Mañ'O'Green and GreenLeaf 2 part for Autos

[Mañ'O'Green]

We all agree on runoff, as I prefaced everything, "Unless a good drain-to-waste is done frequently...."

But I still presume that grows can be done without doing any drain-to-waste, such as using AutoPots, bottom-feeding wicking, drip or other controlled-type feeding systems that never allow any back-flow of dissolved salts from deposits at either the top or bottom. I recall back when I used AutoPots, the predominant guidance was to simply not top feed and disturb the salts layer.

That is correct, in autopots the layer of salt forms and you don't want to disturb it. Any accident can just kill the plant like a time bomb waiting to go off or do a regular flush and prevent it from forming. Every style of growing has potential pitfalls. If my back could lift them Earth box with true living soil is probably the safest way to grow. The guys at Build a Soil have this dialed in.

 

[coolno9]

That is correct, in autopots the layer of salt forms and you don't want to disturb it. Any accident can just kill the plant like a time bomb waiting to go off or do a regular flush and prevent it from forming. Every style of growing has potential pitfalls. If my back could lift them Earth box with true living soil is probably the safest way to grow. The guys at Build a Soil have this dialed in.

I'm back again. I had this very thing happen with this last run I'm pretty sure. 4 photo plants in autopots with coco, mid bloom all went way south, plants looked deficient and burned at the same time, bud formation was terrible. Getting rid of the autopots.

I still have all this coco/perlite to use though. Would your nutrient schedule work for coco drain to waste style? I saw earlier in the thread someone asked a similar question and you replied that additional gypsum could be used to satisfy the coco, how much additional gypsum could I use without throwing off the nutrient balance?

 

[Lil Dab]

I'm back again. I had this very thing happen with this last run I'm pretty sure. 4 photo plants in autopots with coco, mid bloom all went way south, plants looked deficient and burned at the same time, bud formation was terrible. Getting rid of the autopots.

I still have all this coco/perlite to use though. Would your nutrient schedule work for coco drain to waste style? I saw earlier in the thread someone asked a similar question and you replied that additional gypsum could be used to satisfy the coco, how much additional gypsum could I use without throwing off the nutrient balance?

This is what he's told me in the past and it works all right for me in coco DTW



"Yes In coco add 50 PPM Ca. 50 PPM less K and more iron if you have it. Hint - Kelp. Be sure to flush weekly with 50% strength nutrients."

 

[coolno9]

This is what he's told me in the past and it works all right for me in coco DTW



"Yes In coco add 50 PPM Ca. 50 PPM less K and more iron if you have it. Hint - Kelp. Be sure to flush weekly with 50% strength nutrients."

Nice, thanks. I think I can work with this information, back to the spreadsheets.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

I'm back again. I had this very thing happen with this last run I'm pretty sure. 4 photo plants in autopots with coco, mid bloom all went way south, plants looked deficient and burned at the same time, bud formation was terrible. Getting rid of the autopots.

I still have all this coco/perlite to use though. Would your nutrient schedule work for coco drain to waste style? I saw earlier in the thread someone asked a similar question and you replied that additional gypsum could be used to satisfy the coco, how much additional gypsum could I use without throwing off the nutrient balance?

Unfortunately there is a new kid on the block with that same look Hlvd, Hop Latent Viroid should be tested for, do the research. Yes it could also have been the salt?

 

[Lil Dab]

Unfortunately there is a new kid on the block with that same look Hlvd, Hop Latent Viroid should be tested for, do the research. Yes it could also have been the salt?

Do you know of any affordable at home test kits? I looked around before but it seems you have to send it out

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Do you know of any affordable at home test kits? I looked around before but it seems you have to send it out

No, and I think a regional thing and then the legal stuff? I think you need to google this one, it is just too new.

 

[Lil Dab]

No, and I think a regional thing and then the legal stuff? I think you need to google this one, it is just too new.

Yup I have been and will continue to look just was hoping you knew something I didn't. The issue I've seen is "requires lab equipment"

 

[JP1]

Yup I have been and will continue to look just was hoping you knew something I didn't. The issue I've seen is "requires lab equipment"

Tumi does then for $25 but you need to order 10 minimum

Hop Latent Viroid

The hop latent viroid PCR assay from TUMI Genomics employs the strictest and most precise detection strategy currently available. Our assay makes use of the diagnostic industry's most advanced PCR technique, TaqMan-qPCR. Critical features of the assay include: Detection of two targets in the...

tumigenomics.myshopify.com

Farmer Freeman does then for $50 each

Order — Farmer Freeman

www.farmerfreeman.com

Pretty sure you send in a very small sample of a piece of leaf, and that has no THC content so ok to send

 

[ChixawneyFarms]

I am sorry I am a Yank and work in gallons. This was my last schedule:

Read this carefully as the first line is seedlings then the next is 4.5 gallon buckets for soaking the rock wool. After that it is based on a 12 gallon reservoir. Click the link in my signature to read the implementation.

Black Fire, & Russian Winter from Beaver Genetics



View attachment 1525468

Good Luck!

Love the chart MoG!! Was this one of the final versions for the 2PART feeding? Ive been growing with 1PART for a couple years now i wanted to make the jump to 2PART and my water is pretty close to your ppm wise. I might have to adjust for calcium but ive been heavily invested on rereading this thread!! Thanks!