Grow Mediums Hippy Fish's Stone Dragon - The Insomnia Slayer in RDWC

Hey TX .I recon your PH is a bit high dude .They may do better if you kept it just under 5.8 through veg imo :Sharing One:
 
Really? Around 5.8? Is that better for autos or just Dragons? These are Black F4s. What would be the best top and bottom of the bracket?

I'm taking notes. When Hydro God speaks...
:grat:

Thanks Bud!
 
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Ok, the babies are much better today.
So here's what happened IMO...

They developed what looked like a manganese problem during the first week with yellowing from the stem side of the leaf out toward the tip. Fert damage usually starts from the outside edges inward and the damaged areas can get a little "crisp", so this was weird as it's way too early for mineral issues. Figured it had to be fert cuz Dragons are N sensitive and after testing the ppm, it was at 200 and change when it should have been around 80 max. I had added no fert yet, but because I recycled the hydroton, leaching was the only possibility.

After changing (and chucking) the hydroton and completely flushing out the system, I replanted. Later the pH wouldn't balance. It kept diving from 6.0 to 5.3 or so over night. After that happening twice, I remembered reading that Dragons were calmag hogs and realized they were sucking up the base I had added when I overshot the mark with pH down on setup. Every time I added base..poof..gone in a day. I added 20 ml (for 9 gallons) of calmag and off they went! They're really cranking now! I'm going to be pre-loading calmag any time I do Dragons from now on.

As for the pH thing, I think I may use that as an indicator for when to start adding calmag BEFORE a plant shows sign of deficiency. Less stress that way. I use 20 ppm RO water, so no initial minerals in the water. Overshoot with pH down then balance with Up. If the pH starts nosediving, they're scrounging the base for calcium.

In a nutshell...

peace.gif
 
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Ok, the babies are much better today.
So here's what happened IMO...

They developed what looked like a manganese problem during the first week with yellowing from the stem side of the leaf out toward the tip. Fert damage usually starts from the outside edges inward and the damaged areas can get a little "crisp", so this was weird as it's way too early for mineral issues. Figured it had to be fert cuz Dragons are N sensitive and after testing the ppm, it was at 200 and change when it should have been around 80 max. I had added no fert yet, but because I recycled the hydroton, leaching was the only possibility.

After changing (and chucking) the hydroton and completely flushing out the system, I replanted. Later the pH wouldn't balance. It kept diving from 6.0 to 5.3 or so over night. After that happening twice, I remembered reading that Dragons were calmag hogs and realized they were sucking up the base I had added when I overshot the mark with pH down on setup. Every time I added base..poof..gone in a day. I added 20 ml (for 9 gallons) of calmag and off they went! They're really cranking now! I'm going to be pre-loading calmag any time I do Dragons from now on.

As for the pH thing, I think I may use that as an indicator for when to start adding calmag BEFORE a plant shows sign of deficiency. Less stress that way. I use 20 ppm RO water, so no initial minerals in the water. Overshoot with pH down then balance with Up. If the pH starts nosediving, they're scrounging the base for calcium.

In a nutshell...

peace.gif

I'm now running my systems for at least three weeks before planting a seed in it...so I can monitor the PH swings. I feckin HATE HYDROTON! Went with coco/perlite/hydroton on bottom
 
021415
Day 28

Temp: 92F
Water: 80F
Rh: 26%
pH: 5.9
ppm: 488

Moving right along! Not much else to say!

021415 betty.jpg

021415 bertha.jpg

:Growing:
 
Really? Around 5.8? Is that better for autos or just Dragons? These are Black F4s. What would be the best top and bottom of the bracket?

I'm taking notes. When Hydro God speaks...
:grat:

Thanks Bud!
Lol no hydro god brotha ,just think PH below 5.8 through veg is better than above 5.8 .Your stats say your @ 5.9 & that's to high for babies imo :Sharing One:RH is the mid 20's isn't ideal either bud ,throw some wet towels in there or something maybe :goodluck:
 
021715
Day 31

Temp: 86F
Water: 77F
Rh: 20%
pH: 5.8
ppm: 490

Again, not much to say...they're growing pretty fast. Yesterday ppm was around 440, but now is back to 490. Not sure what that's about. We're running at around 15% nute rate using GH Grow, hence the tip burn on the lowers, but that'll be less an issue as they go along.

Question: should I "roll back" the counter from when they started growing again to kind of compensate for the time they were in limbo (about two weeks)? More like day 15 or 17 rather than 31?

Betty
021715 Betty.jpg

Bertha
021715 Bertha.jpg
 
HOLY SHIT !!!!

When did that happen??

After checking the pix, it seems sometime on the 12th or 13th.
Around day 25-26...that's about right from what I've heard.


its-a-girl.gif


021815 Bertha.jpg

021815 Betty.jpg
 
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Your plant is flowering. Already. It happens sometime with Autos. I have a MUTANT (she's flowering BIG). Nurse her through, but start planning your next seed.
 
Dammit.
Another dead end run. Can't be helped. I know that launch is critical with Dragons if not all autos(?). No way these are going to make anything worth 90-100 days of effort. I'm tempted to go back to just bubbler DWC, but I can't learn RDWC by doing that and I gotta have that to go commercial when Texas goes med-legal.

Might as well let them go until weekend after next (not this one, March 7). It'll take that long to crack 2 new ones, plus another week in solo cups. I may have to hold off til after spring break. Kids'll be here 2nd week March.
censored.gif


Done bun can't be undone...
(Now where the hell did I hear that from?)

Shit.

:ama:
 
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