New Grower Gorilla Glue Autos in a 4x4 tent. New grower. Advice welcomed.

[Suki]

Watering continuously below ph of 6 in soil is going to end up causing issues in the long run. @Mañ'O'Green can explain better than I could though.

 

[Suki]

Coco can be treated as hydro using the lower ph water, but soil really should be watered in the 6.3-6.8 range to maintain a proper ph buffer.

 

[Peacefulgarden]

The pH of the water you water with should take your soil/growing medium into account. If growing medium is 5.5pH I would water with 6.5pH and then do testing.

This is all soil or coco watered with 5.7 pH start to finish.

ever since I am using chart that says 6.0-7.0 I have nothing but problems.

from grow book for cannabis I have, see text under graphs, 6.0 optimal soil and hydro. Book by Ed Rosenthal.

 

[Peacefulgarden]

Coco can be treated as hydro using the lower ph water, but soil really should be watered in the 6.3-6.8 range to maintain a proper ph buffer.

I don’t know how you can know the pH to water with, without testing or already knowing the pH of the growing medium and/or testing

 

[Suki]

Here is the response I got re this from @Mañ'O'Green when I asked about this for myself:

That is not depicting lock-out. It is the optimum PH range for the elements uptake. It is very accurate for Soil. The green area shifts to the left starting at 5.8 to 6.8 for peat based substrates; then 5.5 to 6.5 for all forms of hydroponics.

Yes if you get your PH out of range all manor of ugliness happens. That is why we pay so much attention to it. If you always water and fertigate good soil with PH 6.4 - 6.6 your soil will stay in range. The quality of the soil is important here. To monitor the soil PH get an Accurate 8 soil probe or the clone of it or a Blue Lab or other high quality probe. The cheap ones don't work.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

 

[ItzSticky]

Here is the response I got re this from @Mañ'O'Green when I asked about this for myself:

So if I maintain a pH of 6.3 -6.8 whenever I water, the soil should stay within that ideal buffer zone?

I'll have to add a soil ph meter to my list.

Do you guys test your pH/PPM of your water first, then add nutrients, then test again before you add to your plants?

I wont have to worry about adding nutrients for the first couple of weeks but would like to know how that process goes, as it sounds like whenever you add nutrients to your water the PPM and pH change.

 

[Suki]

So if I maintain a pH of 6.3 -6.8 whenever I water, the soil should stay within that ideal buffer zone?

I'll have to add a soil ph meter to my list.

Do you guys test your pH/PPM of your water first, then add nutrients, then test again before you add to your plants?

I wont have to worry about adding nutrients for the first couple of weeks but would like to know how that process goes, as it sounds like whenever you add nutrients to your water the PPM and pH change.

I test after. Everything you add is going to change both values, so testing before isn't going to give you much. Have you pulled your local water report?

 

[ItzSticky]

I test after. Everything you add is going to change both values, so testing before isn't going to give you much. Have you pulled your local water report?

Yes I have. From the minerals you mentioned that I should watch out for I believe I only noticed the two chlorine agents.

 

[Suki]

Yes I have. From the minerals you mentioned that I should watch out for I believe I only noticed the two chlorine agents.

If you'd got chloramine, you'll want to treat your water with .050g of absorbic acid per gallon. Chlorine can be gassed off by letting it sit for 24 hours.