DIY EB Series Gen 2 Strip Light Build

Put this into your amazon search bar:
DROK Digital Multimeter DC 6.5-100V 20A Voltage Amperage Power Energy Meter DC Volt Amp Tester Gauge Monitor LCD Digital Display with Blue Backlight Measuring Volts Current with Built-in Shunt
That's what I ordered, I was checking out my fluke multi meter and realized it only had an AC Amps setting, so I got into one of those internet worm hole searches and stumbled upon that. I'd link it but I don't think we're aloud to link stuff on Amazon here. That's the full description on the Canadian Amazon page so not sure if it will be worded differently elsewhere.

How would this be wired in to the lighting may I ask? Simple install?


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I took this image from the Amazon photo descriptions and just changed the wording from "battery" to "..driver.." and "light" to "...strip lights..." hope this explains it and yes it looks extremely easy to setup. Not 100% if it's going to work but based on the information available it seems like the perfect fit for my build with amps and voltage to spare.

DROK.jpg


drok 2.jpg
 
The thermal tape came in today so the following is today's update, I got cut a little short as I ran out of 18 awg wire right at the end and the hardware store was about to close, so I'll have to finish up the wiring tomorrow.

Getting things taped up, tape is 25m x 20mm x 0.15mm. Decided to keep the white paint on brackets as it was very smooth and provided an excellent mating surface I didn't want to mess up with sanding. Also placing the tape on the strips first is definitely the way to do and provided a clean and easy install.
taping up.jpg

Next I cleaned up all the ends, ocd was starting to ramp up right about here..
clean ends.jpg

Next I marked the uncut side of all the brackets 3/4" in or what appears to be 2 cm for you full metric converts as that was about as close to having the strips centered as reasonable.
34.jpg

Next I laid things out from top to bottom it goes 35,50,35,35,50,35,35,50,35,35,50,35 (00k). Towel is just there to keep from scratching the table.
laying out.jpg

And then laid things out better for my ever increasing ocd
ocd.jpg

Then it's time to stick 'em down. Hold one end high and slowly stick it from one end to the other.
readystick.jpg

I drilled a pilot hole and test drilled a screw, I really don't like the way it looks so I'll see how the thermal tape holds things for a bit, I'll prob er on the side of caution and just screw things down but yeah it's ugly.
screw.jpg
 
Now it's time to start the wiring, I decided to do 4 strips at a time with 18 awg wire twisted into a 14 awg mainline wire. Don't be cheap like me and just get the wagos because it is a rather large pain in the ass trying to get 5-6 wires to twist neatly before sticking a marret on them.
routing.jpg

Example of an ugly twist, been a few years since I wired houses so I'm a bit rusty.
bad twist.jpg

and a decent twist for some minor redemption.
nice twist.jpg

The drop ceiling braces have quarter inch holes perfectly suited for routing the wire through, like I said it almost seems like these things were made for the strip lights. Though I will put a silicone sealant in the holes to prevent chafing once the wiring is all completed and tidied up.
cleanwire.jpg

Finished for today, would have liked to have gotten further with it but things happen. Should be getting the DROK meter in the next couple days so she should be complete and fired up by weeks end.
dayfinish.jpg
 
Hhmmm interesting! Any idea what the difference is between the open CT and the closed CT version?
Cheers

Loving your lights BTW, keep up the good work!




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No idea what the difference is, just went with that one as it appeared to be the easiest to deal with due to the internal shunt.
 
Grabbed a bit more wire today and finished that part of the build up. Just waiting on the meter to come in so I can tidy things up and I need to figure out what I'm going to do to hang it. Thinking of just using some spare 14/2 wire to make some hangers then suspend it with my normal ratchet straps. Some nice cable hangers that you see come with the factory made led's would be nice though.

Driver mounted with self tappers, drilled a small pilot hole first.
driver.jpg


Dremmeled out a hole for the power switch, was a pretty rough hole that took some force to get the switch in. The plus side is that switch is never coming out and I don't need to figure out a way to mount it solid. I never said it would be pretty.

plug.jpg

plug 2.jpg


Marret taped up and hidden, I taped up all the marrets on the build. I would suggest the wagos to others though as they do provide for a nice clean install.
plug tape.jpg


Test wired up, the Drok Meter I'm waiting on will be connected to these 4 wires.
testwire.jpg


Drum roll please ..... and she fired right up. I have it turned down quite low and still holy crap that is bright. Absolutely love having the on/off switch would highly recommend for anyone doing a diy build.
test fire.jpg
 
The meter came in today and hooked up and worked as expected. The light is working great and holding my empty grow space at 25 deg. It also fit absolutely perfect between 2 of the rails and will require zero mounting modifications. This light build really went better then expected. I just need to find an inline DC fuse or some sort of current limiting resistor per strip now for safety measures and she will be more or less done.
drokback.jpg

drok front.jpg
 
Took temperature readings today after running for 5 hours. Measured temperature at 3x Tc points on all 12 strips.

Tc1: 31-33°C
Tc2: 36-40°C
Tc3: 32-33°C

Meanwell Driver Temps:

Top:43°C
Sides: 45°C
Bottom: 48°C

Temp increased in relation to moving towards the center of the light with the highest temps noted on strips beneath the driver @Tc2.

Voltage, Current and Watts have stabilized at the above numbers.

EB Gen 2 Strips being run at 1.13A or 81% of max.
HLG-320H-20A being run at 13.62A or 91% of rated max. (A type drivers generally can be turned up higher, I maxed this driver out at 16.2A so we are theoretically running at 84% of true max power amps).
 
Nice man I've got a 280mm DIY eb/samsung build and I love it I also run 12 eb and I run 6 Samsung for a total of 230w how do you like urs? I've never been able to use hps due to it producing so much heat I'm on 2nd story with no AC and it gets hot and humid the other day was 95 with an index of 115 I'm mostly wondering about density and structure
 
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