Guy Smiley Organics (Fully organic Soil/AACT building)

yeah T5 give a far better start if you watch your distances and temps and all that,but for the first 1-2 weeks(sometimes longer if they are smaller plants) and I have always had a far far stable and secure start.colors and everything,PLUS it give you that warmth as well when its winter to cover the tops of the pots in a comfy warm glow :D then a warming mat underneath LOL ya cant beat it. Im gettin terrible germ rates on those Stone Dragon Special Reserve Regs i planted.LOL THAT SUX TOO! i'll replace them with some fems if I have to.Black Stones I guess. MAN I was looking forward to them. 3 pots-6 seeds. 1 pot a seed is up and mutated and the other isnt up yet. pot 2 nothing is up and pot three one is up looking the best but again a lil wobbly in the mutation dept. LOL! kinda bummed about it. maybe the soil is too hot but all others are doing GREAT except those.

But i love T-5's WAY better than HPS/LED//the best T-5 light is the one similar to me but has the bulbs closer so you limit the hot spots more. but the one I have is fine too. sometimes smaller T-5 units too. i have a 4 ft 8 bulb and two of the 2ft four bulb ones

yeah I also used 189 Proof Everclear. I live in MD so 190 is illegal and they made 189 LMFAo dumb right? but good enough,so I dumped a fat 2.5 cups into the machine and four ounces of all kinds of amber and various trim,and in 8 hours(instead of their standard 4hr recipe) i'll have a glass of something with a half dizen drops to see what the world is like :D.
 
I had a friend who brought up a product to me that I had heard of and heard good things about, but can't speak on it, so I wasn't sure if you or anyone who has been following your awesome threads has used "Recharge". Here's the link to the stuff:

http://www.realgrowers.com/product/recharge/

It's supposed to have everything that Great White has, plus more bac. herds as well as powdered molasses and humic/fulvics.. I wasn't sure what to tell him other than I'd check it out.. Stuff looks good but is a little pricey however their claim is that if used properly, you won't need to use typical teas throughout the grow, so now I'm sorta skeptical, I suppose..
 
Recharge is alright,its not as killer as people think imho. I like Biowar and Soil Life or Inoculate [HASHTAG]#1[/HASHTAG] and then if you want to go with higher end stuffs.imo,for me?! i would go with a pound of Supreme growers myco blast line.soil blast too. I just bought the Kelp blast 0-0-10 AND the myco compost tea in a bottle literally. can be added to teas also.concentrated forms of these things unlike others. the Myco tea is 0-0-6 i think. so its excellent for flower and dosing in transition too. but rechange imho is over rated a bit but does do alright. i would use in place of that the [HASHTAG]#1[/HASHTAG] inocualte and powder molasses solely and one of these teas Im talking about and you'll literally be able to make your own that will out perform the recharge too. but again its not a terrible product and works ok. i just used it for some time now and the results from using it alone are ,kind eh a bit LOL nothing substantial from all I have seen. been using ot for about a year now or a lil less
 
That is the exact feedback I was looking for!!!!! Thanks a ton!!!!!


How much does a lbs of the Supreme Growers Myco Blast treat??
 
uhh we'll depends. full strength for flower or a fully established plant or stable genetics too,you could use full strength but initally I would go for not much more then 3/4 strength or 2/3 of a dose is ok too. so withautos or slightly sensetive plants potentially you could stretvh it a touch further man.


Myco Blast
Single Application Mycorrhizae Formula

Myco Blast is a highly concentrated mycorrhizae inculant designed for a single-application use. This kelp-based inoculant is 100% water soluble and is instantly activated once diluted with water. After dilution and application into the root zone of the plant, Myco Blast instantly coats the plants' roots providing immediate inoculation and longevity to the application. For best results, use Myco Blast with every transplant.

Ingredients

Myco Blast is a kelp-based product that contains 4 species of endomycorrhizal fungi (Glomus spp.) and 4 species of beneficial bacteria (Bacillus spp.), and fortified with Trichoderma.

Glomus intraradicies…………........................... 22.22 prop/g
G. mosseae…………....……...……………......… 22.22 prop/g
G. etunicatum………..……..………...…......….... 22.22 prop/g
G. aggregatum……………..………………......... 22.22 prop/g

Bacillus subtilis……………………........ 100,000,000 CFU/g
B. pumilus…………..………………….… 100,000,000 CFU/g
B. lichenformis………………………..... 100,000,000 CFU/g
B. megaterium……………………....…. 100,000,000 CFU/g

Trichoderma harzianum………….…..... 100,000,000 CFU/g

3.0%..................... Kelp (Ascophyllum nodosum)

Directions For Use
Dilute and mix Myco Blast powder into water thoroughly until fully dissolved. Following dilution, evenly saturate the root zone of the plant. Start at the crown or basin of the plant and drench the soil 360 degrees, slowly working your way outward till the entire root ball is saturated. Undiluted product (powder) is good for 2 years in a cool, dry place. Once product is mixed with water, activation commences immediately and product solution must be used within 24 hours.

Mix Rate
Dilute 1 tsp. (5 g) of Myco Blast per 1 gallon of water or 2 oz (56 g) of Myco Blast per 1000 sq. ft. and irrigate the soil.

Application Instructions

Indoor Application:
Dilute 1 tsp. (5 g) of Myco Blast per 1 gallon of water and drench soil. Apply once on seedlings, rooted clones, young plants, and after every transplant for best results.

Outdoor Application:
Dilute 4 oz (112 g) of Myco Blast per 25-50 gallons of water. For optimal results, inject 1/2 gallon of Myco Blast solution into the root zone (rhizosphere) per plant site. If irrigating through pump up or broadcast sprayer, use a spray pattern for deep root feeding. Apply Myco Blast 2 - 3 times throughout the growing season, at minimum once during the spring and once during the fall.

Seeds:
Dilute 1/2 tsp. (2.5g)/1 gallon of water and soak seeds for 12-24 hours prior to planting in media. After planting, saturate media with Myco Blast mixture to ensure proper inoculation. Follow below nursey recommendations for seedlings and media containers.

Nurseries:
Use as soil drench in porous media or mix into potting soil
1 pound treats approximately:
- 3,500 sq. ft. of nursery flats
- 450 x 4" containers
- 220 x 1 gallon containers
- 95 x 2 gallon containers
Mix with water to effectively deliver the above application rate of powder per container (ie: 1g/4" container, 2g/1 gallon container, 4.7g/2 gallon container)

Turf:
For a single application, 1 lb (454 g) will treat 2,500 sq. ft. of porous soil, new installations, or after core aeration.
Optional application usage is 2 oz (56 g) - 4 oz (112 g) per 1,000 sq. ft., 2 - 3 times during the growing season. Water in thoroughly
 
well next batch of soil is ready to be turned in just shy of a week. so ill get to it later or tomorrow. it'll hold if I let it breath a little each day in the dark. no light on the surface life as of now.



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So after I made my last batch of Heisenberg tea (basic stuff, Hydroguard, Ancient Forest, Molasses, Great White, bubble for a while, etc..) I only ended up using half of it to water my plants, so I had this brilliant idea; why not [pour the remainder into the tubs I have of the old soil from the last 3 grows??] So I did.. I haven't checked it in 2 days, but I gave it a solid stir, as well as added my veggie scraps/old fruit to the pile and mixed it well.. I figure, while it's freezing outside, I can still do a little bit of composting inside and who knows, maybe in a couple months, that soil will be good enough to use again!! Does that seem like an accurate assessment??


I have seen a couple guys have some success with literally pulling the main stalk out of the soil, turning it a few times by hand and replanting w/ little to no deficiencies or issues.. Sorta had me intrigued, so I might try it with some of the bag seeds I have had for a while.. I have a theory on sexing seeds prior to planting, so I can use the soil and the seeds to at least get them to sprout and straight into 12/12 to see if I was at least on a relatively positive path to accurately predicting seed sex just by looking at certain features.. Obviously, it's not going to be 100%, but the closer I am to that, I'll be happy..
 
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