Grow Mediums Eyes on Fire Does..Kindsoil Live Testing for the CannaZone

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oh yeah man,thats where i think we are getting our threads crossed.I thiught we all were supposed to do one or two pots exactly as per directions for the Kind Soil.which Im doing. and the SNOG for example is done with thee same materials just mixed a little different.and the others will be essentially the same materials but done ever so slightly different is all.i still have three or atleast two pots to do and once the MSA is done for good or bad ill redo some others in ever so slightly different ways WITh the same basic materials. does that make more sense? LOL! but thats what I thought we were doing is all. is that ok?or do they ALL need to be run layered and left alone?
 
and you'll have it,even two potentially.i wanna do the layer again but use more and possibly a topping of the extra soil for sized pot as a top coat so all together have the same exact amount of soil (Kind Soil) used per pot. but yeah man you'll get it.good,bad,ugly,awesome or not LOL!
 
well as i figured and touched on a cpl weeks ago was the top coating or turning in of the top coat rather,but since I havent done any of that( i wanna repair her soo bad its killing me LMFAO) shes following the path i figured she would.fully yellowing out and will(if she finishes at all fully)pencil out on the flowers. BUT, ive heard from many that ,or rather to say ive seen talk of that its neaither for them or potentially not a soil product.WELL take my SNOG.. id have to look back as to what brand of plain soil I used(frign MS) but that and kind soil solely as well as thee same exact water. now take into account that the Stone and NW works DOES usually require a much more involved cal and carb regiment.but I thought about doing a rice wash water but will possibly let her fizzle out for a few more weeks and then chop her LOL! but again,we'll see. but the SNOG was mixed very differently. which is why i have always been against the layerimng theory. since thats really all it is unless your using it for HEAVY feeders and a boosting layer but spikes are really what thats for or topping with a heavy dense food source(ie:soil) ... but mixing it with the rest of the soil for the proper amount of gallons and soil ,what that does is it lets is not drain out( as fore mentioned caustic condition at the bottom NEEDING to be gotten rid of lightly-ie;rinsed away) and feed a bit more evenly and naturally. now the dragons would do fine but I would personally add a fist full of rice per pot and let it feed on that for a handful of days THEN plant like my SNOG ,is what Id do if I had another MSA bean. but alas I do not,OR an alternating carb feeding( rice wash water n cal mag or stand alone) and the cal mag and then plain sips of water in between and that would do fine for a MSA of similar large strain,that of course desires a higher feeding regime and/or carb foods. but thats my thoughts on that thus far. i still have two or even three to do yet. ill be planting soo'ish. this coming week or weekend maybe.

so in short it a capable soil but needs light tweeking for solid auto grows and no issue auto grows and without the marking and the spotting on leaves ,or much less as noted on my SNOG. but again we'll see.I'm not done yet. but its a perfectly capable soil. :)



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Dang fellers,some seriously serious seriousness is foot,some real beauty be abound these parts.well I still have enough for another plain KS grow but i do have one made at a fat 2.5 LBs with an extra cpl of fat scoops prolly 6-7 cups or so of plain used and light mix auto soil..essentially to make just a FAT layer verses a small one. less apt to rinse out.,its really really close to what is described on the sheet O How and What too's :D

AND i also made a boosted soil with MY stuff and mixed in 2.5 LBs of Kind Soil,and a fistful of wet rice,and used my GO cal mag bottle as the plug size and reference to a [HASHTAG]#5[/HASHTAG] pot,so it was puuurty cool,and a lil ironic i suppose ;) but I expect the [HASHTAG]#5[/HASHTAG] pot to do sooo damned well I could possibly hardly stand it LOL! or not. and if the FAT layered one inst up to snuff,again,I do habe enough for one more regular 3 gallon layer again. but ill do a small auto in that one when I plant my other tester beans sometime this week. anway,thanks for the kind words everyone.sorry i sound like an ego jerk I suppose is how ppl see me,Im just excited ,and I think a lot about it. so ill not say much from here on out other than water..lol and pics. have a good'un :D



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ok well just as an FYI fellas, unless acids are on the heavy side its abput the living bit in the soil that cycle the foods and nutes. organic or non organic. so acids should play very little(unless there is as mentioned something thats reacting potentially) role unless its too much or any impurities in the water as well. @Waira bro, you need to read a book called adding biology by Elaine R. Ingham and Carloe Ann Rollins both PH.D. and it covers this in organic and non organic ways from foods,life and the action and bi producta of said things and how they react in living or non organic ways. its interesting.much PH unless water dictates in a bad way(watering being bad) you shouldnt have to do much of anything assuming all proper balance and life are present.ALL should read this book.small but packed full of info. EVERYONE reading this would benefit greatly in this book I promise. or my name aint uncle chuckles :D
 
I didnt show a pic but i got a fantasmo super girl popping up(fully up three days ago after less than 24 hr to the soil ) and looking forward to it. havent grow it myself yet but its a looker.LOL love to see your x mas tree man LOL!
 
is that the one you top coated? looks like to pulled some foods from the soil nicely. I wanted to do that to my MS LOL nice lady there man. I hope mine looks as good. a wee bit of phatness going on there man
 
read this book since it'll cover all of these things covered here. toxins,chelation processes and removal and the like. acids n ,well everything. eating of heavy metal you name it,biology remains king!! and all you need to do is swing the PH close(NOT EXACT) to where you need or give it a buffering helping hand like baking soda. and the living soil should almost always do the rest unless hard chems are present then you handle accordingly,but again, swing it close.and Im betting your results will improve. this is not a question answered to anyone specific ,this is just a general statement fellers,and ladies :D

but the snog was out and the MSA was too for a wee drink last evening and took some fresh of the morning pics for yaz. beaty man,smells perfectly floral sweet with that lemony OG mellow ya know n love. just a sweet mellow OG smoke. sorry the MSA was done the way she was but Ive already fixed that issue. and in all honesty I could see this technique being used across the board since it'll sole the leaching issue.less space or room to move and re pick up the leached or moving foods if leaching at all will not be removed from the soil or media as easily. bacteria and fungi retain the greatest amount of nutrients in their biomass,therby ending leaching nutrients from soil, and soilless media

the life and simple balance will eat the toxins exuded n so on,including but not limited to heavy metals ,heavy metals are toxic to organisms at 3 to 10ppm (0.01 to 0.02 mS)..


the yellowing is a prime example of leached foods in a shallow life bed.essentially thats whats been created with an over abundance of roots and feeding roots.only minimal life in that pot with a lack of foods available.

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