I fixed it the light is now as close to the roof of my tent as i can get it. I know raising the light will provide more coverage to the plants but would that have anything to do with the droopy leaves? I almost wanna start a new plant but keep thinking it will adjust itself
Constant droopy leaves
- Thread starter sicario
- Start date
I fixed it the light is now as close to the roof of my tent as i can get it. I know raising the light will provide more coverage to the plants but would that have anything to do with the droopy leaves? I almost wanna start a new plant but keep thinking it will adjust itself
stepside
Seriously stoned
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2015
- Messages
- 13,391
- Reputation
- 0
- Reaction score
- 49,831
- Points
- 0
- Currently Smoking
- Double Grape/Wonder OG
I'm no pro but in my opinion, running LEDs you need to keep your tent or room at 82°-85° because the lights don't create the same kind of heat as hps. Looks like it's way overwatered to me. How long do you go between waterings? Is the pot light before watering,?
Looks like too wet
When I water it seems to drain out one side of the pot while the other side stays dry so I normally give it more water to soak the whole pot. Thats what led me to believe theres something wrong with the roots. Could dry spots be the cause of the drooping?
stepside
Seriously stoned
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2015
- Messages
- 13,391
- Reputation
- 0
- Reaction score
- 49,831
- Points
- 0
- Currently Smoking
- Double Grape/Wonder OG
I think it can, pour your water slow.. pour just enough to get the top layer to take water evenly and wait a few minutes. Then do your regular watering.. sometimes the soil just needs time to open up.. I hope that works for you..
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2013
- Messages
- 16,793
- Reputation
- 4,986
- Reaction score
- 53,486
- Points
- 0
- Currently Smoking
- fine-ass '22 harvest!
:smoking: Ahhh, I think I know what's happening now Sicario! ... here the deal: too wet and too dry, ironically, will cause the same drooping but for different reasons,... it sounds like you wait too late into dry cycling to water,.. this, repeatedly, will eventually cause really dry areas in the soil that don't rehydrate well, so the water travels along the path of least resistance, right by them.. you've seen how overly dry soil reacts to watering, especially if there are lots of roots? It just sits on the surface, and trickles slowly in down these paths initially,... same thing in a pot happens, around those dry patches! Best thing to do is use a wetting agent which will break the surface tension and allow far better, faster penetration,... How do the pot's weight feel? heft them and see if they seem light, even if the soil seems plenty moist,.. do you recall their weight when first planted, and well hydrated? -ditto for too dry,... that's your calibration so to speak! Chances are, some roots have dried out, and died, so there may not be enough to really keep up with plant demands over time. Right now, you need to make sure they get a proper even saturation; sometimes setting them in a saucer with water will help pull from the bottom up and reach those dry patches,.. Water more often, don't let them get so dry in between rounds,... I like Coco-wet for a wetting agent, but there are several others out there,.. very handy stuff with numerous application in treating plants and mediums! 
They call it a solvent front. Try getting some burlap and covering the top of your soil. cut it to fit over the footprint of the top of the container with a slit to slide it around the base of the plant. Wet the top of your soil lightly and evenly with about a pint of water. Come back in about 20 minutes and give it another pint. After another 20 minutes or so come back and use a quart this time slowly and evenly in the inner 2/3rd of the burlap on the container. Wait another 20 minutes and repeat as needed until you start to see even release of water from the bottom of the container.
The Burlap will help to get the water application to spread evenly across the top of the soil during application. You can remove it and reuse it when you are done. Once you have established that the soil is evenly moist, try adding a small amount (one cup to one pint dependent on the container size) of water every day dependent on the weight of the container. The weight will tell you how fast the water is leaving the root zone. Don't try to water completely when you are adding the small amounts, just replenish lightly and allow the container to dry out as it normally would. When it comes time to water again repeat the beginning procedure until you get the desired results.
Once potting soils dry out they become hydrophobic. Getting them to take on water again can be rather difficult. Even when you get it initially wetted evenly the particles of soil will compete with the root environment for water as it continues to take up water. This can take as much as 24 hours from the start of the procedure. The incremental doses of water between the watering events will help to even out the moisture content in the can. Too much water can be an even greater enemy in this situation since it can support an environment conducive to root pathogens.
Of course, this is all moot if the can is not half wetted to begin with. You could try soaking it well but that has it's own problems and I think the method I have suggested is going to give you greater success.
The Burlap will help to get the water application to spread evenly across the top of the soil during application. You can remove it and reuse it when you are done. Once you have established that the soil is evenly moist, try adding a small amount (one cup to one pint dependent on the container size) of water every day dependent on the weight of the container. The weight will tell you how fast the water is leaving the root zone. Don't try to water completely when you are adding the small amounts, just replenish lightly and allow the container to dry out as it normally would. When it comes time to water again repeat the beginning procedure until you get the desired results.
Once potting soils dry out they become hydrophobic. Getting them to take on water again can be rather difficult. Even when you get it initially wetted evenly the particles of soil will compete with the root environment for water as it continues to take up water. This can take as much as 24 hours from the start of the procedure. The incremental doses of water between the watering events will help to even out the moisture content in the can. Too much water can be an even greater enemy in this situation since it can support an environment conducive to root pathogens.
Of course, this is all moot if the can is not half wetted to begin with. You could try soaking it well but that has it's own problems and I think the method I have suggested is going to give you greater success.
Thank you all very much for your input. My watering method does seem to be the problem like many of you have said. I'm learning a lot each day. Today my plant is looking a little better, I'm hoping if I'm careful about watering things will start looking a bit better. I'm getting used to the wet weight vs the dry weight of the pot and that's helping a lot.
Similar threads
