Blueberry auto lockout issues.

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Three days ago noticed she had some slight discoloration at the tips. I am using newest one part Megacrop in coco/30 percentish perlite. Instead of addressing the lockout I watered that day with a tad-120ppm of cal mag phd to 6.2 and watered the entire plant instead of just around the base as I had done the first two weeks. I calibrated my pen again today and watered again with the calmag at 6.2 to get enough run off to test. It came out at 6.8PH while PPM were only 170 in a 500 scale so I am definitely having lockout issues now.

I made a couple of mistakes early that I think are catching up to me. I started these as my last plant in soil was finishing so I probably added too much diotomaceous earth that I fed in when I gave it that first big water screwing with my soil PH. Today I scrapped off the top layer where most of the diatomaceous earth was and replaced it with some fresh hydrated and buffered coco that I am about to use for a some Critial orange punch run soon.

Wanted some feedback on my strategy for today if someone can help. I am new to coco and am worried about the PH being at 6.8 for runoff. I either let the coco dry out too much before that big watering or I turned that diotomaceous earth into an accidental nute so either way I can assume I have lockout right?

Do I flush then feed with cal mag and mega crop or can I fetigate to runoff to get the PH moving in the right direction?

I want to add recharge to this feeding to repopulate but I am thinking I want to stabilize first no?


Thanks for reading this far :)
 
My research indicated that 5.8 is optimal PH for growing in coco. But it can range from 5.3-6.0. If I was you I would water/feed at 5.8 from now on and add some mycorrhizae fungi type stuff with the feed to help get that PH in range. I think the nutrients are in the potting medium, but the PH is out of range for the plant to take them up. If you get the PH in range and add some mycorrhizae fungi in there it will help the plants take up the nutrients.
Hopefully the coco coir masters chime in to help you more :peace: :astar:
 
The symptoms look like magnesium deficiency. There is so much more going on here. Diatomaceous Earth is generally inert enough but it will push PH marginally toward alkaline. I don't think it is an issue here. Coco is a form of hydroponics and hydroponic cultures should be practiced. Coco has a couple of qwerks that need attention.

You should always water the entire pot. If soil, peat or coco are allowed to dry out they can become hydrophobic (repels water). It makes it hard to re-wet the medium. You can end up with the dry pockets. Use a surfactant in your fertigation if this happens to you. I run yucca powder as a basic item in my drip to waste hydro. It is a natural surfactant. Good for foliar feeds also. Just use it. It is so cheap for what it does.

You should always fertigate coco with the complete nutrients at the same time. Think of it like mixing your nutrients in a bucket and they are swirling around the roots with everything the plant can possibly need. The roots simply absorb what the plant wants along with the water to carry it where it needs to go. In contrast if the only nutrient present is calcium in the water the plant must bring in water or die so it brings in too much calcium along with the water. That is trouble. Balanced nutrients every time all of the time. If you want to look into 'Balance" check out liebig's Law of the Minimum.

You should always fertigate coco to 10% to 15% run-off by 2 hours before the end of the day. The same porosity in the coco that is so beneficial to the roots can also precipitate salt. Run-off every day keeps the salt monster at bay. Yes I am stoned :rofl:.



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Ok so how do we fix this. This is the best part of hydro you can fix it. Do a proper flush PH 6.2 like the many gallon kind. If you have a surfactant use it. Take your time so the flush is efficient. Let it drain a bit then follow with 2g per gallon of Mega Crop plus 150 PPMs of cal-mag. Add Mykos or other beneficials if you have them. Use the recommended strength MC after this. I think the new one part MC has enough Cal.

Now we have shocked the heck out of this girl? Will she survive touch and go. It would really help if you could make a foliar application of Fulvic acid 5 parts, kelp 2 parts and a tiny bit of B1, tiny pinch of Epsom salt and or the MC. This needs to be weak or we will be sending her off. I am just kidding she should be fine. if you can address the issues.
 
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Thank you very much for the help Manowar and Tess. Getting some water ready to flush in the morning. I was hoping to start the reservoir soon on the autopots but will wait till she recovers completely. I sadly don't have a surfactant to use but will order something to have on hand soon. Will do a nice slow flush.

Will feed with 2grams of MC and recharge after testing run off. Thanks again for the help man! Had me stressing there for a sec hahah! I thought about doing a cal mag plus foliar but those crispy leaves are toast aren't they?
 
Thank you very much for the help Manowar and Tess. Getting some water ready to flush in the morning. I was hoping to start the reservoir soon on the autopots but will wait till she recovers completely. I sadly don't have a surfactant to use but will order something to have on hand soon. Will do a nice slow flush.

Will feed with 2grams of MC and recharge after testing run off. Thanks again for the help man! Had me stressing there for a sec hahah! I thought about doing a cal mag plus foliar but those crispy leaves are toast aren't they?
Sadly yes they are beyond help. Do not use Cal-mag in the foliar that is what is causing the problem too much calcium. Do you have kelp?
 
Sadly I don't have any kelp, was waiting for Greenleaf to come back in stock. Will get some soon but it probably wont be here for a few days.
 
In the Midwest and there aren't any hydro stores close sadly. Looking on amazon right now.
 
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