Light stress, nute lockout, both?

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Hello people! I'm a noob growing my 2nd plant (1st time indoors), and I'm having some problems which I fail to identify. I would appreciate any tips, advice or opinions.

TLDR:

(now)

(1 week ago) (scroll down for more pics)

42 days ago I planted an autoflower seed (silver haze auto) in generic gardening soil I had laying around, which I mixed with around 10% lava rock which I use for my succulents (I thought it would help with for aeration). I sterilized the mix in the oven as I had some problems with fungus growing other types of plants in the past.

Mistake 1: I over saturated the soil with water before adding the seed as I didn't know any better at the time. The seed sprouted 3 days later, so the plant is 39 days old now.

At day 9, I saw the first problem: leafs were curling inwards and seemed very dry



After asking around for advice, I believe this was due to a combination of factors: lights too close (I use LEDs, at the time I was using 2 x 13 W 1500 lumen 2700k phillips bulbs, as in this video:
10cm from the plant)

+ low rh (~40%) + very strong ventilation. I turned off the ventilation, lifted the lights, got a humidifier and everything got a bit better over the next days. Here is the plant at day 11:



At day 13, the plant started showing yellow / brownish tips on the branches, which was surprising as I hadn't started yet feeding. I got a TDS meter and measured my tap water, turns out it's very hard, around 400 ppm, with a ph of ~8. From this point I switched to distilled water, to which I add 1 ml of plant magic calmag per liter, which brings the ppm at ~200.

Mistake 2: I went overboard with the humidifier, leaving it on all the time for days, to the point that the leaves were constantly wet. Around day 16, this (or at least I think this is the reason) caused the new growth to claw and the lower leaves to show rapidly yellowing and browning, showing deficiencies. From what I read, too much humidity in the air prevents the water flow from the roots up into the plant, so no nutrients are available, that's my reasoning for concluding yellowing + browning were deficiencies.

I removed the humidifier, got a new rh probe as the old one was showing 60% even though the leaves were soaked and kept going. Even though the plant looked bad and it never fully recovered, it got better and kept growing.

I started feeding at day 21 with 1 ml of 7-3-6 fertilizer per liter of distilled water, in addition to the 1ml of calmag, bringing the total ppm at ~350.

I water by weighing the pot every day: I waited until what I thought was completely dry, wrote down the weight, and wait until it reaches that again to water. Typically for me that is ~1.9kg dry, then I water until I have decent run-off (~1l of water, pot is 6l), I wait a few minutes, then weigh again and it's typically ~2.3kg. I used to water once a week in weeks 2 and 3, lately I'm watering ~ every 3 days. I also noticed that when the pot is ~1.9kg the plant droops a lot and it takes it ~10-12h after watering to perk its leaves back to normal. I also have a 3 way meter measuring light / soil ph / soil moisture which I use to double check the moisture level before watering, and it's almost all the way to dry. I am adding all these details because to me the symptoms look like overwatering and I am very careful not to do it, but it's possible I still do.

I also measure the run off ph, which is 6.5, the same as the feed, and the TDS, which is ~400 ppm, a bit more than the 350 ppm feed. From what I read, this could indicate some build-up in the soil.

Light schedule is 20 / 4, I grow in a PC case which I converted and use 6 led bulbs like in the video. They are very close to the plant, 10 - 15cm from the canopy. The bottom of the case is raised and has holes for air getting in, and there are 2 exhaust fans on the "roof" of the case (which has holes as well) for getting the hot air out. The temperature stays at ~27.5 - 28 C while the lights are on, and drops to 21-22 when they are off. The humidity stays at ~45%, goes up to 65% for a few hours after I water.

A couple of days ago, seeing as the symptoms progress rapidly, I decided to flush with distilled water with a tiny drop of ph down (~6.5, I used ph strips to measure this time). I also started applying a foliar spray at ~300 ppm with my nutes + epsom salt, once per day. After the flush, I noticed that the soil took much more water than usual (went up to ~2.9 kg, usually when I water it only goes up to 2.3kg). I noticed new green growth appearing after the flush, especially at the base of the plant.

Pictures of the symptoms now:
https://imgur.com/a/91imk5T
1 week ago:
https://imgur.com/a/C9WFHQm

Questions:
- are lights too close? I have other leds around which are about half the intensity (in lumen, not sure if that translates directly to PAR), which I could swap. They are actually the same diodes, but a smaller number of them. If light is an issue, is it typically intensity or quantity? I.e. could reducing the number of diodes help, or do I need dimmer ones?
- given the age of the plant, if I switch to less intense lights, is it possible to starve the plant when it needs it most?
- given how much more water the soil took when flushing, is it possible that I was underwatering? Or that the plant would need more water under the current conditions, with the lights this close and I am not providing it? Or should the plant be fine if I wait until dry to water again (which would take around 5 days after the flush, 2-3 days when I water normally).
- any other tips?

My goal is to understand what's wrong so I can correct it next time.

Thanks very much for reading this far, and for any help you might offer!
If I forgot any details, let me know!
 
@autofail42069 :welcome:Welcome to AFN:welcome:There are any number of cultural practices that you have violated and may be contributing to a stressed plant. The lava rock may or may not be inert, some have mineral elements that can become available to the plant. As opposed to going thorough what may be wrong lets just look at what good practices would be. These practices are based on what has worked well for me over the years.

You need lots of fresh air at 68°F night time and 78°F daytime. You need to keep RH >40%<60%. I run good full spectrum lights 24/0 until the first set of true leaves then 18/6 through harvest. There are many different grow styles within Hydroponics or soil. Choose one and then choose a line of nutrients designed from the ground up for cannabis in that media. Use the entire line ONLY (this keeps the elements in balance) based on the feed schedule of the vendor. Start feeding at 50% strength and increase by 10% each week until you spot a little bit of tip burn then back off 10%. This will be that plants sweet spot.

The "Tacoing" leaf edges rolling inward is usually an indicator of low humidity with high heat but can also be caused by too much wind.

What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and roots there will die. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. There is an art to watering.

The discolored lower leaves is probably a sigh of too much fertilizer or letting the pot get too dry. New growers kill their plants with kindness. Less is always best because it is easy to feed more but difficult to remove excess.

Some hacked LED bulbs can get too hot if the plants get to close. It is the heat IR that is the problem not the strength of the light. You should look in to a good grow light for the future. @Marshydro has some very good lights for small spaces at reasonable prices.

Your temperatures in relation to RH are out of range and too dry. Here is a simplified chart. If you really want to get into it Look into VPD vapor pressure deficit. you want to be in the gold area.

vapor_pressure_deficit_relative_humidity_chart_small.jpg


Try to get your plants environment back into these ranges.

:goodluck:
 
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