Issue rapidly appearing during photo flower

[Cannaficionado]

If you suspect that it's a mag deficiency, don't add any more cal as the cal in the cal/mag will lock the mag out. You can get some epsom salts and water that in. Around 1 teaspoon per gallon. You can add to your nutes as well. It won't get rid of the brown spots, if that is what it is, but it should stop it from spreading lower into the canopy. If you're in soil, then most soil doesn't need cal at all IMHO.

Adding cal to an older plant to remedy things up at the top won't help anyway, as cal is an immobile nutrient it doesn't really travel. But you will lock out mag. Just compounding the issues.

Your plants look good. But cramped so I think even more that what you are seeing with the green fruits, is them simply not getting any light.

Bud rot/mold will look like "webs". Not saying you have the issue, but that's what I think of when I hear "webs". Squeeze the bud with webs, see if it crumbles and is brown on the interior. Good luck.

No nothing like that, it was literally cobwebs. Like youd see hanging in a basement rafter, just fresher looking.

Ive been told cal/mag isnt really necessary in soil too. Its weird I think its also in combination with a ph problem because most of my feed has magnesium sulfate in it, fox farm boomerang for sure does so I figured Id try adding calmag...and I follow the nute feed schedule so it gets added basically till the last 3 weeks of flower if I remember right. I may just use it alone and see if that helps. It is made for helping plants bounce back from stress and common deficiencies as a stand alone, and as part of the full line its suppose to be preventative

 

[Cannaficionado]

@Mañ'O'Green

Is it possible that my ppfd readings are low and im getting over 1000ppfd per plant. Idk what it looks like when plants are deprived suddenly but could this cause the any of the problems being seen

I know that when you start teetering on that level you need more nutrition and more co2 than ambient/normal levels

 

[Cannaficionado]

@Mañ'O'Green

Is it possible that my ppfd readings are low and im getting over 1000ppfd per plant. Idk what it looks like when plants are deprived suddenly but could this cause the any of the problems being seen

I know that when you start teetering on that level you need more nutrition and more co2 than ambient/normal levels

I just realized I forgot to answer your question about a gap under the pots and yes. They are on grated risers in a saucer to catch runoff. I do have wicks in there though as I was gonna bottom feed using wicking bases but I figured that was a little over my head, do you think wicking back the minimal runoff could cause issues as well?

 

[Cannaficionado]

You are the farmer, ultimately it is you that must make the final call. You think you have mites pull a leaf off and look at the bottom under magnification. If you find some react to the verified discovery. Unless you have a lab You will not learn much from a slurry test except PH if you do it right. A good slurry test means takin several samlples from different depths and pot distribution. It is pretty hard on the root structure in a small pot. It is pretty hard to mess up the PH of soil but I have seen new growers do it. If your soil has gone above 7.2 or below 5.7 you could lock out both Mg and P but like I said it is hard to do that. It is my belief you have overfed N.

I probably did, fox farms nutrient calls for 3 different ferts that all have high N values. I just didnt really see them darken any more after I started flowering. They do reduce the amount of N for flowering but it appears as it may still be too much. I think I'll just cut out the kelp after flowering in the future and see if that helps.

Sorry if you thought I was disregarding what you were saying. I just got a lot of feedback and Im just trying to process it all, and see if more people lean towards one idea, and why rather than another. Everything was going good and in the course of a couple weeks its going to hell.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

I probably did, fox farms nutrient calls for 3 different ferts that all have high N values. I just didnt really see them darken any more after I started flowering. They do reduce the amount of N for flowering but it appears as it may still be too much. I think I'll just cut out the kelp after flowering in the future and see if that helps.

Sorry if you thought I was disregarding what you were saying. I just got a lot of feedback and Im just trying to process it all, and see if more people lean towards one idea, and why rather than another. Everything was going good and in the course of a couple weeks its going to hell.

Your kelp has N? change brands and keep the kelp. This is what I use

 

[Cannaficionado]

Your kelp has N? change brands and keep the kelp. This is what I use

View attachment 1556941

Yes actually the highest value in it actually. Only .5 but its the equal parts with potassium. I thought it was more but upon looking I was mistaken, maybe I should just cut the grow big dose in half. Thats the one with the highest values

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

@Cannaficionado perhaps a better understanding of salt fertilizer and beneficials will help. Give this a read:

Tutorial - A word on Nutrients

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis. Salts: Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based...

www.autoflower.org

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Yes actually the highest value in it actually. Only .5 but its the equal parts with phosphorus. I thought it was more but upon looking I was mistaken, maybe I should just cut the grow big dose in half. Thats the one with the highest values

Are you using an EC meter? Is this the schedule you are using? If so it is way to hot for Autos.

 

[Cannaficionado]

@Cannaficionado perhaps a better understanding of salt fertilizer and beneficials will help. Give this a read:

Tutorial - A word on Nutrients

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis. Salts: Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based...

www.autoflower.org

Ok I think I know where part of my problem is. Ive been ph'ing my feeds to 6.2 since the start of flower, going towards the lower end of what fox farm said in their instructions. Calling for a ph of 5.7-6.7. As I thought a slightly lower ph during flower was better.

I try to follow the guidelines for what Im using but when things go haywire its hard to figure out what exactly I did wrong as the symptoms seem to appear slightly differently each time I see them so far, or progress differently. I also have a tendency to overthink stuff which almost always makes me second guess everything I do.

 

[Cannaficionado]

Are you using an EC meter? Is this the schedule you are using? If so it is way to hot for Autos.

View attachment 1556944

No the schedule I use is this one. But I dont use the foliar spray or the dry ferts at the bottom and I dont have the fish fert one. Figured I didnt need it.

And actually the ph values are wider on this one 5.6-6.8.

I havent used an ec meter as I use distilled water only, do you think I should still?

Also I didnt notice but my old schedule had another fertilizer that was supposed to be applied as a foliar spray, since ive never used it I didnt notice it was removed from this schedule. This is fox farms most recent soil feeding schedule. I got it about 2 months ago from their website.