shows no such deficiency on any of the plants. Also disturbing. Checking the reservoirs of the bubbling buckets, in less than 24 hours the ph went from 5.8-5.9 all the way up to a range of 8.3-8.8 I immediately corrected the ph, but it seems a rather large jump, the medium must still be quite alkaline, really regretting not flushing out this medium before I started, and also regret not having started in jiffy cubes or some other medium the plants could take initial root in better than this perlite, it's fine for spreading roots through, but not so great for anchoring them. My first grow though, you live and you learn, what can I say....
7/10/13: Very frustrating day today. I'll go into the worst of it here in a bit, but first things first, got up this morning, and went to check on the ladies. They looked like perhaps the feeding yesterday did them good. Still too early to tell, but the yellowing certainly doesn't seem to have spread any more. Checked the bubbling buckets and once again, the ph had jumped considerably (this time in the 7.8-8.3 range) Corrected once more, but almost out of ph down, and don't have $ to get more this second.... But now, now came the fun part of my day. My brother gave me all the 400w MH ballasts, reflectors and bulbs. When he had them installed he had a master electrician set it all up, and when we disconnected everything, we left a couple ballasts hooked up to a chunk of main power wire and still left jumpered together so we'd have a blueprint on how to install them. Regardless, that sort of thing is one of my weak points and I don't trust myself to do it, so I got help from friends who knew more about that sort of thing than me. When my friend hooked them up, he followed, as best he could the way they seemed to have been originally hooked up, so thought it would be a simple matter of installing the new breakers and turning them on but we hooked up the 2 extra 220 breakers today and when we flipped the switch, nothing. So had another friend who knows more about electronics than that friend give it a go, and we got them going, but only intermittently and it was clear something was not hooked up right. So that friend went down to the local Hydroponics shop and they gave him some advice on how to hook them up. He came back and followed their advice... and we lost 2 ballasts. The lights would turn on initially, seeming normal, then they would go out and the ballast would start humming loudly, we'd immediately turn off the breaker, but when we kicked it back on the ballast was completely unresponsive. We tried hooking it up both on 110 and 220 and got the same result both times, so lost 2 ballasts. I still have a couple backups (and the blown ones just need a transformer replaced) but was beginning to get really frustrated at this point, the friend said they had tried to help him best they could at the shop, but the resident electrician had not been in and perhaps he would be today, so we grabbed a good ballast and a blown one and a bulb and hood for good measure. Well, I had been hearing nothing but great things about this grow shop from several sources, and I have to say, I was completely underwhelmed on my first (and final) visit. The electrician was there, but he refused to give me any advice on how to hook it up (worried that I'd blame him if it didn't go right) He told me to google the model # and look for a schematic online (I googled it extensively, and couldn't find anything remotely resembling a schematic) After my buddy left, I hung around at the grow shop for a few, looking around at what they had on hand and felt completely ignored by the proprietors, even asked them about a couple things, and when i went over to look at stuff, they didn't even come over and try to assess my needs or ask me what I was looking for in said product (I was dressed a little raggedy, maybe it was just the fact that I don't look like I have dollar bills coming out of my asshole) But I didn't care for their attitude or lack of attentiveness and their prices were no better than the other grow shop I've been to locally, and at least over there, they've made me feel like a valued customer. Never spending a dime at that place. (sorry for the rant) So now apparently, I need to hire an electrician to get my HID lighting up and running. The only problem with that is that I've spent so much money getting this up and running and to a state at least to where we can have the autoflower room pushing out medicine at full capacity, that just to pay our bills right now, I need to make a couple thousand dollars in about the next 20 days. I can do that, but no more than that, which leaves nothing to pay an electrician, and I really, really don't like the thought of having to run those plants off a 4' 4bar T5 for a whole nother month. That is really going to stunt the potential of these plants, and we need them to produce..... :shrug: What can we do besides what we can do?
 
Damn....sorry Auto's. T5 is better then nothin.. As for the ph issue.... I use discuss buffer. The stuff used for fish. It does mess with the cal mag but you can foiler spray that. Takes the ph down and keeps it down 3/4 tsp in a 50 gl res was in the 6.0 range and it kept it that way with top offs and adding nutz for two weeks.. I have only used it once still in the trial phase. Dont know if it causes any issues to roots, it shouldn't. Just putting it out there.
 
Damn....sorry Auto's. T5 is better then nothin.. As for the ph issue.... I use discuss buffer. The stuff used for fish. It does mess with the cal mag but you can foiler spray that. Takes the ph down and keeps it down 3/4 tsp in a 50 gl res was in the 6.0 range and it kept it that way with top offs and adding nutz for two weeks.. I have only used it once still in the trial phase. Dont know if it causes any issues to roots, it shouldn't. Just putting it out there.

The ph stays that way in the watering can so I don't think it's my buffer, I think the runoff from the net pot is really alkaline and continually raising the ph. Bottom line, i should have flushed my medium before use, and it may cost me the productiveness of my crop unless I can find something to buffer this perlite down, or at bare minimum, a fortune in discuss or ph down or whatever it is I'll be using to continually bring the ph in these reservoirs down. Doesn't help that my water comes out of the tap at a ph of 8, either Thanks for your advice, I'll look into that discuss buffer.
 
I rinsed and sterilized my hydroton before use and it still raised my water ph. I had to do the same thing. Whent through a lot of ph down toget it low. It was crazy I was adjusting daily. Thats when and why I decided to try the discuss buffer.
 
I rinsed and sterilized my hydroton before use and it still raised my water ph. I had to do the same thing. Whent through a lot of ph down toget it low. It was crazy I was adjusting daily. Thats when and why I decided to try the discuss buffer.
Ok, glad to hear I didn't make as big a slip up as I thought. Gonna plant the new mommas tomorrow (in jiffy cubes) and will make sure to rinse my new perlite out well, but now know, I can probably be expecting to fight the ph for a bit to get it where we want it. Thanks again for the advice
stylez rasta smoke
 
What a debacle with the lighting. I almost always refer to Rosenthal for expertise. He calls the five grow essentials, "limiting factors" - water, lighting, co2, nutes and temp/humidity. They all work together. When one factor is limited it affects yield for the most part. This can be marginal or very dramatic, e.g. temp affects PH of water and high temp. stalls/stops photosynthesis etc. It is a process of coordination. It becomes a balancing or compensatory process. We have some grower that have, simply, a near ideal grow environment. But, it has taken them through a long learning curve. And we have growers who have been at this for decades. They are very consistent and seem to have hit the sweet spot. Which is why many of us wonder--how do they do it. So, I think if your lighting is modest one must control the other limiting factors--notably, the amount of nutes, air circulation etc. etc. With low or high lighting nute levels become, very important, because of uptake (can lead to either a serious nute burn or little growth).

My environment is hot and I am using 100% coco for the first time. So, I have added silicon which is not mobile. It protects the plants from extremes and is a component of soil and not present in hydro or soiless (typically). I noticed my temp was at 90 degrees earlier today; however, the humidity is about right and the plants looked good. I made a few adjustments and the temp went down.

I think you are right about buffering. Hydro growers fight PH swings. Like you said temp and your set up influence this. One way to get a buffer (Rosenthal) is to obtain an initial ec/ppm before adding nutes. Then add nutes and adjust the final PH. So, one would either use RO water and add cal-meg (teaspoon per gallon--roughly) then PH this mix or as an alternative use 1/2 RO water and 1/2 spring water then PH before adding nutes. This process provides the buffer. It took me a long time to finally understand this process. Very important but, more so, with hydro/soiless. Also, some additives will adjust PH swings on the spot in reservoirs, e.g. silicon and some simulators. The hydro guys know all about this.

Yellow tips, generally, but not always indicate a nute overload when young. Most growers are accustomed to this and is often just a minor deficiency (iron) and self corrects with growth and feeding. Yellow tips are found in the best of grows. And I have burned plants unmercifully in the past because of PH and buffering issues. And would target the soil composition as the direct cause. My learning curve was extended because of this simple concept of buffering.

You have one heck of a project going. Keep on plugging away.

Others may comment on this topic. My thoughts and ref. to Rosenthal is not the only way to grow canna. Maybe one of the top growers will -- provide us with a secret.
 
What a debacle with the lighting. I almost always refer to Rosenthal for expertise. He calls the five grow essentials, "limiting factors" - water, lighting, co2, nutes and temp/humidity. They all work together. When one factor is limited it affects yield for the most part. This can be marginal or very dramatic, e.g. temp affects PH of water and high temp. stalls/stops photosynthesis etc. It is a process of coordination. It becomes a balancing or compensatory process. We have some grower that have, simply, a near ideal grow environment. But, it has taken them through a long learning curve. And we have growers who have been at this for decades. They are very consistent and seem to have hit the sweet spot. Which is why many of us wonder--how do they do it. So, I think if your lighting is modest one must control the other limiting factors--notably, the amount of nutes, air circulation etc. etc. With low or high lighting nute levels become, very important, because of uptake (can lead to either a serious nute burn or little growth).

My environment is hot and I am using 100% coco for the first time. So, I have added silicon which is not mobile. It protects the plants from extremes and is a component of soil and not present in hydro or soiless (typically). I noticed my temp was at 90 degrees earlier today; however, the humidity is about right and the plants looked good. I made a few adjustments and the temp went down.

I think you are right about buffering. Hydro growers fight PH swings. Like you said temp and your set up influence this. One way to get a buffer (Rosenthal) is to obtain an initial ec/ppm before adding nutes. Then add nutes and adjust the final PH. So, one would either use RO water and add cal-meg (teaspoon per gallon--roughly) then PH this mix or as an alternative use 1/2 RO water and 1/2 spring water then PH before adding nutes. This process provides the buffer. It took me a long time to finally understand this process. Very important but, more so, with hydro/soiless. Also, some additives will adjust PH swings on the spot in reservoirs, e.g. silicon and some simulators. The hydro guys know all about this.

Yellow tips, generally, but not always indicate a nute overload when young. Most growers are accustomed to this and is often just a minor deficiency (iron) and self corrects with growth and feeding. Yellow tips are found in the best of grows. And I have burned plants unmercifully in the past because of PH and buffering issues. And would target the soil composition as the direct cause. My learning curve was extended because of this simple concept of buffering.

You have one heck of a project going. Keep on plugging away.

Others may comment on this topic. My thoughts and ref. to Rosenthal is not the only way to grow canna. Maybe one of the top growers will -- provide us with a secret.

Welll said
 
What a debacle with the lighting. I almost always refer to Rosenthal for expertise. He calls the five grow essentials, "limiting factors" - water, lighting, co2, nutes and temp/humidity. They all work together. When one factor is limited it affects yield for the most part. This can be marginal or very dramatic, e.g. temp affects PH of water and high temp. stalls/stops photosynthesis etc. It is a process of coordination. It becomes a balancing or compensatory process. We have some grower that have, simply, a near ideal grow environment. But, it has taken them through a long learning curve. And we have growers who have been at this for decades. They are very consistent and seem to have hit the sweet spot. Which is why many of us wonder--how do they do it. So, I think if your lighting is modest one must control the other limiting factors--notably, the amount of nutes, air circulation etc. etc. With low or high lighting nute levels become, very important, because of uptake (can lead to either a serious nute burn or little growth).

My environment is hot and I am using 100% coco for the first time. So, I have added silicon which is not mobile. It protects the plants from extremes and is a component of soil and not present in hydro or soiless (typically). I noticed my temp was at 90 degrees earlier today; however, the humidity is about right and the plants looked good. I made a few adjustments and the temp went down.

I think you are right about buffering. Hydro growers fight PH swings. Like you said temp and your set up influence this. One way to get a buffer (Rosenthal) is to obtain an initial ec/ppm before adding nutes. Then add nutes and adjust the final PH. So, one would either use RO water and add cal-meg (teaspoon per gallon--roughly) then PH this mix or as an alternative use 1/2 RO water and 1/2 spring water then PH before adding nutes. This process provides the buffer. It took me a long time to finally understand this process. Very important but, more so, with hydro/soiless. Also, some additives will adjust PH swings on the spot in reservoirs, e.g. silicon and some simulators. The hydro guys know all about this.

Yellow tips, generally, but not always indicate a nute overload when young. Most growers are accustomed to this and is often just a minor deficiency (iron) and self corrects with growth and feeding. Yellow tips are found in the best of grows. And I have burned plants unmercifully in the past because of PH and buffering issues. And would target the soil composition as the direct cause. My learning curve was extended because of this simple concept of buffering.

You have one heck of a project going. Keep on plugging away.

Others may comment on this topic. My thoughts and ref. to Rosenthal is not the only way to grow canna. Maybe one of the top growers will -- provide us with a secret.

All I can say is... Wow. That is perhaps the most well thought out and helpful response I have ever seen. Thank you ever so much, you adressed all my concerns and took a definite load off my mind. Don't worry about the lighting, a buddy offered to let me use some equipment if we can't get these figured out. I'm off to the mountains to pick huckleberries at about 3:30 in the morning, (I'll be going daily for at least a few days) so no time for a full entry now, but not sure one is warranted at the moment anyway. Here within the next few days when our equipment issues are figured out, we'll give a proper update. Thank you once again for the exhaustively thorough response stylez rasta smoke
 
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