Grow Mediums Deep Water Culture Basics - Bubbleponics

[Mañ'O'Green]

Never had problems like this in soil. It could be some kind of micro deficiency but I’m changing the nutrients every week now so not sure why unless it’s the temperature. Il get a new pump soon as well, despite the troubles I have had i shall be re doing it as can’t quit it just because if had some troubles, got to get something good out of these mistakes.

Ok so no bugs! yes 8°C is definitely too cold and will stop the growth of the plant. This may be a Cal-Mag-Iron deficiency. I have never seen one quite like that. @Waira has more time looking at these things maybe he can help. Are you using a top of tank to keep the nutrient level consistent in the res? If the water level is fluctuating so is your PH. Plants also exude enzymes and other chemicals as they mature into the res changing the PH sometimes drastically. Correct the temperature as soon as you can.

 

[d.t]

Nearing the end now, what’s your flush technique? Any one use canna flush? Got some here might use.
Why does water need to be ph’d if it’s not taking up any nutrients?

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Nearing the end now, what’s your flush technique? Any one use canna flush? Got some here might use.
Why does water need to be ph’d if it’s not taking up any nutrients?

Think about bobbing for apples in battery acid or Lye neither of them would feel good would it? The plant is still taking in water and every cell is dependent upon the PH being correct to keep the osmotic pressure correct. Cells can literally explode if the PH is too far off.

I flush for 3 days in hydro with AN Flawless Finish

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

@d.t How did the harvest go? Got anything growing?

 

[Simplicio]

I've never grown any method except DWC, but am getting tired of all the work, and am looking for ways to greatly simplify it.
I ordered a R-DWC system to help lessen the work.
http://www.clonebucket.com/aquabuckets-4-deep-water-culture-dwc-hydroponic-system/

Unfortunately, there is only a 5 Gal "master" reservoir, so I'll be buying a larger bucket at the hardware store, and connecting it to the 5 Gal res with a float valve.
There exist rdwc systems that include this larger tank, but they are expensive.
Amazon product
RDWC + LargeRes + FloatValve should produce a system that can be left alone for several days, or maybe with just a daily check of pH and ppm of the large res only.

One simplifying DWC procedure I've been trying is no complete res changes.
This can be done by changing out and replacing about 10% of the solution every day.
This sounds ridiculous until you look at all the Hempys and Autopots that change nutes very little.
10% partial changes should come close to equalling a 2 week full change-out, and won't stress the plants, but it probably doesn't save total work.
But It does save the drudgery of a complete change for a large tank. My larger one is 35 Gal, and a giant pain.
Minimum trace nute levels are maintained by the addition of small amounts of fresh nutes daily.
I'll probably get around a 20 gal res and change out 2 gal per day, when able, and check/adjust ppm.
Then I'll try to discover the least frequent change that will keep healthy plants.

Another thing I've been doing is using clorox to prevent root rot, which eliminates the need for hydroguard.
Before scoffing at this, remember that professional crop growers do it.
The maker of my about-to-be-replaced Current Culture system and its nute line sell expensive, dilute clorox, that they call "UC Roots," that I had been using.
I've been adding 1 dropperful of clorox (about 1 mL) for each 12 Gal per day, and the plants seem not to have noticed.
Also remember chlorine is a nutrient for plants.


And finally, I've started using Greenleaf Megacrop (the same 1-part nute from sprout to harvest), RO water, pH up/dn, and nothing else whatsoever, with excellent results.
Nearing harvest, the growth has never been more plush.

As usual, this attempt for simplicity will probably encounter problems.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

I've never grown any method except DWC, but am getting tired of all the work, and am looking for ways to greatly simplify it.
I ordered a R-DWC system to help lessen the work.
http://www.clonebucket.com/aquabuckets-4-deep-water-culture-dwc-hydroponic-system/

Unfortunately, there is only a 5 Gal "master" reservoir, so I'll be buying a larger bucket at the hardware store, and connecting it to the 5 Gal res with a float valve.
There exist rdwc systems that include this larger tank, but they are expensive.
Amazon product
RDWC + LargeRes + FloatValve should produce a system that can be left alone for several days, or maybe with just a daily check of pH and ppm of the large res only.

One simplifying DWC procedure I've been trying is no complete res changes.
This can be done by changing out and replacing about 10% of the solution every day.
This sounds ridiculous until you look at all the Hempys and Autopots that change nutes very little.
10% partial changes should come close to equalling a 2 week full change-out, and won't stress the plants, but it probably doesn't save total work.
But It does save the drudgery of a complete change for a large tank. My larger one is 35 Gal, and a giant pain.
Minimum trace nute levels are maintained by the addition of small amounts of fresh nutes daily.
I'll probably get around a 20 gal res and change out 2 gal per day, when able, and check/adjust ppm.
Then I'll try to discover the least frequent change that will keep healthy plants.

Another thing I've been doing is using clorox to prevent root rot, which eliminates the need for hydroguard.
Before scoffing at this, remember that professional crop growers do it.
The maker of my about-to-be-replaced Current Culture system and its nute line sell expensive, dilute clorox, that they call "UC Roots," that I had been using.
I've been adding 1 dropperful of clorox (about 1 mL) for each 12 Gal per day, and the plants seem not to have noticed.
Also remember chlorine is a nutrient for plants.


And finally, I've started using Greenleaf Megacrop (the same 1-part nute from sprout to harvest), RO water, pH up/dn, and nothing else whatsoever, with excellent results.
Nearing harvest, the growth has never been more plush.

As usual, this attempt for simplicity will probably encounter problems.

A sterile grow can be done. I am not sure I would use Clorox to do it but it is not unheard of. The issue I see with what you propose is that there is no way to know what nutrients the plants are up-taking at any given time. Replacing balanced nutrients into an unbalanced reservoir will not bring it into balance. As an example lets say your plants use 5% N 8% P and 12% K over the week MC is 10 N - 5.5 P - 14.5 K so adding the balanced nutrients will leave you short N short P and over on the K. Does this make sense to you? This is the reason that nutrients need to be completely changed every week to 10 days in DWC.

I was successful maintaining the PPMs in the reservoir by using a top-off tank with a 25% strength (of the starting PPM) over a week and then did the reservoir change every week.

I like the results I am getting with GreenLeaf Nutrients. I am using the entire line except the growth regulator. I don't want that in my meds.

Tag me into your grow I want to follow your ideas.

 

[NorthernLights_420]

Great write up man, very detailed. I grow this way too! And I can say you nailed it on this one. I disagree witha few things you said but its not to say what youre saying is wrong. Just not what I do. For the new hydro enthusiast though this write up will be a god send. Rep slap coming your way bro!

Can you show me that drip system though or pm me so I can pick your brain about it. I'm tired of hand watering coco and my starter seedlings in my buckets until the roots are established.

I fill my water to about an inch or so above the bottom of net pot. Then I fill the bottom of net pot with hydroton just above the water level. Then put sprouted seedling in rapid rooter plug in top in the middle, fill with hydroton the rest of the way. The popping bubbles underneath helps the roots grow into the res, then I drop the water level an inch or so under the net pot when roots are established. Usually takes about 2 weeks until I see roots. No top feeding, not even once. No drip emmiters to clean. So simple, keep it easy.

 

[NorthernLights_420]

Currently I'm running general hydroponics Flora trio nutrients but want to try greenleaf next. When ppm rises it means there's 2 much nutrients so the plants drinking more water than nutrients which is why ppm rises. If ppm is decreasing I know there's not enough nutrients, she's drinking more nutrients than water so ppm drops. If ppm is stable, not rising or dropping she is in her sweet spot, you mixed your nutrients right, she's drinking the same amount of nutrients and water.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Currently I'm running general hydroponics Flora trio nutrients but want to try greenleaf next. When ppm rises it means there's 2 much nutrients so the plants drinking more water than nutrients which is why ppm rises. If ppm is decreasing I know there's not enough nutrients, she's drinking more nutrients than water so ppm drops. If ppm is stable, not rising or dropping she is in her sweet spot, you mixed your nutrients right, she's drinking the same amount of nutrients and water.

Yes, given stable humidity~65% and temperature ~78°F constant light level, constant leaf surface area, consistent tent fan breeze, You are not replacing any nutrients or water the PPM will remain the same if the plant is using them proportionately. That is a lot of conditions to keep under control. I am not saying it cannot be done because it can in a sophisticated operation. Mine ain't that! Another problem in my style of DWC is that I never let the water/nutrient mix level drop and keep it constant at 1/2" - 1/4" below the net pot. This is accomplished using a float valve and a top - off tank. After the first couple of weeks when the plant gets bigger and starts using the nutrients PPMs start going down faster; I mix nutrients at 25% of the starting res numbers in the top-off. This is not perfect but it does keep you pretty close all week when it is time for the res change.

 

[NorthernLights_420]

Yes, given stable humidity~65% and temperature ~78°F constant light level, constant leaf surface area, consistent tent fan breeze, You are not replacing any nutrients or water the PPM will remain the same if the plant is using them proportionately. That is a lot of conditions to keep under control. I am not saying it cannot be done because it can in a sophisticated operation. Mine ain't that! Another problem in my style of DWC is that I never let the water/nutrient mix level drop and keep it constant at 1/2" - 1/4" below the net pot. This is accomplished using a float valve and a top - off tank. After the first couple of weeks when the plant gets bigger and starts using the nutrients PPMs start going down faster; I mix nutrients at 25% of the starting res numbers in the top-off. This is not perfect but it does keep you pretty close all week when it is time for the res change.

My room air and water temps range 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit and no problems man. Under 60 is bad. Warmer is better but no way to control water temps in single buckets so I control air temps in that range which controls my water temps so I don't get attacked by pythium aka root rot, a hydro growers worst nightmare. I've grown in even colder temps but reduced yields