New Grower First Grow Ever (NY)

[Danielsaaan]

Weeks 1 - 3. Once you've started your seeds and they break the surface of the soil, they are in their seedling stage. The first set of leaves to appear will usually be single fingered, followed by a second set that may still be single fingered or perhaps 3 fingered. Once that second set appears growth will start to accelerate as the new leaves provide more photosynthesis. This process will continue, more new leaves, faster growth. Depending on the type of soil in use, mild vegetative nutes can be introduced at week 2. By week 3 most plants will start to show their sex. Males will start to produce pollen sacks and females will display pistols.-



Weeks 4 - 6. The plants are now entering a pre flowering stage. During this time the plants should exhibit explosive growth, often as much as a new set of nodes and 1" vertical growth a day. This is the time when they will gain most of their vertical height. Many people make the mistake of switching from vegetative to flowering nutrients at this point, assuming that since they see flowers it must be the proper time. This is incorrect. If the switch to flowering nutes is made at this time the vertical growth will stop and the plant will put it's energy into producing buds. If you need to keep your plants small, or want them to finish earlier, they by all means switch nutes at this point. But if you want to get the most out of your plants continue feeding vegetative nutes until you see the vertical growth slow and stop. Depending on the strain that will usually be sometime during week 5 or 6.-



Weeks 7 - 9. By now vertical growth has stopped and the switch to flowering nutrients has been made. The buds will start to fill out and put on weight, becoming hard and tight. Pistols will start to change from white to brown, orange, red, etc. By now the plants will also have developed a strong smell. Toward the end of this phase the large primary and smaller secondary fan leaves will begin to turn yellow. This is an indication that the plant is moving toward the end of it's life.



Weeks 10 - 11. At this time flowering nutes should be discontinued and only plain pHed water fed to flush the remaining nutrients from the soil and improve the taste. Yellowing of the fan leaves will continue as the plant draws the stored energy from them. Eventually they will die and fall off. By that time that the smaller leaves that come from out of the buds will also start to turn yellow. Then it's time to harvest.-

I think I may have even pulled that from this forum. I don’t recall. But, it will help you just starting out. There are a few things I’ve learned I don’t agree With but, it helps to understand what’s going on and when.

When my plants Are seedlings I literally only give them water ph’d at 6.2. After about 21 days depending on how many nodes there are I will water them once til runoff. After that I feed 1/4 to 1/2 does of nutes every watering. I use fish sh!t every watering and add molasses maybe once a week or 10 days.

Thanks bro! Just sprayed them again with water/thrive concentrate. Watered a little bit around the stem as well. Maybe a cup per plant. Followed the recommended dosage on packaging. I’m so paranoid to overwater. But I also know that you don’t want your soil completely drying out? How do I prevent this if I’m just spraying with a spray bottle? Am I good so far? Sorry for so many questions!

 

[2budz]

Thanks bro! Just sprayed them again with water/thrive concentrate. Watered a little bit around the stem as well. Maybe a cup per plant. Followed the recommended dosage on packaging. I’m so paranoid to overwater. But I also know that you don’t want your soil completely drying out? How do I prevent this if I’m just spraying with a spray bottle? Am I good so far? Sorry for so many questions!

Ask away. I always spray all the topsoil with a spray bottle but one thing I recommend is watering the pot to runoff before ever dropping the bean. That way just misting the top traps a lot of the water in the pot without it being to wet. I’d get a spray bottle and mist the topsoil rather than just pouring water in the pot.

I was to quick to respond. Yes, spray bottle is the way. But spray the whole top of the pot not just around the seedling.

 

[Danielsaaan]

Ok awesome. That’s what I’ve been doing. Also saturated the soil with water til runoff 24 hrs before dropping the beans, so I think I’m doing alright. Appreciate it!

 

[Lil Dab]

I use grandmas molasses.

I use npk industries RAW molasses. but i do like the sounds of that yummy too

I’m so paranoid to overwater. But I also know that you don’t want your soil completely drying out? How do I prevent this if I’m just spraying with a spray bottle? Am I good so far? Sorry for so many questions!

I follow this theory which I wholeheartedly trust :

"What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and the roots and microbes will die there. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. There is an art to watering."

That being said something to keep in your mind i don't remember where i read it but it stuck with me . "you can't overwater by watering to much but can watering to often". let it dry back SOME my 5 gal grow bags will hold enough water for the first week if not two weeks. water VERY slowly

 

[Danielsaaan]

I use npk industries RAW molasses. but i do like the sounds of that yummy too



I follow this theory which I wholeheartedly trust :

"What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and the roots and microbes will die there. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. There is an art to watering."

That being said something to keep in your mind i don't remember where i read it but it stuck with me . "you can't overwater by watering to much but can watering to often". let it dry back SOME my 5 gal grow bags will hold enough water for the first week if not two weeks. water VERY slowly

Thanks man. I’ll keep this in mind…

 

[Lil Dab]

At the risk of clogging your thread some more. one more thing that may help. then i'll be quite again

If you haven't found this yet then you should to go to the knowledge base and start reading the pinned threads they all have helped me in one way or another.

Tutorial - A word on Nutrients

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis. Salts: Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based...

www.autoflower.org

 

[Shugrows]

Here they are at Day 8. Still spraying them a couple of times a day. Water soon I imagine? Upped the brightness on the light to 50%.
View attachment 1443618View attachment 1443619

Nice job looking good.

 

[Danielsaaan]

At the risk of clogging your thread some more. one more thing that may help. then i'll be quite again

If you haven't found this yet then you should to go to the knowledge base and start reading the pinned threads they all have helped me in one way or another.

Tutorial - A word on Nutrients

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis. Salts: Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based...

www.autoflower.org

Nah man. No worries. Appreciate all advice/insight! Keep it coming

 

[Lil Dab]

Hydro store

Countrymax? They have products better prices i assume too. The hydro store around me was way overpriced. They wanted 40$ for A bag of OF.

 

[Danielsaaan]

Countrymax? They have products better prices i assume too. The hydro store around me was way overpriced. They wanted 40$ for A bag of OF.

A local shop. I noticed was expensive too! Some stuff you can get cheaper though. Pros and cons I guess