:smoking: Yoz, thanks for the gratuitous close-up sick-porn!
.... I think the cumulative inputs just caught up with a few of them-- nute burn, K toxicity ... not all the plants are going to be the same for tolerances, and each pot itself will be it's own little ecosystem-- recall what I said about being outdoors, in heat/strong light, and the strong water drawing/rapid transpiration for leaf cooling, which pulls nutes along with it = forced into the tissues = nute burn,... you did the wise thing already-- flushing! I'd probabaly do it all of them, checking pH and ppm of run-off to see what the deal is in there,... did you test the soil pH yet? (--calibrate your meter recently? - there's an improved run-off test and calculation method in the sticky section here; I'd
definitely do this for all of them, just to see who needs flushing first... maybe, some don't need it so badly.. and this method does have to water them very heavy... you'll see when you read through the steps!)... Also noted, I do see all-over signs of heat stress in those up-curled edges, again, a contributing factor as mentioned above,... One note about
direct run-off testing: it's not an accurate reading, because of the altered pH inputs that went in, especially after feeding, or even recent,.. you'll see in the test it wants you to water well initially with your usual water, pH'ed if done so regularly, then let it soak for an hour,... then use RO/DI water for final pour, because it has no buffering minerals in it to skew the results,... the idea is to take the best "snap-shot" of the typical everyday pH in the soil; r-o testing is iffy to begin with, which is why I recommend a quality probe-type soil pH tester,...