Lighting Introducing The Cannon, a 240 Watt powerhouse brought to you by BlackSailMarket.com

[Black Sail]

Really 37.5 watts per sq ft, my average watt per sq. ft. in one of my 16 sq ft. is 18.75 watts per sq ft and the big space 84 sq ft is even less that just a tad over 9.25 watts per sq ft and I grow some big plants under that wattage. I'm a noob but seems like a big difference in wattage from what my current wattage per sq ft.

Cant wait to see this in action @SOOTDAWG when ya firing this baby up and how big is your space for testing

How's it going man? Yeah that guideline is based off of the old Growmau5 method, 600 watts to cover a 4' x 4'. With high quality COBs that would put you at about 1000 PPFD. That's where you start to see a big dropoff in returns from more light (unless you're supplementing CO2).

(Credit to 420 Magazine for the chart)

My recommended coverage areas are based around maintaining that 1000 PPFD and maxing out the space. That's awesome that you're getting good results at lower wattage, at 20 watts per square foot you could use one Cannon to cover a 3' x 4' area!

If you're using 300 watts of good COBs then your 16 sq. ft. area is in the 500 PPFD range. Not bad at all, and if you want to try raising the light levels a bit I think you'll get a solid increase in yields. Happy growing brotha! :smoking:

 

[Dabber]

How's it going man? Yeah that guideline is based off of the old Growmau5 method, 600 watts to cover a 4' x 4'. With high quality COBs that would put you at about 1000 PPFD. That's where you start to see a big dropoff in returns from more light (unless you're supplementing CO2).

View attachment 956828 (Credit to 420 Magazine for the chart)

My recommended coverage areas are based around maintaining that 1000 PPFD and maxing out the space. That's awesome that you're getting good results at lower wattage, at 20 watts per square foot you could use one Cannon to cover a 3' x 4' area!

If you're using 300 watts of good COBs then your 16 sq. ft. area is in the 500 PPFD range. Not bad at all, and if you want to try raising the light levels a bit I think you'll get a solid increase in yields. Happy growing brotha! :smoking:

for explaining

 

[Black Sail]

Update from October 1st:

Sooo, we killed a sprout. I blame Grace, she blames God. We've started over with 3 girls in 1 gallon pots, so it'll be way easier to regulate the soil's moisture levels while they're getting established. We let the taproots get a little longer this time before planting (1" - 1.5"). In about 14 days we'll transplant into 5 gallon containers.

"Why do we get back up? So we can fall down again" -Batman's Dad

I've been thinking about it and I'm pretty sure we'll put the light to way better use by growing more than one plant. Can't wait to see what this S.O.D.K. from Mephisto Genetics can do!

 

[Mizzo81]

Good luck with the grow

 

[Tony21]

Thanks man! The efficacy at full power (240 watts) is 2.0umol/J.

The HLG-240H-C2100A has a phillips head screw recessed in its face with a cap over it. So yeah you just turn the screw to adjust the current, down to 50% power. I've definitely thought about it but I'm not including the screw driver atm. I can set it to 200 watts or whatever you want before I ship it, otherwise it'll come set at 240 watts.

I went with the A version because HLG drivers 240 and below don't turn off from the dimming signal, they only go to 10%. The A version goes to 50% (120 watts) which is a comfortable level for working in the garden. Dimming from 50% to 10% isn't useful enough to warrant the added cost of a potentiometer.

I'm waiting another month or two before I put out the exact model of the chip, this is a tough industry and I want to get a running start. My specs are 100% on point, you could actually use them to figure out what COB I'm using. Here at Black Sail fucking around with specs will get you keel-hauled:smoking:

Hey man very cool reply, I like it. I know a little about your line of industry, so fair game to you. I did make a low school guess about the chip so I'm probably the wrong citizen to do that so I'll stick me pipe in and batten down 3618 hatches :smoking:

Dimming is an old fashioned screwdriver you say, nothing wrong with that, they're hard to break. I saw a similar COB light, DIY, had a knob and a watt display attached to the bracket, it looked kinda real handy

Why talk about w/square foot when DLI is whats important and decides light cycle?

Keel-hauling scallywags who fly 3 sheets to the specs, aye I say, after that they walk the plank

 

[Tony21]

And yeah, good luck with the test grow

 

[Black Sail]

Hey man very cool reply, I like it. I know a little about your line of industry, so fair game to you. I did make a low school guess about the chip so I'm probably the wrong citizen to do that so I'll stick me pipe in and batten down 3618 hatches :smoking:

Dimming is an old fashioned screwdriver you say, nothing wrong with that, they're hard to break. I saw a similar COB light, DIY, had a knob and a watt display attached to the bracket, it looked kinda real handy

Why talk about w/square foot when DLI is whats important and decides light cycle?

Keel-hauling scallywags who fly 3 sheets to the specs, aye I say, after that they walk the plank

Hahahaaa what's up player? Have you seen season six of Star Trek: The Next Generation? It's the best one I've ever seen.

Why Watts/Sq. Ft. ? That's a fucking excellent question man, no easy answer. LED's are a new language that can't really be put in terms that I know every grower will know. If you know the efficiency of the light is in the 2.0-2.2 umol/J (same thing as PPF/Watt) range then 37.5 Watts/Sq. Ft. is a great guideline for maintaining 1000 PPFD.

You have to ask that other question though, what's the PPF of this light? Not the PPFD at 6" away over 1 Sq. Ft. People are learning but shit like umol/J and PPF vs PPFD hasn't worked its way into common knowledge yet. It's complicated shit man, it takes a lot of time + hard work to get a handle on all of it.

So it's a pain in the ass for everyone and I'm trying to help. I'm making on an LED buyer's worksheet that should be a great resource. 3-4 simple questions should be all it takes to keep anyone from getting lied to about an LED fixture again.

Growmau5 has really inspired me to offer up as much knowledge and educational resources as I can. He's doing the cutting-edge innovation thing better than I ever could so I want to focus on reinforcing the basics. I'll have the worksheet up soon, let me know what you think. Have a good one brotha:smoking:

 

[Tony21]

Startrek, season 6, funny you should say that, because the other day a couple of Klingons came by, wanted to know if there is any Cardassians hiding in the jungle and some Borg has assimilated a plant in the far quadrant. Dunno why you think season 6 is any good, all those aliens are nothing but trouble :smoking:

Yes, photons and their ways are slippery customers, like a piece of soap in the shower, just when you think you have a death grip it scoots off again haha.

Agree some grow light sellers exploit the complicated science to hoodwink and deceive, probably shanghaied by Beelzebub and a viper, but hey ho and a bottle of rum, a good worksheet will set their sails flapping. Some are on here, quite a few actually, better man the gunwales haha

Personally I think the best way to measurethe iis DLI at a given distance. So I got 4 PAR meters to measure that but since nobody really know what the ideal requirements are, it's not really possible to works your way backwards from there. There is another thread where light guys are asked to explain light requirements, no idea why since it is the breeders who should now that, haha betcha many of them don't even know what DLI means.

I run a mix of cree 3590 and citi 1825 both best bins and 26 cobs in total for now, all single spot fixtures like the cannon, covering some 8 m2, and can get anything from 15 to 60 plus mol/day depending where I measure. Moving a sensor just a few inch let alone more, in any direction and the difference is huge.
So until better info is available from the people who produce the strains about optimal light requirements and best light cycles(for Autos) I'm winging it with the sensors each side of my nose haha

Here's some shots from the suspected hideout of Cardassians and Borg mayhem, the 3590s is each running 60-65 w and the citi 1825s 145 w, lights are in 3 groups running staggered 18/6, so minimum 2 groups are always on

 

[Tony21]

Here the other thread
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/...s-24-0-20-4-or-18-6.3691/page-47#post-1897144

 

[Mizzo81]

How da babies doin.