Help Me With Seed Production

Hey im new to the site, and to Autoflowers. I have a few beans of a strain I really like and am seeking some advice on how to do a seed run with one of my last remaining beans so I can keep her around
Ive never tried to get seeds before so I would appreciate any info on:

1.How much longer to let the plant grow after normal harvest time to make sure the seeds mature.

2. Do I need to change the nutrients to help have healthier seeds. Lkke instead of using veg for veg and bloom for bloom, would yiu need to increase the veg nutes during the flowering period to help the seeds grow, or do they require a bloom feeding to grow better ?

3. If I self pollinate an auto do the F1 seeds. That you collect retain the Auto traits or do I need to backcross to make sure they remain Auto. In other words is the Auto trait still recessive in the F1 seeds from an auto plant if self feminized ?

4. How do you do backcross with an Auto ? If you didnt cross with a male and female, but only used feminized pollen, do you just make feminized pollen from the parent beforehand and store it till your F1s or F2s have grown andnd then take said pollen from the parent to cross to the F1?
Or when you do a backcross does it matter if the parent is a male or female ? Like does it make a difference if the F1 pollinates the parent or if the parent pollinates the F1?

5. Any books I should read specific to breeding and or autoflower breeding.
Do books on breeding cannabis photoperiod relate to autoflowers ? Is the Autoflower just considered a recessive gene like anything else ?

6. If you want to start making crosses with your Autos, do you need a male auto or can you cross strains with feminized pollen ?

7. I did have another question but cant remember it right now. I think it had to do with making Autos from an Auto and a Photoperiod strain. Also any advice for making an auto sativa would be appreciated. Im thinking you have to cross to an indica first.

8. How do you create Fast flowering crosses ? I know that there is a difference between an auto and a fast flowering, but I dont understand how to create fast flower.

Alright thank you for any information you can give me I would really appreciate any advice and or knowledge you can pass on to me. Even a suggestion for a good old book to read is welcome.
Stay Safe
- ✌

 

[MesaBoogie]

I've seen very little variance in my S1's.

 

[BassAce5000]

I've seen very little variance in my S1's.

Yup, mostly uniform but there is a possibility of variance.

 

[Bill.de.Cat]

So, I'm planning on starting to do some seed running. Small space to utilize so will also be using outdoors for reversing and pollen collection. Want to run 2 separate lines, 2 plants of each line. Top n clone each for reversing outside. Desired outcome of indoor plants is selfing, crossing with same line, crossing with both of other line on separate branches. Will be doing the pollen painting in separate location. Bagging the branches to keep em all separate. I want to know how long it takes the pollen to set on the pistils to produce a seed . Will be spritzing like crazy to deactivate the "extra " pollen to try to prevent unwanted pollenation of other branches and returning to tent.. might work or be a total cocktail up.

 

[Olderfart]

So, I'm planning on starting to do some seed running. Small space to utilize so will also be using outdoors for reversing and pollen collection. Want to run 2 separate lines, 2 plants of each line. Top n clone each for reversing outside. Desired outcome of indoor plants is selfing, crossing with same line, crossing with both of other line on separate branches. Will be doing the pollen painting in separate location. Bagging the branches to keep em all separate. I want to know how long it takes the pollen to set on the pistils to produce a seed . Will be spritzing like crazy to deactivate the "extra " pollen to try to prevent unwanted pollenation of other branches and returning to tent.. might work or be a total cocktail up.

I have only done seed production once, so take my comments accordingly.

The relevant part of my experience is that I pollenated only two branches on my seed plant, the remainder of the plant was left to produce bud. I got lots of seeds on the pollenated branches, and not one anywhere else on the plant. So, it can be done without pollenating anything other than the target branches. I didn't bag the branches, I just applied the pollen with a Qtip (not a brush - brush bristles could throw pollen around more than the Qtip does). I did the pollen application indoors well away from my grow tent, and made sure that air movement in the room was as close to zero as possible (forced air vents being one potential source of mischief, breathing, coughing, sneezing etc being others). I also sprayed the pollen application location, especially the table surface beneath the plant and pot sides and surface of the soil immediately after applying pollen - the idea being to kill off the pollen that inevitably dropped below the target branches. Unfortunately, I can't recall exactly how long I left the pollenated plant before spraying with water prior to moving back to the main tent - I suspect that I left it overnight , likely for at least 24 hours. It had a separate grow light in the pollenation room. The pollen plant was grown in the same spot earlier. I am reasonably sure that the pollen will do its job in a matter of a few hours but I can't guarantee that.

One potential difference to what you have in mind is that I only applied one strain of pollen to the seed plant - applying two and avoiding the wrong pollen on a branch might be a bit trickier. I suspect though that as long as you do the application carefully in a room with zero air movement and spray down the pollen application area with water immediately after application, you should be ok.

If you pollenate outdoors, I think you will need to apply pollen in isolation bags enclosing the target branch and inject the pollen into the bag rather than apply with a brush or Qtip. I considered doing this in my project, but decided to try the simpler approach given the ease of controlling the indoor environment. Whatever you do, I would not move pollenated plants back to the grow room before spraying the entire plant down with water.

Good luck with it, and if you get contrary advice from more experienced seed makers, you should probably take it.

 

[Bill.de.Cat]

I have only done seed production once, so take my comments accordingly.

The relevant part of my experience is that I pollenated only two branches on my seed plant, the remainder of the plant was left to produce bud. I got lots of seeds on the pollenated branches, and not one anywhere else on the plant. So, it can be done without pollenating anything other than the target branches. I didn't bag the branches, I just applied the pollen with a Qtip (not a brush - brush bristles could throw pollen around more than the Qtip does). I did the pollen application indoors well away from my grow tent, and made sure that air movement in the room was as close to zero as possible (forced air vents being one potential source of mischief, breathing, coughing, sneezing etc being others). I also sprayed the pollen application location, especially the table surface beneath the plant and pot sides and surface of the soil immediately after applying pollen - the idea being to kill off the pollen that inevitably dropped below the target branches. Unfortunately, I can't recall exactly how long I left the pollenated plant before spraying with water prior to moving back to the main tent - I suspect that I left it overnight , likely for at least 24 hours. It had a separate grow light in the pollenation room. The pollen plant was grown in the same spot earlier. I am reasonably sure that the pollen will do its job in a matter of a few hours but I can't guarantee that.

One potential difference to what you have in mind is that I only applied one strain of pollen to the seed plant - applying two and avoiding the wrong pollen on a branch might be a bit trickier. I suspect though that as long as you do the application carefully in a room with zero air movement and spray down the pollen application area with water immediately after application, you should be ok.

If you pollenate outdoors, I think you will need to apply pollen in isolation bags enclosing the target branch and inject the pollen into the bag rather than apply with a brush or Qtip. I considered doing this in my project, but decided to try the simpler approach given the ease of controlling the indoor environment. Whatever you do, I would not move pollenated plants back to the grow room before spraying the entire plant down with water.

Good luck with it, and if you get contrary advice from more experienced seed makers, you should probably take it.

The bag injection sounds like a great idea and as I planned on tagging each pollenated branch I should be able to keep track. Read that water spritzing/spraying would deactivate the pollen, did you use anything different. Figured it might be best to let sit out on front porch (where the chucking will occur) bagged for 24 hrs then spraying like crazy as I remove the bags before putting back in tent.

 

[Olderfart]

The bag injection sounds like a great idea and as I planned on tagging each pollenated branch I should be able to keep track. Read that water spritzing/spraying would deactivate the pollen, did you use anything different. Figured it might be best to let sit out on front porch (where the chucking will occur) bagged for 24 hrs then spraying like crazy as I remove the bags before putting back in tent.

Sounds like a good plan to me mate. When I was thinking about the bag technique, I figured that I would put dry pollen into a 20 cc syringe with the coarsest hypodermic needle that I could get, give it a good shake by hammering it on something while rotating it to get the pollen off the sides and into the air in there, then quickly injecting the entire thing into the bag before taping the injection hole. If your pollen is mixed with rice or flour, just put the combination into the syringe. Rice in there might also help get the pollen airborne when you shake the syringe. I would repeatedly refill the syringe without pulling it out of the injection hole and discharge it vigorously to extract the most pollen you can as well as stirring the air in the bag with the syringe output. you will have to be careful that you don't rip your bag open while operating the syringe. Arranging support to rigidly support the syringe while pumping it might be a good idea. Should work a treat I suspect, but I haven't tried it, and haven't come across documented records of other efforts to do it.

One final note is that it seems to me that syringes may be pre-lubricated with some kind of oil to make the plunger easier to move. If lube is present, it might cause pollen to stick to the syringe. It might make sense to disassemble and clean the syringe with alcohol before using it for pollen application, but I am just guessing - I do not know what the lube is, or if there is any there at all.

Good luck with it, if you try bag injection, documenting the project might be helpful for others here.

 

[BassAce5000]

I always spray down the branches I don’t want pollinated with some water before and after I dust the branches I want pollinated. And when I take the bag off I also spray down beforehand in case there is any active pollen in the bag.
Also, I spray the end of the bag after I’ve placed it on the branch,

 

[Olderfart]

The bag injection sounds like a great idea and as I planned on tagging each pollenated branch I should be able to keep track. Read that water spritzing/spraying would deactivate the pollen, did you use anything different. Figured it might be best to let sit out on front porch (where the chucking will occur) bagged for 24 hrs then spraying like crazy as I remove the bags before putting back in tent.

Oops, I forgot to answer re. spraying. It is my understanding that ordinary water is death to pollen, and that is all I used to kill any stray stuff. I would not use anything else. The risk is airborne pollen getting where you don't want it. One part of the bag process that might be a challenge is getting the bag off without causing any pollen on leaves in there getting airborne as a result. I would deal with this by spraying the rest of the plant down before removing bags, and then spraying down each pollenated branch as each bag is removed.

 

[Olderfart]

I always spray down the branches I don’t want pollinated with some water before and after I dust the branches I want pollinated. And when I take the bag off I also spray down beforehand in case there is any active pollen in the bag.
Also, I spray the end of the bag after I’ve placed it on the branch,

Oops, added my latest post before seeing this. You and I are on the exact same page! It sounds as though you have it sorted. I look forward to see how your project goes. Please tag me if you do a journal or thread.

 

[BassAce5000]

Oops, added my latest post before seeing this. You and I are on the exact same page! It sounds as though you have it sorted. I look forward to see how your project goes. Please tag me if you do a journal or thread.

Oops, added my latest post before seeing this. You and I are on the exact same page! It sounds as though you have it sorted. I look forward to see how your project goes. Please tag me if you do a journal or thread.

I have a hard time cutting down a good male, especially if I’ve stress tested it. I have vials stored all at the bottom of my fridge just waiting to be chucked

And Same here! Keep me posted @Bill.de.Cat