First Grow Freaking Huge Auto

around 800, was as high as 1200 a week ago.

that is a very strong nute dose........ 1200ppm = Ec2.4.................... huge nute burn going on, confirmed by very dark green fans, over nitrogen furted................ and eventually she broke out in nute burn brown dot rash leaf rash......................... seedling s start at Ec 0.3..............and at final flower max nute push inc Pk13/14, a max Ec of 1.2 to finish off flowers, you are twice that power................. i would recommend an Ec pen for proper nute salts control........................ i would flush with pure water for at least 10 days with flush water temp at 23-24c minimum................ to get some of the nutrient deposits out of the flowers, so they are not pure fertilizer when dried and combusted, harsh on the throat otherwise....................... keep room temp at 26-28c....... ALR
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:yeahthat: ..... Also, what's your tap water's base pH and ppm's? ..... it's flush time mate, too much nute ion load in there,... start with 2-3x pot volume of clear water, pH to 6.5,... check the run-off pH and ppm's every half gal or so to see how it's correcting,... stop when you are in target range for pH and ppm's.... last pour though should have apprx. 1/4 strength nutes in it to restore some balance....
other notes: last year I had a horrible batch of Vermisoil, absolutely FUBAR, nothing I did fixed the issues,... I changed soils and it was a 180 turn-around in results! Try new soil next round, stay away from Foxfarms soil, and IMO, Vermicrop for now,... bad batches happen, but once a soil goes shit-show on me, I never go back to that brand! Look into Royal Gold Kings Mix, their first true soil, (coco specialists usually), nice and light/breathable, hold pH well,.... Roots Organic original is OK,.... if you can find it, Sanctuary Soils are good too (Empire Builder, Victory Mix)....
 
...how are the symptoms behaving? I do see normal lower fans fading, so it's not all nute burn/toxicity symptoms,... you can give a heavy watering with RO/Di water, or anything very low ppm; this is to generate some significant run-off, about 15-20% of pot volume run-off... collect the last cup in something clean, and test it for pH and ppm. This will give an idea about in-pot pH and how badly loaded it is in there,.. if it's more or less OK, flushing may not be needed, but if it is badly off pH, and like 1000+ ppm, go ahead and flush.....
 
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