Is this a Ph Issue? Please help :)

[Paramagic]

Thank you everyone for the advice and speedy responses! I definitely won't be the askhole who doesn't take the advice that has been given! Cheers guys!

 

[Arthur]

Thank you everyone for the advice and speedy responses! I definitely won't be the askhole who doesn't take the advice that has been given! Cheers guys!

Make sure to keep us updated!

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

The obvious problem is N toxicity. I tried to look up the starting analysis of your soil and nothing on the website? is the NPK ratio on the bag?
The true watts for your LED light is 115w so it is not likely to be a problem at 12". If the plant begins to stretch too much lower the light to 15".
I also see the beginnings of P or cal-mag deficiencies and this can be that the soil is just too hot (too much N) or it can be a PH problem? Stop feeding - only water with PHed water 6.5. What is the source of your water? Do you know the starting PPMs of your water?

Over feeding out of balance nutrients is a common mistake for new growers. Many - NOT ALL - nutrient vendor feed schedule charts are just too much for many strains especially for Autos which need less. Of course this is a generalization and there are exceptions so how to get on the right track. This is what I recommend to get started.

Your going to get a lot of suggestions about how to feed your plants. IMHO it is best to use a vendors entire line ONLY. They spend millions of dollars developing nutrients to work together to achieve the best possible results. It is all about liebig's law of the minimum. When you understand this you will understand why you should not mix-n-match your own. The only exception to this rule is when you have deficiencies (it won't happen often if using nutrients correctly). There are a couple of additives I do like and use: Azos and Mykos are microzae and beneficial fungus, Botanicare HydroGuard protects roots in soil and DWC. I use Mammoth P in all my grows. Other than this I use a vendors entire line only on their schedule for what I am doing. As to the strength, the vendors charts are a beginning point and for many strains or phenos it is too strong but not all strains or vendors. So I have a system where I start seeds at 1/4 strength for the first week then 50% for the next and I continue to increase by 10% each week until tip burn is observed then back off 10%. This gets you to where the plant likes it not just blindly following the chart.

Do not forget there is NPK in your starting soil so this must be accounted for.

 

[Waira]

thanks guys for your help!

Para', seed to seed you will see minor to major differences in many aspects about the strain, including nutrient tolerances, growth aberrations, etc.,... in part this is why one is acting up while the other is on point,... I'd lean toward a bit of N-tox too, but I'm not 100% on that, other things can cause the bowing, especially in young plants,... if you had sharper tip-end clawing, I'd be sure but you don't,... Mind what other "hidden" sources of N are in your line-up... AN is notorious for this, like that Ca-Mg supp' at 4-0-0... the rub: if you dilute too much trying to avoid N-tox, you also gyp the plant on all the other important nutes as well, not a wise trade,... you may have to do some custom blending for a while until they are larger; leave out the Ca-Mg for the one, or find another low N# Ca-Mg... this young, in decent soil, you can likely skip it for a couple-few weeks....

 

[Paramagic]

The obvious problem is N toxicity. I tried to look up the starting analysis of your soil and nothing on the website? is the NPK ratio on the bag?
The true watts for your LED light is 115w so it is not likely to be a problem at 12". If the plant begins to stretch too much lower the light to 15".
I also see the beginnings of P or cal-mag deficiencies and this can be that the soil is just too hot (too much N) or it can be a PH problem? Stop feeding - only water with PHed water 6.5. What is the source of your water? Do you know the starting PPMs of your water?

Over feeding out of balance nutrients is a common mistake for new growers. Many - NOT ALL - nutrient vendor feed schedule charts are just too much for many strains especially for Autos which need less. Of course this is a generalization and there are exceptions so how to get on the right track. This is what I recommend to get started.

Your going to get a lot of suggestions about how to feed your plants. IMHO it is best to use a vendors entire line ONLY. They spend millions of dollars developing nutrients to work together to achieve the best possible results. It is all about liebig's law of the minimum. When you understand this you will understand why you should not mix-n-match your own. The only exception to this rule is when you have deficiencies (it won't happen often if using nutrients correctly). There are a couple of additives I do like and use: Azos and Mykos are microzae and beneficial fungus, Botanicare HydroGuard protects roots in soil and DWC. I use Mammoth P in all my grows. Other than this I use a vendors entire line only on their schedule for what I am doing. As to the strength, the vendors charts are a beginning point and for many strains or phenos it is too strong but not all strains or vendors. So I have a system where I start seeds at 1/4 strength for the first week then 50% for the next and I continue to increase by 10% each week until tip burn is observed then back off 10%. This gets you to where the plant likes it not just blindly following the chart.

Do not forget there is NPK in your starting soil so this must be accounted for.

Thank you for taking the time to reply with so much info and knowledge .. I do not know the PPM of my water but the source is from the tap honestly .. as far as the overfeedng goes, I could definitely understand how that can be a common issue with us newbies but thanks to you all I think we have a great foundation to start! Thanks again and I will be taking all of this advice for this grown and in the future!

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

@Paramagic Your going to find that a few tools will make growing indoor cannabis a whole lot easier. I am probably the cheapest farmer on this site. I have learned the hard way, lost seedlings, dead plants, lost time, poor yield if I even got that far, wasted electricity.................. you get the point. When I finally invested in a few good quality tools things turned around. The tools I am talking about are a PH pen, An EC pen (not TDS) and a soil PH probe. A PH pen will let you adjust the PH of your fertigation liquid. An EC pen will tell you how strong your fertigation fluid is and finally a PH probe will tell you what the PH is in the root zone of soil where it counts. You also need to know the temperature and humidity in your grow space. I know it sounds overwhelming at first and it is expensive to buy good tools. The reward is worth the trouble.