Nope. Just cover the top of the coco with it and mix it in as best as you can. It works by basically cutting up the insects with the shells. Once you water it in it won't blow around anymore
One last question
What brand of spinosad do you use? Does it matter?
 
One last question
What brand of spinosad do you use? Does it matter?
Doesn't really matter but this is what we usually have around
Screenshot_20230212-112152.png
 
I just ordered some hydroguard. Will that help with preventing the bugs on my next run?

As far as I know no hydroguard does not do anything for bugs I either use the spinosad product jp mentions above or monterey insect spray

1676219635434.png


Going over my notes from the last grow I had some success with the silica when I would first add 1 mil per gallon of pH up to my ro water then wait a good 30 minutes then add the silica then wait 30 more minutes then add Cal/Mag and Grow nutrients.
So I think I will make a mix that way and try the silica again.

Everything I've read says to ph adjust last :shrug::goodluck:
 
As far as I know no hydroguard does not do anything for bugs I either use the spinosad product jp mentions above or monterey insect spray

View attachment 1564823



Everything I've read says to ph adjust last :shrug::goodluck:
It's being used as a ph buffer in this case. After I mix the silica it puts the ph at 10. Then I mix the nutrients and it always comes out between 5.6-5.8
My plants look like shit so I may be doing it wrong
 
It's being used as a ph buffer in this case. After I mix the silica it puts the ph at 10. Then I mix the nutrients and it always comes out between 5.6-5.8
My plants look like shit so I may be doing it wrong
Above my knowledge but I don't believe the ph adjustment does any for buffering capacity.. I think you maybe be having the same issue's as me the RO needs to be stabilized I have started doing that my adding .3gram of gypsum and .3grams of Epsom.. But I have also done it in the past with 50ppm of calmag to the RO water first.. the issue is the RO is very hungry this is how MOG has explained it to me and still working on it


"I saw your post over in LS but will answer here. RO water is Hungry, if left to the open air it will absorb Co² and become acidic as low as 5.5 PH and it does not PH easily you have to use too much buffering to get it to 6.4 PH that you want for your soil type.

If applied to the soil without stabilizing it will bind to the Ca and lower soil PH over time.

If you add a small amount of cal-mag to it the night before you are going to use it, it will stabilize it and make it much easier to PH and or mix your nutrients in. I would recommend using Soluble Gypsum and Ag Epsom salt at the rate of .3g gypsum and .3g Epsom per Gallon, but any Cal-mag will work just you add until ~50 PPM on your EC meter. Most EC meters do not read below 50 PPM "
 
Above my knowledge but I don't believe the ph adjustment does any for buffering capacity.. I think you maybe be having the same issue's as me the RO needs to be stabilized I have started doing that my adding .3gram of gypsum and .3grams of Epsom.. But I have also done it in the past with 50ppm of calmag to the RO water first.. the issue is the RO is very hungry this is how MOG has explained it to me and still working on it


"I saw your post over in LS but will answer here. RO water is Hungry, if left to the open air it will absorb Co² and become acidic as low as 5.5 PH and it does not PH easily you have to use too much buffering to get it to 6.4 PH that you want for your soil type.

If applied to the soil without stabilizing it will bind to the Ca and lower soil PH over time.

If you add a small amount of cal-mag to it the night before you are going to use it, it will stabilize it and make it much easier to PH and or mix your nutrients in. I would recommend using Soluble Gypsum and Ag Epsom salt at the rate of .3g gypsum and .3g Epsom per Gallon, but any Cal-mag will work just you add until ~50 PPM on your EC meter. Most EC meters do not read below 50 PPM "
I don't have the gypsum. But Cal Mag I do have. But wouldn't adding CalMag or any nutrients before adding silica cause precipitate? I am still learning also. Ro water can be a lifesaver and a pita at the same time :smoking::gary:
 
Above my knowledge but I don't believe the ph adjustment does any for buffering capacity.. I think you maybe be having the same issue's as me the RO needs to be stabilized I have started doing that my adding .3gram of gypsum and .3grams of Epsom.. But I have also done it in the past with 50ppm of calmag to the RO water first.. the issue is the RO is very hungry this is how MOG has explained it to me and still working on it


"I saw your post over in LS but will answer here. RO water is Hungry, if left to the open air it will absorb Co² and become acidic as low as 5.5 PH and it does not PH easily you have to use too much buffering to get it to 6.4 PH that you want for your soil type.

If applied to the soil without stabilizing it will bind to the Ca and lower soil PH over time.

If you add a small amount of cal-mag to it the night before you are going to use it, it will stabilize it and make it much easier to PH and or mix your nutrients in. I would recommend using Soluble Gypsum and Ag Epsom salt at the rate of .3g gypsum and .3g Epsom per Gallon, but any Cal-mag will work just you add until ~50 PPM on your EC meter. Most EC meters do not read below 50 PPM "
I have also often wondered if adding a small amount of tap water to my ro water would stabilize it. But I don't even drink the water where I live so I have been hesitant. But lately it reads 155 ppm from the tap at a ph of 7.1 so maybe it will be ok. I may experiment with it.
 
I don't have the gypsum. But Cal Mag I do have. But wouldn't adding CalMag or any nutrients before adding silica cause precipitate? I am still learning also. Ro water can be a lifesaver and a pita at the same time :smoking::gary:

:shrug: It is possible above my knowledge..

I have also often wondered if adding a small amount of tap water to my ro water would stabilize it. But I don't even drink the water where I live so I have been hesitant. But lately it reads 155 ppm from the tap at a ph of 7.1 so maybe it will be ok. I may experiment with it.
155ppm and a ph of 7.1 doesn't sound bad at all I would more then likely use that water.. My tap water is 400ppm 8.4ph and high alkalinity
 
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