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hey Spiffy'! .... geez, you can't get a break huh,
... OK, seedlings this young won't have defc. issues, the cotyledons have enough building blocks for them for about a week or so, depending on medium nutrient load,... It's fairly common for folks to add very weak nutes to the final moistening of the coco as well,.. Since you're in coco, adding at least Ca-Mg is mandatory to maintain that cation buffering i was telling you about,.... recall, coco is a Ca hog, Mg to a lesser extent,... this is the cation exchange capacity deal you may have read about concerning coco,... But this issue looks like the coco may not be well rinsed, prep'ed or just not aged enough by the makers,.. coco has a shitload of native Na and K in normally, so it needs to be aged, rinsed, and then cation buffered/rinsed to purge the Na and excess K, replaced by Ca and Mg,.. this is why coco hogs it, a strong binding affiliation (stronger charge),.. so much so that it'll keep the Ca from the plant until sated, then the "buffering" (not pH in this case) of these cations will release and rebind readily,.. straight water can upset this balance... Aaaanyway, if the coco isn't tuned up well, excess Na and sometimes, K can leach out and cause these burn-like symptoms,... I've not worked with coco myself yet (not that good for outdoors/photo's IMO),.... so I'm not that hip on what the good brick-type brands are,... have you looked into the coco section here? ask around there,... otherwise, get the loose bag stuff,.. Canna Coco is excellent, Royal Gold Tupur, Botanicare, Roots organics,...
...coco is more like hydro than true soil growing in some ways,... coco breathes and holds/releases moisture very well, so much so that most folks don't need to use anything bugger than 3 gal pot max, many do 1.5-2 gal and can grow monsters in them, well beyond what soil can do,.. but the caveat is higher maintenance water+fert'ing,... drain to waste is easiest, meaning you pour through enough each time to get about 15% run-off,.. this keeps the nute salts from building up to high,... otherwise, drip systems are great,... Oh! Check out the Autopot section here, this is almost like hydro as well, with a nutrient reservoir and feeds from the bottom,... very KISS and the results have been fantastic! It takes some dialing in, but there's lots of help and hints about there,... you can even go super KISS and use Biotabs in this system, all organic...only hitch there is Biotabs is EU only, but talking to our Rep' here, he can have it shipped to you,.. it's not cheap, but overall likely less $$ than buying 12 different bottles of f'ing Advanced Nutrients stuff! ..... Hydro is very labor intensive my friend, just a heads up,.. tinkering with the water chemistry is a constant daily thing, and the learning curve is steep as a newbie with it,... everything happens faster in hydro, good and bad! Do lots of homework first if you decide to try, and definitely talk with folks here,... I'm not a hydro grower myself, I like me soils too much! 
f'ing botrytis! Spiffy, if this keeps happening, try a product called Actinovate,.. might be hard to find in-store, but amazon will have it,.. it's bacterium that eats fungal cells! harmless to everything else though,... otherwise, decent air flow, warm temps, and not overly high RH% will help reduce attacks,... I'm still thinking that coco is problematic!
