Hoping your getting better from the flu!! Pulling up a seat for the show.
Dutch Passion Dutch Passion AutoBlackberry Kush, AutoEuforia, AutoUltimate in Alien RWDC Pro
- Thread starter true
- Start date
Hang tough and drink your OJ...
Always darkest before the dawn!
Thanks guys
True mate; Hope yuz feeling more like it now man. just read through to hear bro. This room smaller than your first right ??............ much more economic to keep at 26c/Rh45.
Got a couple of things i have spotted during the read above True.
The intake 12' filter box i have used before. The filter insert, is quite thick, "material" (cannot Buy Replacements) and will slow your air input by 30% or greater. And will silt up in a matter of less than 2wks True. The 12' out take fan is 900 m3/Hr ? or more ?
How to get round this ? Putting 2no intake filters on a "Y" piece would help, but wont negate the issue of airflow, and consequent reduction of flow as silt builds. Your management system will detect this.
I made a plastic frame, rubber edged, same snug fit, and covered it with, Nylon 150 micron (Sieve) mesh, dishwasher proof on temps. Then made 4 spares. As at 150 microns, wing bourne, sucked in "Mites" are 500 microns or above, at juvenile stages. So light they can be flow in on strong intakes. All other insects that can cause issues are greater in size. Mites are the smallest threat. usually brought in by cats, dogs, then the final journey to room is usually "Human".
On the outfall side of intake, 'Cold Air" intake inside room should be fitted with 15-20 denier (Preferably Seamed) stockings, 2-3 number with the neck stretched over the final cold air output into the room. So when you remove the box filter, no risk window is opened.
The 150 nylon micron mesh to intake box will only reduce the flow by 8-10% comparatively. Two of these set ups on a "Y" piece will render the intake a lot less hassle, and increase flow and increase the amount of time to the "Silt" up. Air intake blockages lead to increased heat. And the "Cold Air" intake should allway's be mounted as near the top of the culture space as possible. With a small fan, blowing the room hot air into/alongside the cold. Anything not mixed (Cold Air) will fall, (Cold Air Sinks) to the floor. In doing so aids the mixing process.
make sure the cold air coming in, dose not enter the room onto a warm or hot surface. As this will cause condensation. A film of condensated vapor, which is a spore breeding ground for Botrytis and other black and white mildews. These spores indigenous are in air, and only need a vapor film and nute to fire up, in certain environ conditions. Which leads me to my last comment.
Re the budrot discussion;
A perfect culture space is "Round" in shape. We deal in rectangles. Where dead air flow zones inevitably exist. if you are changing out the air volume of the space, in the order of a minimum of 10 times per hour. You have won half the battle. Untill, "Summer" when outside RH rises dramatically above 21c, and can be as high as 80%. here lies the problem. Intake air is to high in RH.
The Botritis spores and others, cannot grow in RH less than 60%, temps have to be 26c plus in addition. UV sterilization works better in water than air. If you have ever seen a fish pond UV tube unit that has water flowing past uv 260nm, then you get the jist. The water is in close proximity to the UV light unit. This isant the case with UV light emitters though. UV sterilizes best up close. UV is dangerous to human eye sight and skin health to.
A UV tube can be fitted to the cold air intake, sterilizing the air in to space end of at 260nm. In summer high RH periods, the air needs to be "Cooled" before entry to culture space. Rendering down the RH to below 60%. 60% RH or above, is the spores germ window. The nute concentration inside the flowers is greater than on the outside, and "Low Air Flow Exists" in there. As long as the RH is below 60% and temps not above 26c. You should not get the "Botty Attack". Even though the plant (DWC) is saturated in water.
I have had, one attack, mid summer, i was watering as normal, (Increasing RH), the temp was 27.9 and RH was 75-80%, for a period of 15 days. Thats all it took to germ the dread. Now i have improved air flow inside room, and through room, (Changed Out 10 Times Per/Hr), and temps do not exceed 27c. For the last 30 months (Inc Summers) i have had not re-emergence of the dread Bott. I also use bio-silicone, from day 1 to day 100. this has been an addition to the protection of the flowers, in particular large skunk flowers, (Donkey Dicks) and other aptly named flowers of size are the first to suffer. Here endeth my 10cent. Auto SK1-11 is what i was thinking of re large flowers. HB.............. you dont need good luck True. with these new auto,s just render your usual skill set, and we will have a show of how these auto can be, at there best T........... nevertheless, good luck True... subbed, HB
Got a couple of things i have spotted during the read above True.
The intake 12' filter box i have used before. The filter insert, is quite thick, "material" (cannot Buy Replacements) and will slow your air input by 30% or greater. And will silt up in a matter of less than 2wks True. The 12' out take fan is 900 m3/Hr ? or more ?
How to get round this ? Putting 2no intake filters on a "Y" piece would help, but wont negate the issue of airflow, and consequent reduction of flow as silt builds. Your management system will detect this.
I made a plastic frame, rubber edged, same snug fit, and covered it with, Nylon 150 micron (Sieve) mesh, dishwasher proof on temps. Then made 4 spares. As at 150 microns, wing bourne, sucked in "Mites" are 500 microns or above, at juvenile stages. So light they can be flow in on strong intakes. All other insects that can cause issues are greater in size. Mites are the smallest threat. usually brought in by cats, dogs, then the final journey to room is usually "Human".
On the outfall side of intake, 'Cold Air" intake inside room should be fitted with 15-20 denier (Preferably Seamed) stockings, 2-3 number with the neck stretched over the final cold air output into the room. So when you remove the box filter, no risk window is opened.
The 150 nylon micron mesh to intake box will only reduce the flow by 8-10% comparatively. Two of these set ups on a "Y" piece will render the intake a lot less hassle, and increase flow and increase the amount of time to the "Silt" up. Air intake blockages lead to increased heat. And the "Cold Air" intake should allway's be mounted as near the top of the culture space as possible. With a small fan, blowing the room hot air into/alongside the cold. Anything not mixed (Cold Air) will fall, (Cold Air Sinks) to the floor. In doing so aids the mixing process.
make sure the cold air coming in, dose not enter the room onto a warm or hot surface. As this will cause condensation. A film of condensated vapor, which is a spore breeding ground for Botrytis and other black and white mildews. These spores indigenous are in air, and only need a vapor film and nute to fire up, in certain environ conditions. Which leads me to my last comment.
Re the budrot discussion;
A perfect culture space is "Round" in shape. We deal in rectangles. Where dead air flow zones inevitably exist. if you are changing out the air volume of the space, in the order of a minimum of 10 times per hour. You have won half the battle. Untill, "Summer" when outside RH rises dramatically above 21c, and can be as high as 80%. here lies the problem. Intake air is to high in RH.
The Botritis spores and others, cannot grow in RH less than 60%, temps have to be 26c plus in addition. UV sterilization works better in water than air. If you have ever seen a fish pond UV tube unit that has water flowing past uv 260nm, then you get the jist. The water is in close proximity to the UV light unit. This isant the case with UV light emitters though. UV sterilizes best up close. UV is dangerous to human eye sight and skin health to.
A UV tube can be fitted to the cold air intake, sterilizing the air in to space end of at 260nm. In summer high RH periods, the air needs to be "Cooled" before entry to culture space. Rendering down the RH to below 60%. 60% RH or above, is the spores germ window. The nute concentration inside the flowers is greater than on the outside, and "Low Air Flow Exists" in there. As long as the RH is below 60% and temps not above 26c. You should not get the "Botty Attack". Even though the plant (DWC) is saturated in water.
I have had, one attack, mid summer, i was watering as normal, (Increasing RH), the temp was 27.9 and RH was 75-80%, for a period of 15 days. Thats all it took to germ the dread. Now i have improved air flow inside room, and through room, (Changed Out 10 Times Per/Hr), and temps do not exceed 27c. For the last 30 months (Inc Summers) i have had not re-emergence of the dread Bott. I also use bio-silicone, from day 1 to day 100. this has been an addition to the protection of the flowers, in particular large skunk flowers, (Donkey Dicks) and other aptly named flowers of size are the first to suffer. Here endeth my 10cent. Auto SK1-11 is what i was thinking of re large flowers. HB.............. you dont need good luck True. with these new auto,s just render your usual skill set, and we will have a show of how these auto can be, at there best T........... nevertheless, good luck True... subbed, HB
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Your set up is looking real pro I must admit nice job, with that type of preperation you will be virtually gauranteed sucsess. Pay this much attention to detail during your grow and you will do amazingly!
Hi there Hydrobeeny,
Thanks for advice
The filter boxes now come with replacement filters. These scrub down to 5 micron, so pretty good I think.
Im planning on adding another extraction fan and filter to mount right on the ceiling in the middle of the room.
My current fan/filter combo works just fine but Im concerned about heat build up with my new lights. Time will tell I suppose
Also the filter I have is 1200mm long and weighs a ton! It works great, not a sniff of anything leaks out but man alive its a thing to install and lump about the place. Once its expired I will use 2 x 600mm filters and link these with a Y piece to my exhaust fan.
Ive been looking into water UV filters and Im planning on hooking one up to my water res and Alien Pro System for added security in terms of water born baddies.
If I can just shake off this flu we are go for launch
Thanks Derek, fingers crossed all goes to plan.
Lift off is next week all being well
hybridhydro
Hybrid Garden Grower
Nice setup man. I too am using RDWC. Its a 8 site unit I built from scratch. Sub'd!
9bear
If I'm gonna die I wanna be high .
The man won the lottery !! No no it was the sweeps right !! :no: It looks like a lot of time , energy and money is being invested so 
I must confess to a large degree of curiosity as to what motivated this type of investment . None of my business of course .:tiphat:
I must confess to a large degree of curiosity as to what motivated this type of investment . None of my business of course .:tiphat:The man won the lottery !! No no it was the sweeps right !! :no: It looks like a lot of time , energy and money is being invested so
We would hope it is the hatching factory for the first Uk TUP cannabis Social Club. That has just been put through into legislation in the "Netherlands" after it's success in dropping illegal sales and growing in Belgium. Where the TUP Cannabis Social Club Club has met with success.
Essentially, you chip in, in Belgium and now the Netherlands, into a club, which grows you plants for you, should you wish to, transfer the bulk of the work. As you are allowed one plant each in Belgium and 10 in Netherlands each, at home. You can now pack that caper in, if you wish, and opt for a club grow !!......... in giant greenhouses nice..... HB
Here are the plants with the boys names on em !! literally, (Belgium TUP) as each member owns there plants, and "Swaps" flowers with others, for a selection box on a Friday night !!..... Thats 15 strains available to swap.............. sounds smells taste, and look good to me........... they are all at it in the Eu again !!
if Clegg & farage get there shit togeather, like the "Dutch", who nows what 2015 could hold for the community. Cant imagine the email, for the culture rota.
Your rota has come up for the TUP, this week. Monday check for defs % critters. Tuesday make up the 400ltr res for grow feed inc silicone !!
All we would need is it to be legal to grow one plant each, or per household. Then you can start a TUP Canna Club...................
Security in Uk ?? all harvest at once, or stagger harvests, in an aircraft hanger with good locks !! ??, could you use a large greenhouse for TUP in Uk ?.......
further details dutch passion site in jo's blog..HB
Cool man, what nutrients you using? Feel free to post a picture up on here, be nice to see what you built
The man won the lottery !! No no it was the sweeps right !! :no: It looks like a lot of time , energy and money is being invested so
I see a lot of grows done on a shoe string, which is fine but if you can spare a little bit more on your grow room why not..
Im pretty obsessive with getting things right and buying the right kit. That said Ive not spent crazy money, Im a believer of buy once, buy right
Thanks brother
Yea how nice would that be to manage a green house full !
Ooof 15 types, Im not sure any work would get done if I had 15 types to smoke.
Thanks for the pics my man.
Ive had a good day today, got the inlet and outlet fans and filters all up and fitted. Bloody hell those Rhino filters weigh a ton!!
Fitted 6 x 8 tube T5's to the walls for side lighting. Ive really cracked the job now.
Oscillating fans going up tomorrow, then new ducting, more sound proofing and I think we are good to go.
All being well Im popping my seeds end of the week... Hold tight everyone
