MG, thanks for the thorough and well thought out reply. I concur with everything you touched on, and your thoughts help support my developing theory of light intensity preventing stretch. I'll acknowledge some of your key points here, but rather than trash your grow thread I think I'm going to start a thread on this topic.
I've grown photoperiods since forever, and stretch has always been a thing to plan for. Several years ago I decided to experiment with an autoflower freebie I received, and since then I've done (12) autoflower
single plant hydro
grows . To the point that I'm not doing photoperiods anymore. Nutrient regimens (General Hydroponics expert recirculating) have been tweaked slightly but nothing to account for my stretch dilemmas.
I began auto grows with a 250W HID, cooltube reflector, in a 2' X 2' X 63" Secret Jardin tent with (2) 170CFM centrifugal fans for light cooling and odor control. The first seven grows used this equipment, and virtually every one of those stretched like crazy. An 8th grow had to be aborted when the seed (a G-13 Labs Pineapple Express auto) turned out to be a full on male. Other than varying nute strengths slightly, the only changes made during those grows was a changeover to RO. My home water is from a well, 350-375ppm, and I've had it analyzed to confirm a healthy amount of cal-mag and no undesirable other elements. But the wife wanted a softener for laundry / dishes, so rather than fight and lose that battle I went RO. No biggie / no ill effects from the change. Key point being, every one of these first grows stretched, including a TH Seeds Auto Original BubbleGum that yielded 7.3oz cured. Some strains did even better but that's a different story for a different day.
For grow # 9, I decided it was time to start a transition from HID to LED, but I wasn't willing yet to bet the farm on a technology I was unfamiliar with at the time. So I bought a MARS II 700 drawing 263W at the wall in veg mode, and ran that through transition when I switched to bloom mode drawing 325W at the wall. I also added a second tent, 2'3" X 2'3" X 63"; 5 sq. ft. Thinking being the increased footprint of the tent would minimize differences in power between the old 250W HID and the new 325W LED (I know, wattage is not the best indicator of light performance, but it does get you to a small - medium - large point). And to help make a meaningful comparison, I chose another TH Seeds Auto Original BubbleGum which had sooooo pleased me previously. This first LED grow did a
personal best single plant yield of 11.76oz. after a 30 day cure. Great yield, wonderful smoke, but no stretch. 10" tall.
After BubbleGum, I did another G-13 Pineapple Express @ 8.07oz (decided to not fault G-13 with their male bean, chalked it off to poor quality control), a Dutch Passion Cinderella-Jack @7 oz., and the currently finishing DP Blue Auto Mazar (guessing 4- 5 oz). All of these were OK to good yielders but virtually none of these plants stretched at all. So for grow # 11 I decided to experiment with a Dutch Passion Blackberry Kush, and I ran it under my original 250W HID. It went back to the stretch-like-crazy trait, but it developed open calyxes halfway through bloom. Very good smoke but a disappointing 3.7oz. yield. But she was a beautiful girl - she's in my avatar.
So here I am starting my 14th autoflower grow, and I'm waiting for an old HID favorite to germinate, a Blimburn Seeds Mamba Negra Auto. This is one of the most impressive strains I've ever grown. Frost was off the chart (did over 12% hash by trim weight using an ISO quick-wash) and smoke was some of the best ever. Yield was 8.5oz after a 30 day cure. Now I'm hoping for another run under LED's at a much greater height to see if I can generate some stretch that's somewhere comparable to my old HID grows.
In support of the fine points you made in your reply:
- Pot / reservoir - pot is a 4 gallon ebb n' Grow container with approx 3 gallon net pot insert; 14" tall, consistent across all autoflower grows. These plants veg'ed FAST in the past; I had some plants reach 15-16" in 10 days when starting to show bloom. They loved the hydro!!!
- Day / night temp differential - indoor climate controlled to human comfort, 61 degrees F winter night lows (when lights are on / tent warmer) to 78 degrees F daytime summer highs (when lights are partly off - 20 / 4 cycle). Temps inside the tent range from 61 degrees F lows, 78F highs, with usual end-of-light cycle at 75F. The "old days" HID tent ran a bit hotter during summertime grows, up to 84 - 86 degrees F at the end of the lights-on cycle. But nighttime lows were higher as well so total differential was actually less. Basically, temps all good with no taco-ing or other heat stress symptoms.
- Less light early / mid stage & increase during the bloom. I've done this twofold with LED but I think not enough. Both of my LED's have veg only modes that lower power consumption to 263W and 170W respectively. And I have always (HID and LED) started veg at 30" light height, but quickly dropped to 12 - 14". Always used the old "back of the hand" method - hold the hand at plant canopy height, and if heat was comfortable, lower it some more. If the hand burst into flames, that meant the light was too close
- Nute solution too strong? I've always observed weak starts & stronger finishes. Veg progresses from 700 - 1000ppm, with 250ppm of that attributed to cal-mag & Si, so net 450ppm start-veg to 750 ppm starting transition to bloom. Bloom formulations provide for
increasingly stronger
early, mid- and late-bloom strengths. These formulations have not varied much since my first HID grow.
- Reflectivity - I am also a huge fan of Orca film; used it a lot with my indoor photoperiod grows under 400 & 600W HID grows. But auto's have all been in tents using standard foil-type reflective tent material. No change from HID to LED days.
So this brings me to the last topic, light height. Looking at your experience seems to support my thoughts. Your weaker lights can support much closer positioning to the plant canopy, while your stronger / more focused ones need to be raised considerably.
I did try to access your Dutch Passion blog, but got errors each time. I'm curious, what types of stretch you have experienced with each of those spacings? The blog might have answered some of that, but since it's not working ...?
This all makes sense. Even during my younger days on the farm and in the garden and moving to outdoor cannabis grows, any plants in direct sunlight always seemed to be more lush and compact, while ones in increasingly less light to shading, seemed to stretch or just grow in a spindly fashion.
I'm betting the answer to my question is that tall starting heights, followed by closer finishing heights, are going to yield the results I'm looking for. I WANT that stretch so I can train my plants for higher yield. And I want that light intensity to encourage dense bud formation resulting in improved yields.
Let's face it, a 4 oz grow is not too shabby, but with a 12 oz grow I can offer more meds for those in need.
And another side of this equation. Anyone struggling with limited headroom should be able to use this to their advantage. Lowering the light to control or eliminate stretch could make 12" max height plants a reality. With LST, every one of my auto LED grows have stayed below 12". Some people would LOVE that, but I can't be satisfied, gotta keep looking for more!!!
Once again, thanks so much for the detailed and well-thought reply. If you have no objections I may copy your reply into the thread as well. I'll tag you in when I get that thread started & welcome any further input.