Is This Auto Beginning to Hermie?

I just went and looked at your thread. IMPO your planed flush is way too long 3 days max in hydro. Also going 10 days before a refresh is only ok for the first 10 days after that every 7 days is best. It gets really expensive using those high dollar nutrients and that is why I am running GreenLeaf and NPK Ind. I went from $500.00 of House and Garden to $50.00 to grow out six plants. My quality has actually gone up but that is most likely do to the addition of UVA lights.
Thanks for the heads up on the length of flush. There's so much debate about flushing that I thought I'd eventually cross that bridge when I came to it. I figured that ten days might be too long and have actually thought about running it DTW for the flowering stage. The AN nutes are a little pricey but considering the fact that the res is only two gallons on this single waterfarm the costs aren't too bad. I also don't mind paying for the convenience of not having to deal with having to add ph up and down, a ph pen, cleaning and calibration solutions to the already long list of stuff that I need.
 
Thanks for the heads up on the length of flush. There's so much debate about flushing that I thought I'd eventually cross that bridge when I came to it. I figured that ten days might be too long and have actually thought about running it DTW for the flowering stage. The AN nutes are a little pricey but considering the fact that the res is only two gallons on this single waterfarm the costs aren't too bad. I also don't mind paying for the convenience of not having to deal with having to add ph up and down, a ph pen, cleaning and calibration solutions to the already long list of stuff that I need.
That is a mistake, AN does get out of PH and you need to be monitoring it. Get an Accurate 8 soil probe or a BlueLab probe for your media (they make several). Check the PH in the root zone where it counts. Measuring anywhere else will not give as reliable results.

A 2 gallon reservoir may need to be changed more often. Let me explain it in a simplified example: When you refresh the reservoir nutrients A, B, and C have a specific ratio; as the plant grows it does not use A, B, and C in equal amounts it just uses what it needs. So lets say it is using A heavily, every day the ratio with A, B, and C gets further out of specification so maybe by day 5 - B is so high in relation to A, it starts to lock out other nutrients. by day 7 something is locked out and this is why you start fresh each week. with only 2 gallons recirculating this may happen at a faster rate than in a bigger reservoir.

This is a sample of the reactions that can happen when one nutrient gets too high:

tox-lockout.jpg
 
That is a mistake, AN does get out of PH and you need to be monitoring it. Get an Accurate 8 soil probe or a BlueLab probe for your media (they make several). Check the PH in the root zone where it counts. Measuring anywhere else will not give as reliable results.

A 2 gallon reservoir may need to be changed more often. Let me explain it in a simplified example: When you refresh the reservoir nutrients A, B, and C have a specific ratio; as the plant grows it does not use A, B, and C in equal amounts it just uses what it needs. So lets say it is using A heavily, every day the ratio with A, B, and C gets further out of specification so maybe by day 5 - B is so high in relation to A, it starts to lock out other nutrients. by day 7 something is locked out and this is why you start fresh each week. with only 2 gallons recirculating this may happen at a faster rate than in a bigger reservoir.

This is a sample of the reactions that can happen when one nutrient gets too high:

View attachment 1157543
That makes total sense and thank you for taking the time to explain it so clearly. I'll definitely grab an Accurate 8 probe.
 
Not an Accurate 8 for you mate, Just a good EC and a good PH meter. I got you and another thread I was responding to mixed up. Dabs you know!
 
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