for veg you always want the N to be larger than the last two numbers and in flower you wasnt the P K to be larger, i would also guess if you dont have a PH meter, and if it broke it might not of been working right,also you might think about getting a tds so you can watch your PPM's . and JM sent me this it might help some
I know i am going to rattle some cages with this post but i ain't trolling. Would mind hearing your reasoning for why the fact that compost buffers PH should be put aside
sorry guys but i've been doing side by sides and monitoring my PH closely in soil as i was always under the impression that you could ignore PH in soil until you guys started making me think twice about it. I've gone back to my old thinking and have archived the PH pen and the PH up and down.
This is all well and good but at the end of the day if you go with a decent compost and decent nutes it's going to start with a standard ph of around 6.5-7. As compost buffers PH whatever you throw at it, after the next plain watering the compost is going to be back at it's starting level. The way i see it is that when i am adding my boosters the PH shoots up, the plants takes all the nutes it likes from that range as they are the most available, as the compost buffers the PH down the plants take up each nute as they pass the sweet spot. When i add my grow or bloom nutes the PH drops drastically, like right down to 4.5. It goes in and the compost quickly raises it and by the time of next watering its back to 6.5. So it doesn't matter to the plant that all nutes have to available all the time, as long as every now and again the PH rises and falls or vice versa through the range.
The photo's I have just finished and PH'd some to keep it a stable 6. were outperformed by the plants that i ignored PH in. The Auto's are showing no difference at all.
I've ran a batch using just Plant Magic Compost, Plant Magic Old Timers Organic Grow and Bloom and nothing else(PH up and down on some). I believe the main reason for yellowing of fan leaves that a lot of people put down to nute problems are in fact just the lower leaves not getting enough light to be useful so are being dropped, or they have had a bit of damage and the plants decided it's got to go or in my case, i was underwatering. I've discovered if you let the pot get so light that its virtually dry but the plant is showing no signs of wilt, your plant will suffer random nute defiency as they need enough water in the soil to take the nutes up. No yellowing on plants getting nothing more than strong light, soil, water, grow and bloom.