Help Please?!?!

[Robbie762]

Obviously my problem is the leaf spots. They are a white widow auto and bubbleicious auto, both from Nirvana. The white widow is 53 days and the bubbleicious is 42 days. Growing in soil ( Ocean Forest 50%, Happy Frog 25% and perlite 25%). Growing in a 4X4 tent with an HLG 550 v2 rspec. Watering about every other day, about 3/4 of a gallon of 6.5 ph water. Both have had Dr. Earth Flower Girl added on this past Saturday. On the previous Saturday, I added 2 tbl. spoons of Big Bloom per gallon. When I watered this past Saturday, I added 4 ml Cal/mag per gallon. I think my light may have been a little close too, I recently raised it to 30" from 24", running at 3/4 power. Also I've ordered a new ph meter that should be here tomorrow, I've questioned the reliability of the cheapo that I had from the beginning.

Can anybody see if I'm missing something? Or screwing up?
Need more info? Just ask.....
Please help, if you can...

 

[Proph]

Looks like a calcium and a magnesium issue.. Are you using nutrients every time you water? Are you using tap water? Do you have a ppm meter? How much Dr earth did you use? How many times have you used Cal mag?

The Dr earth has several calcium sources already in it.. Was there a reason you added Cal mag?

The issues you Are having have been going on for a while now. I don't see many healthy green leaves left. Something you are missing is a ppm/tea meter. I can't stress enough the importance of knowing the ppms of the nutrient mix, as well as the ppms of run off when there's an issue. Ph is important, but that's less than half of the story.

 

[Robbie762]

Looks like a calcium and a magnesium issue.. Are you using nutrients every time you water? Are you using tap water? Do you have a ppm meter? How much Dr earth did you use? How many times have you used Cal mag?

The Dr earth has several calcium sources already in it.. Was there a reason you added Cal mag?

The issues you Are having have been going on for a while now. I don't see many healthy green leaves left. Something you are missing is a ppm/tea meter. I can't stress enough the importance of knowing the ppms of the nutrient mix, as well as the ppms of run off when there's an issue. Ph is important, but that's less than half of the story.

Thank you for having a look......I am not using nutrients every time I feed, I've fed one time with Big Bloom about 2 weeks ago, and then added dry Dr. Earth this past Saturday. I've only added calmag twice to watering. And only started it then because I changed to an LED light from 400w hps and was told the plants would need calmag supplement under LED. Actually the issues only started to be noticeable within the last week.
I don't have a ppm meter.
When I did use calmag, I only used a little less than 4 ml per gallon of water

 

[Proph]

Thank you for having a look......I am not using nutrients every time I feed, I've fed one time with Big Bloom about 2 weeks ago, and then added dry Dr. Earth this past Saturday. I've only added calmag twice to watering. And only started it then because I changed to an LED light from 400w hps and was told the plants would need calmag supplement under LED. Actually the issues only started to be noticeable within the last week.
I don't have a ppm meter.
When I did use calmag, I only used a little less than 4 ml per gallon of water

To make sure I'm understanding correctly.. This plant has been given nutrients twice in about 60 days? 2 tbs of Big Bloom 2 weeks ago, Dr Earth top dress this past Saturday, and 2 waterings with some cal mag.. Is that about right?
So what is your planned feeding routine, or growing style? Are you trying to grow organically or are you going to use bottled nutrients?

Ocean forrest alone should get you through about 4 weeks without feeding.. But you cut that soil with a lighter soil with less food, and added more perlite.. So you may have had about 2 weeks worth of food in the soil. After that, its on you to provide the food source. Top dressing with dry amendments requires time for the dry amendments to break down and become available to the plant. The nutrients are not immediately available.

I say that the issue has been going on for a while because plants don't start off with that light green color that your plants have. If you look at the bottom leaves in a couple of your pics, you can see the darker green color that the leaves used to be. The affected leaves will lose color and then develop the rust colored spots. The fact that the issue looks to be starting at the top of the plant (newer leaves) and working it's way down (older leaves) tells us that the issue is with an immobile nutrient. Knowing this, I can tell that this has been going on for a while. It also takes days for the issue to spread to other leaves.. You should be concerned with any change of color in the leaves, and try to address it asap. The sooner the better.

So if you haven't been feeding this plant something with an NPK value, its safe to say that the issues are likely caused by under feeding. The dr. Earth you used is probably just starting to break down and become available so that should help a bit.. The bottled calmag on the other hand, is immediately available to the plant.. So it's possible that the only real nutrients that the plant has taken in recently is the Cal mag. But based on all of the info you provided, Im leaning towards it being related to under feeding.

 

[Robbie762]

You’re

To make sure I'm understanding correctly.. This plant has been given nutrients twice in about 60 days? 2 tbs of Big Bloom 2 weeks ago, Dr Earth top dress this past Saturday, and 2 waterings with some cal mag.. Is that about right?
So what is your planned feeding routine, or growing style? Are you trying to grow organically or are you going to use bottled nutrients?

Ocean forrest alone should get you through about 4 weeks without feeding.. But you cut that soil with a lighter soil with less food, and added more perlite.. So you may have had about 2 weeks worth of food in the soil. After that, its on you to provide the food source. Top dressing with dry amendments requires time for the dry amendments to break down and become available to the plant. The nutrients are not immediately available.

I say that the issue has been going on for a while because plants don't start off with that light green color that your plants have. If you look at the bottom leaves in a couple of your pics, you can see the darker green color that the leaves used to be. The affected leaves will lose color and then develop the rust colored spots. The fact that the issue looks to be starting at the top of the plant (newer leaves) and working it's way down (older leaves) tells us that the issue is with an immobile nutrient. Knowing this, I can tell that this has been going on for a while. It also takes days for the issue to spread to other leaves.. You should be concerned with any change of color in the leaves, and try to address it asap. The sooner the better.

So if you haven't been feeding this plant something with an NPK value, its safe to say that the issues are likely caused by under feeding. The dr. Earth you used is probably just starting to break down and become available so that should help a bit.. The bottled calmag on the other hand, is immediately available to the plant.. So it's possible that the only real nutrients that the plant has taken in recently is the Cal mag. But based on all of the info you provided, Im leaning towards it being related to under feeding.

You’re correct on the timeline, I didn’t take into consideration the ocean forest being weakened by the perlite and happy frog. Or the dr earth taking time to kick in. I’m not try to grow organic.....I do have fox farm trio.
I appreciate your thoughts on this. Should I go immediately to the bottled nutes to help them?

 

[Robbie762]

Sounds like I should be coming up with a ppm meter to see what’s up

 

[Proph]

No worries. Dry (organic) amendments that are top dressed need to time to break down. Every bottled nutrient I have ever seen or used is immediately available for the plant to use up. At this point bottled nutes or foliar sprays would be the best way to get nutrients to the plant immediately. And yes indeed, a ppm meter will be your best friend when issues arrive. A liquid ph meter, a ppm/tds meter, and a soil ph probe are three must haves for any garden!

 

[Robbie762]

Just to update on my plants condition......Though I’m not necessarily trying to grow organic, I am wanting to limit using chemical additives and fertilizer. So I opted out of the Tiger Bloom and did a heavy feeding with Big Bloom and calmag. I put the new ph meter into service, and actually the cheapo Chinese I was using was right on the money. Haven’t got a ppm meter yet, but I will. In the end, the plants are doing much better and looking green and healthy. Original leaf spots are still there, but no additional leaves are being affected. Thant you Proph for your help!!
Lesson learned....give them what they need and they’ll give you what you want:smoking:

 

[Wattzzup]

I agree with above on cal/mg issue. If you have fox farm trio doesn’t the tiger bloom have cal and mag so if you use that it will feed everything. It’s 2-8-4 so it would be perfect for where your plant is I think.
I think the tiger bloom is organic as well. I don’t have any to look at the bottle.

 

[Wattzzup]

Keep in mind those micronutrients take a while to show up and take a while to clear.