I used pk in a 0,33ml:liter ratio,I read on the internet some growshop in Europe did try from starting of flowering and above all with autos that are light Feeder,to add 0,33-0,66-until you reach their recommended dosage on the week they want you to use It,I Hope I don't kill/break the ratios by doing this.It added 0.055 to the Ec going from 1.5 to 1.556,then I diluted with distilled to 1.1 as Always.Thabk you for your help @Zaaboot @Tony9d9ct @blue @DCLXVI
Grow Mediums Canna Coco and High frequency fertigation
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It does not take much one way or the other to swing the balance of nutrients in hydro. I found the best method to dilute the PPM was to do it after mixing the full amounts and verifying by PPM. There are minimum input thresholds that must be met to ensure balance. In the MC 2 Part I am working with it starts at about 3.25g of inputs per gallon of water. ~615 PPM nutrients your water is 130 PPM so 745 PPM total.
You don't want to feed at that high so you want 60% add 10 cups of water, 70% add 7 cups of water, 80% add 4 cups of water to a gallon of nutrient mix.
Remember PH -/+ will change the nutrient balance if you need to use very much.
You don't want to feed at that high so you want 60% add 10 cups of water, 70% add 7 cups of water, 80% add 4 cups of water to a gallon of nutrient mix.
Remember PH -/+ will change the nutrient balance if you need to use very much.
Sorry to bother you @Mañ'O'Green ,but I Just re-read your words "pH- Will change nutrient balance of you use very much",and my tap water Is hard,lot of bicarbonates,you saw multiple times my analisis and said that too...I am diluting with 20% RO now,and It goes to 0.3 EC,but,to bring It 5.7-8Ph I have to use about 34 ppms of Nitric Canna pH-.
Is this causing my P imbalance and N toxicity?(I do autos)
Should I compensate with some pk?
I use Canna pk 0.33 ml/l at the Moment,giving about 25 ppm + cocoA/B and Zym at 1.1 Ec
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Use half nitric and half phosphoric acids. Don't mix them, just add one at a time. The nitric can take a long time to lower PH. be patient. That will balance it out better than adding something else.
There are a lot of ways to grow successfully in coco, but I think there are also a lot of misconceptions about how it can be used.
I pretty much follow all the tips that Canna gives, after all they basically invented coco coir on a commercial scale. I add no additional drainage, I hand water once or twice a day maximum (during flowering). I let pots dry back to 40-50% between each watering. Once root growth has slowed, usually by early to mid flowering I do reduce runoff to between 5-10%, but I do 15-20% up to that point. As the roots expand and break up the coco more the medium uses up more calmag during these early growth stages.
Lured by all the hype I did try a high frequency fertigation setup for a couple cycles. It did not improve yield or quality. It was a pain dealing with the reservoir, and I didn’t like not being able to move anything around because of all the hoses. I also had more problems with fungus gnats than I have had in almost 10 years of growing. I know many folks love their high frequency fertigation coco but I didn’t find it useful or necessary. Cloth pots also are the worst for coco, especially high frequency fertigation. Rain Science bags or Air pots are the way to go (Rain Science guy myself).
Yes coco is hydro, but without added drainage you can still water it a lot more like soil or soil less mediums than most people assume IMHO.
I pretty much follow all the tips that Canna gives, after all they basically invented coco coir on a commercial scale. I add no additional drainage, I hand water once or twice a day maximum (during flowering). I let pots dry back to 40-50% between each watering. Once root growth has slowed, usually by early to mid flowering I do reduce runoff to between 5-10%, but I do 15-20% up to that point. As the roots expand and break up the coco more the medium uses up more calmag during these early growth stages.
Lured by all the hype I did try a high frequency fertigation setup for a couple cycles. It did not improve yield or quality. It was a pain dealing with the reservoir, and I didn’t like not being able to move anything around because of all the hoses. I also had more problems with fungus gnats than I have had in almost 10 years of growing. I know many folks love their high frequency fertigation coco but I didn’t find it useful or necessary. Cloth pots also are the worst for coco, especially high frequency fertigation. Rain Science bags or Air pots are the way to go (Rain Science guy myself).
Yes coco is hydro, but without added drainage you can still water it a lot more like soil or soil less mediums than most people assume IMHO.
I still have problems with my tap, Basically I think Calcium and Magnesium carbonates Just build up in the roots or Coco,I don't actually understand the chemistry,but,I have to dilute It a bit since It has a lot of calcium and,when It gets a Little dry It forms deposits in the pot like White Gypsum or Powder.My carbonates content Is around 240ppm.A lot
Recently I thought to calculate approximately ppms of Ca and Mg added by Coco A/B and my tap (50ppmCa/27Mg) and try to workaround It with adding Epsom salts and increases Mg,or use Phosphoric acid/SO4 acids to lower my water pH because I use a lot Nitric acids and I have got N toxicity in some plants,I believe from too much N throwing out balance.I am no chemist though and don't know how to do the match properly
I tried the watering when the Weight Is less type too,but afaik I have Always problems and want to fix It with my tap. I am sure It Is not a big problem,because the plant doesn't die or show very very bad symptoms,so It Is something I have to solve and could solve eventually
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Coco needs a lot of calcium and magnesium. The medium forms a bond with both of them as the roots work their way through the coco exposing new cation sites. Coco does not hold on to lots of extra stuff like peat and soil do. This means with proper fertigation that things will not build up in coco to the same extent they do in soil.
There is a pretty wide range for tap water to be used for coco. Anything between 0.2-0.6 EC (100-300PPM Hanna) is fine for coco base water. If the tds of your tap water is 240ppm (Hanna or truncheon? There is a big difference, that’s why I use EC) EC/Hanna scale then you are well within range. During early root development it can be surprising how much calmag the coco uses up. When the roots are rapidly expanding it uses up tons of calmag. This is why EC of runoff will often drop during peak root development, the roots are exposing so many new cation sites in the coco that the medium just gobbles up the calmag. A common mistake is to increase fertilizer strength in response the the EC drop off in the runoff. As the roots fill up the pot and calmag use slows down the runoff EC will begin to stabilize again. This are some of the reasons why soaking the pot to runoff and lots of calmag are so important in coco.
I started rambling there for a moment and got a bit off topic, hopefully there was some useful information.
There is a pretty wide range for tap water to be used for coco. Anything between 0.2-0.6 EC (100-300PPM Hanna) is fine for coco base water. If the tds of your tap water is 240ppm (Hanna or truncheon? There is a big difference, that’s why I use EC) EC/Hanna scale then you are well within range. During early root development it can be surprising how much calmag the coco uses up. When the roots are rapidly expanding it uses up tons of calmag. This is why EC of runoff will often drop during peak root development, the roots are exposing so many new cation sites in the coco that the medium just gobbles up the calmag. A common mistake is to increase fertilizer strength in response the the EC drop off in the runoff. As the roots fill up the pot and calmag use slows down the runoff EC will begin to stabilize again. This are some of the reasons why soaking the pot to runoff and lots of calmag are so important in coco.
I started rambling there for a moment and got a bit off topic, hopefully there was some useful information.
Yes friend,top Infos,I actually Always see during First weeks the runoff creeping down,and I mistakenly upp the feeds a bit.In flowering I see Indeed my runoff getting 0.2-3 EC higher because of some buildup.
I referred to 240ppm in 0.5Ec scale as only carbonates,My Total water EC Is around 0.450 and 0.550 EC.So starting with that I would likely not dilute It with distilled as I use to do right?Just add Cannazym and Coco A/B.Here a picture of my autos atm
