New Grower Honey's Journey

In what I have learned so far it depends what fertilizers are in your soil. Usually 9 out of 10 its just water for the first 2-3 weeks until you see your true second set of leaves. I' am a newbie myself. Hope this helps
which soil did you use ?
 
Need some help. I been exploring led lights and I came across this however, being a noob I have no idea if one will be enough for a 2x4 gorilla grow tent. Any help will be appreciated. If these are the right ones I will be ordering for my next grow so please anyone using led an is experienced please let me know. I got a killer deal but I didn't want to jump in the pot of boiling water until I know for sure one of these bad boys will be enough. So, here is the info about them followed by some pictures.

High Power LED Grow Light Panel with UV/IR Light, Full Spectrum, 594pcs 5730SMD Chip, AC 85~265V, Perfect Lighting for Greenhouse Hygroponics and Indoor Plant Flowering Growing (Color: Multicolor)

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I am really anxious to get what I need. But I am as dumb as a doorknob she it comes to numbers and size for growing cannabis. I'm looking for something I can use during veg/ flowering the whole life of the plant. Will this work for three 5 gallon pots in a 2x4 tent?

Thanks

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Iv seen this light don't go for it because it uses smd chips epli or cree chips are best for the price of that there's better out there honey
 
Quick update.... I usually don't believe in making a batch of nutes an using the same batch for two to three days but I am baby feeling these ladies right now. I did a mix of my mg quick start for bloom some liquid seaweed an some camg+ as that's still a problem. I'm feeding two shot glasses at a time. Tomorrow I'll give two shot glasses of water then two shot glasses of my mix the day after that.
I also noticed some tips of my Berry bomb curing up. Tempnis perfect an lights are about 4" high. I am using the t5 which recommend 2-3" above plants I did the extra inch because I was nervous of them burning.
I also noticed their starting to put on weight. Its rather slow but today is quite noticeable maybe there coming around.
Here some pictures of what I've found waking up today
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Forgot to mention. About two days ago these bottom leaves we're so dry an dead an covered in the brown spots. I took them off and in 48 hours I got new leaves and buds. I don't think they will get very far since I'm so far into flower but I thought that was kind of cool. She's letting me know, hey I am still here with you and doing my thing.
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The burning on the leafs will probably be from the pest solution
 
Agree, seen these and thought they were pretty cool. They do have a strip on the side where you can see inside. I guess these would be good if you didn't want to stash your jars in a dark place. But idk about you, I deff couldn't have my jars on a shelf lol

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The reason there dark is buds supposed to be cured in a dark place away from direct light those jars are perfect but pricey
 
I couldn't hold back, everything I been through with these ladies I went all out tonight. I ordered the go box line, Mars 300 led two of them, a good Ph meter an it comes with a meter for ppm. I don't know much about ppm but I see everyone talking about it so it's a good to have so got it thats a plus I also got Ph up and down and found smart pots for 3$ each 5 gallon. That was a steal. Now I got to wait and get the roots organic soil. @Ripper how high does the led need to be from the plants? Also using the go box line up I hear members talking about using half of the recommendation feeding schedule on the go box...... should I do this? And I'm thinking starting around week 3? During the first three weeks should in just use water or water and camg+? I am starting to get antsy and excited for the next grow lol

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Good for you im proud of u digging ure heels in learning from mistakes and going again.
Here's my motto AS HUMANS OUR CHARACTERS ARE BASED ON HOW WELL WE GET BACK UP AFTER FALLING
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This will help with ppm scale but study study and more study ure using a whole new setup so new problems anything just pm me
 
Good for you im proud of u digging ure heels in learning from mistakes and going again.
Here's my motto AS HUMANS OUR CHARACTERS ARE BASED ON HOW WELL WE GET BACK UP AFTER FALLING
View attachment 558219

This will help with ppm scale but study study and more study ure using a whole new setup so new problems anything just pm me
Thanks

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Good for you im proud of u digging ure heels in learning from mistakes and going again.
Here's my motto AS HUMANS OUR CHARACTERS ARE BASED ON HOW WELL WE GET BACK UP AFTER FALLING
View attachment 558219

This will help with ppm scale but study study and more study ure using a whole new setup so new problems anything just pm me
How do you lower the ppm of your water during different stages?

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How do you lower the ppm of your water during different stages?

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Heres how you can understand how to convert EC / PPM =


  1. Answer: To obtain an approximate sodium chloride TDS value, multiply the EC reading (in microSiemens/cm) by 1000 and divide by 2. To get an EC value, multiply the ppm reading by 2 and divide by 1000. Thus, if your EC is 1: 1*1000/2= 500 ppm.
Here's an online converter =

https://4hydroponics.com/site/convert-ppm

EC = Electrical conductivity

PPM = parts per million

If your using tap water then you will already have a base PPM (lets say 300 for an example), when the plant is young most people will only feed tap water as the plants will feed from the trace elements/nutrients that are commonly found in tap water. This is why people are reluctant to add nutes in at an earlier stage as the concentration will be too high in combination with the tap water. If you use RO water (reverse osmosis) it has a PPM/EC of 0 and a pH of 5 which gives you room to work with in regards to being able to add nutrients and feed your plants as soon as they pop up. As far as I know 200-250ppm is good for week 1&2 which is why you generally wouldn't add feed to tap water that has a ppm of that already.

This is just my loose grasp on the situation, hope it helps
 
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