Lighting Cobshop.net info, questions and answers

[BigSm0]

The surface area of the cob will be between 160-190 degrees. Same for any 50w cob. I just tested 10 of my 3590's at 50w and they registered 160-165 degrees. Then tested 20 citizen 1812 autocobs and all within the same range 162 the lowest and 170 the highest. This is why there is an attached heatsink and thermal paste. As for the efficiency there is numerous tests run throughout the internet showing citizen vs Cree. Personally I used this as a baseline but have done my own testing to see what the actual par numbers were. I have tested basically all Cree 3590 bins in 36 and just recently tested the 72v cd bin. Then went on to citizen and the par numbers are nearly identical. Photons hitting the plants with a par meter is the best test and much better in my eyes than any calculations people do.

 

[Son of Hobbes]

@BigSm0 Please pm me and we can arrange shipping to you @ full refund and your shipping cost as item specs not as specified. For some one that posted religiously against blurple lights and the heat generated you sure dont have much to say about your products performance given the evidence I have posted. For $50 more I can have a new Tastyled with 3 gen 7 veros driven @ 700ma and all specs listed match those stated by other site vendor.



No Frankly and in Fact you do not have any rights to question me or my intentions. And what is virtually no issues here? There is or there isn't. Also Please use spell check as it is kindly provided at no cost to you.

Habitual, we have some reported posts about this thread now and we've been watching it; from what we can tell it does seem like you have some legitimate concerns, but we would ask that you please tone it down towards the other members and towards the service that's trying to be provided to answer your concerns. If you give sm0 time, he will respond to you. However, getting overly defensive isn't going to help anyone out, most importantly yourself, and ultimately the goal is to figure out how to make things right and get answers to your questions, right? Let's take a deep breath and work towards finding some resolutions here. You're asking for help; there is zero need for personal attacks or making personal inferences based on what you've provided so far. Please keep it respectful bud.

 

[Habitual]

I posted Video of the operating temps my lights are reaching . I cant prove much more than that ??? The heat sink on my tasty gets no higher than 80°F even directly at the base of the cob where the heat transfer is highest compared to 170°F and 198°F of The cobshop unit. The point of heat sink is to draw away the heat from the cob. I will accept the offer to refund my purchase as I have just contacted Kevin and will have one of his lights shipped. I only purchased these 4 as a % of the profit went to supporting AFN. Best regards @BigSm0 @Son of Hobbes.

 

[BigSm0]

Your heatsink on your other light is cooler because it is actively cooled. Being actively cooled has its advantages and disadvantages. When deciding on a light you need to decide which of these benefits you the most. If you prefer a cooler running heatsink then adding a fan to it is what you want. The disadvantsge is the extra wattage needed to power the fan, the noise, and the risk of blowing the cob if the fan malfunctions as the actively cooled heatsink is not rated for the cobs wattage without the fan above it. There is also the added cost and additional driver which is another failure point. The heatsink on the autocob in an 80 degree room willl not register above 135 degrees with or without a fan in the room. With a any sort of air movement you should have heatsink temps of 100-120 degrees again all well within specs for the cob and heatsink. Of coarse the heatsink will be warmer right next to the cob itself. As far as the cobs temp goes that's irrelevant. You can not base a cobs efficiency by measuring the temperature of an actively cooled heatsink vs a passively cooled heatsink. As stated above I tested my 3590's cob temp vs the citizen 1812's cob temp and they were within a few degree. If anyone would like I can post pictures of the Cree and citizen cob temperature.

From the first picture it appeared like you were pointing the laser at the heatsink showing 160 degrees. That's impossible in a 80 degree room that's why I questioned it. Later I saw the video showing you were taking the measurements from the cob itself. I did see the hesitation on the side heatsink measurement and was anxious to see as that's where most measurements are taken from and not the cob itself.

Again on the efficiency I have tested numerous Cree cobs in all bins and tested almost all citizen cobs besides the 3618 and choose the citizen based on real canopy par numbers. Without a par meter or an integrating sphere it is very difficult for you to calculate actual efficiency. There are math equations in place but the real numbers are what's registered at the canopy. The numbers on cobshop.net are 100% accurate and have been tested and rechecked numerous times. I am still trying to figure out the comment using the listed numbers and how the reflector vs non reflectors work out. The par meter recorded the numbers and I transferred them.

These lights and how they are described are as real as it gets. I am in this for the long haul and plan on selling lights for years to come. A fly by night company may have different motives but I do not. I am also here daily unlike most vendors assisting the community trying to make this place better. Helping the real issue with inefficient panels and their false claims. I am here now selling what I feel to be one of the best lights to hit the market. It's the same cob that dozens of others sell just in a different fashion. Your attempt to slander cobshop may have made you feel better but the rest of the members know the truth about the product and I am sure will continue to stand by it. Your claims were comparing apples to oranges and speculations as explained above. Regardless I will offer the refund, even after the lights have been resold?

 

[Jupiter]

Your heatsink on your other light is cooler because it is actively cooled. Being actively cooled has its advantages and disadvantages. When deciding on a light you need to decide which of these benefits you the most. If you prefer a cooler running heatsink then adding a fan to it is what you want. The disadvantsge is the extra wattage needed to power the fan, the noise, and the risk of blowing the cob if the fan malfunctions as the actively cooled heatsink is not rated for the cobs wattage without the fan above it. There is also the added cost and additional driver which is another failure point. The heatsink on the autocob in an 80 degree room willl not register above 135 degrees with or without a fan in the room. With a any sort of air movement you should have heatsink temps of 100-120 degrees again all well within specs for the cob and heatsink. Of coarse the heatsink will be warmer right next to the cob itself. As far as the cobs temp goes that's irrelevant. You can not base a cobs efficiency by measuring the temperature of an actively cooled heatsink vs a passively cooled heatsink. As stated above I tested my 3590's cob temp vs the citizen 1812's cob temp and they were within a few degree. If anyone would like I can post pictures of the Cree and citizen cob temperature.

From the first picture it appeared like you were pointing the laser at the heatsink showing 160 degrees. That's impossible in a 80 degree room that's why I questioned it. Later I saw the video showing you were taking the measurements from the cob itself. I did see the hesitation on the side heatsink measurement and was anxious to see as that's where most measurements are taken from and not the cob itself.

Again on the efficiency I have tested numerous Cree cobs in all bins and tested almost all citizen cobs besides the 3618 and choose the citizen based on real canopy par numbers. Without a par meter or an integrating sphere it is very difficult for you to calculate actual efficiency. There are math equations in place but the real numbers are what's registered at the canopy. The numbers on cobshop.net are 100% accurate and have been tested and rechecked numerous times. I am still trying to figure out the comment using the listed numbers and how the reflector vs non reflectors work out. The par meter recorded the numbers and I transferred them.

These lights and how they are described are as real as it gets. I am in this for the long haul and plan on selling lights for years to come. A fly by night company may have different motives but I do not. I am also here daily unlike most vendors assisting the community trying to make this place better. Helping the real issue with inefficient panels and their false claims. I am here now selling what I feel to be one of the best lights to hit the market. It's the same cob that dozens of others sell just in a different fashion. Your attempt to slander cobshop may have made you feel better but the rest of the members know the truth about the product and I am sure will continue to stand by it. Your claims were comparing apples to oranges and speculations as explained above. Regardless I will offer the refund, even after the lights have been resold?

Yes actively cooled and passively cooled are completely separate animals. I'm nervous as hell about fan failures with the chips I have cranking over 100watts each. Definitely don't have to worry about that with the autocobs/passive cooling. The heatsink temps have been documented on other websites also and the only time I've ever recorded under 100 degrees was on my liquid cooled chandelier. Love that light. Think I'm going to crank that bitch up to 100 watts each! See what happens

 

[Rhubarb Pi]

On my end, for my project, I did immense research of all styles of lighting, from HPS to cheap LEDs to fancier LEDs to even other COB makers online - the fact is, @BigSm0 answered my questions within minutes, while other companies failed to even respond to me.

The minute I received my AutoCOB, I knew then I wasn't working with anything else - they felt like my 1982 Mercedes 240d - heavy duty, efficient, utilitarian, beautiful.

Ever since, @BigSm0 has shown nothing but love & gratitude to me, and when I'm on here I see him actively engaging every question that comes to him - He Really Cares.

So, to each his own on preferences & styles to each grower, but on my end, I will ONLY use AutoCOBs, and will until I can't anymore.

 

[A-Train]

Im locking this thread for a bit so everyone can have a cool down. Sit down amd think about what you really want out of this.

And lets get back to the vibe...

 

[Bigcheif]

Thank you @BigSmO second light arrived. I finished it up with aluminum frame .

 

[BigSm0]

Thank you @BigSmO second light arrived. I finished it up with aluminum frame.

Great. Happy it arrived safely and is already to good use.

 

[Rhubarb Pi]

Thank you @BigSmO second light arrived. I finished it up with aluminum frameView attachment 733078 View attachment 733079 .

Excellent, man I feel kinship with all of my fellow [HASHTAG]#AutoCOB[/HASHTAG] crew - @BigSm0 has one monster machine under his direction & our plants are merry melodies happy for it!! :smoking::smoking: