Lighting Bilbo's Brief Guide to Choosing Your LED.

Groglo ?????? no data

well ... to be fair ... the GroGlo data WAS being provided by @Mike-groglo in a thread, that was hard deleted, and is now completely irrecoverable.

It seems there is a real fine line between 'providing data', and some not-to-be-named [self confessed] Fanboy complaining that 'providing data' that members specifically ask for, is a breach of forum policy, and an attempt at soft-advertising a product.

I'm not sure a solution to that has ever been found ... in any forum.
Damned if you do ... damned if you don't.
 
This has taken on a life of its own!

Firstly the details I was discussing before, the projects side by side and the results differentiation...

The experiments were exactly the same in a sealed environment, the differences weren't massive, but there were differences. The "Bods" put this down to 2 things, 1 was shift in output, even between "identical" lights, and 2 was actual power output.

I'm not going to name names, but the LEDs used were from a huge dutch corporation who seek to control everything in the LED industry...and their product and ALL of their research initially was around the red blue spectrum and providing supplementary light for glasshouses, therefore their actual outputs didn't nearly so much matter, in fact in one research facility I've been into they don't actually know how much these new generation versions are contributing, simply that they are saving power and getting some favourable results.

In this instance growers usually have sealed environments, so the power and output is EVERYTHING! So for example, when we got involved we had some very rudimentary test kit, and we quite literally tested everything we initially received and threw it away when we considered it against another (very good but very expensive manufacturers kit), we were't in the game at producing a generic faddy light without some data behind us...

Anyway, so COBS!

There are some horrendously bad chips out there, there are some average ones, and like anything there are some good ones...we tested quite literally hundreds of variants and we initially (and still do) have made a proprietary red/blue for supplemental light, we include either a phoshor or a natural (around 4200k) white for our commercial clientele...BUT for you guys the flowering stage is important, so we worked with our manufacturer (a very large concern) and came up with a phosphor chip which is doped to a curve, this curve is what we developed with the research partners we have, is used in almost all our research work and is unique to us, phosphors are starting to appear here and there, but they are a generic, indeed we take some of the information we get and "tweak" our spectrum slightly every time we order a new batch (we order a production run maybe every 6 months depending on sales and they last a year usually).

COBS in general are efficient, but to use a white chip would be erroneous, the simple fact is that a plants response curve requires bits of this and bits of that sometimes in line with what a white cannot provide...I'll try to provide a graphic later showing the curves overlaid...we have a natural white and at the moment, that cannot "do" everything so we're working on an "altered state" white but we're probably 2 years from having a product we are happy with.

So in general, COBS we feel are the only way you can generate the power required for penetration in a canopy, in that particular sector we feel that a multicoloured chip with individually coloured diodes is very difficult to get an even response curve from without having HUGE lights and many different power percentiles, (remember some wavelengths are just inefficient) or take an efficient blue chip (the colour most LED is to start with), dope it with a set "curve" and electrically you have an efficient chip, with a compounded spectrum curve and overall if used/focused correctly enough power to penetrate a canopy giving even penetration.

HOWEVER, this forum is about how to buy an LED light, the basics if you will. Our theory is well documented, the website etc will happily explain it. BUT overall, I would say that if you buy any LED light, make sure that with your chosen light AT 60cm above floor level your chosen supplier of light should be able to give you a guaranteed minimal 215umols EVENLY around your grow space. Diffuse, even light is more important than anything else and you feel happy with your purchase. If your chosen manufacturer cannot provide you with a recent and averaged umol test for what they are trying to sell you from a non reflective chamber, then they are selling you snake oil...and they know it...

Inverse square law defines how light travels, so effectively an "at source" measurement means nothing...and bouncing LED through or around with mirrors really doesn't work...

image007.gif
 
if you buy any LED light, make sure that with your chosen light AT 60cm above floor level your chosen supplier of light should be able to give you a guaranteed minimal 215umols EVENLY around your grow space. Diffuse, even light is more important than anything else and you feel happy with your purchase. If your chosen manufacturer cannot provide you with a recent and averaged umol test for what they are trying to sell you from a non reflective chamber, then they are selling you snake oil...and they know it...

Inverse square law defines how light travels, so effectively an "at source" measurement means nothing...and bouncing LED through or around with mirrors really doesn't work...

Amen.

Rod Tidwell said:
Show me the data !!

[from Jerry Maguire II ... the never written, never produced, never filmed, never released sequel ...]
 
I'm going to ask a really, really stupid [and somewhat rhetorical] question ...


IF ... it is now generally accepted that Lumens have no real meaning in terms of photosynthesis, and PAR is the most simple measurement of 'useful' light ...


THEN ... why do manufacturers insist on making claims in terms of Lumens, not PAR?

and ...

THEN ... why, as critical and analytical consumers, do we not demand PAR values from all LED manufacturers, and ignore their claims of Lumens?


I don't get it ...
 
IF ... it is now generally accepted that Lumens have no real meaning in terms of photosynthesis, and PAR is the most simple measurement of 'useful' light ...

THEN ... why do manufacturers insist on making claims in terms of Lumens, not PAR?

because to take accurate PAR measurements costs MONEY...LOTS of money...and lighting manufacturers are set up to take LUX measurements, because until recently most people didn't know PAR even existed...and many still don't...and even fewer PAR meters are properly calibrated to any standard...

and ...

THEN ... why, as critical and analytical consumers, do we not demand PAR values from all LED manufacturers, and ignore their claims of Lumens?

Because lux means something to a human in terms of brightness, and lighting manufacturers erroneously still think that the "brighter is better" mantra wise...which is why there is so much white light is many growing lights these days...


I don't get it ...


AND THERE IS STILL NO ACCEPTED WAY OF TAKING THESE MEASUREMENTS...THEY GENERALLY TAKE SPOT MEASUREMENTS WHICH SHOW HUGE PAR and LUX NUMBERS...

We're working with Delta T to have our current "Heath Robinson" average measurement wand integrated into a proper cabinet design, then we can see just how many manufacturers buy one and will commit to working on a level playing field...

On a secondary note...

Warm White/ Cool White / Phosphor overlay...the warm white is stronger in the red, the cool the blue...

WWCWP.jpg


and that is why an LED "white", any LED "white" will never "do it all", even a natural white which sits comfortably between the 2...so for a plant it still needs more red into IR and travel into UV...
 
I would be REALLY interested to see a PAR measurement test, across multiple points, at various set heights, across multiple, commonly used light sources.

i.e. standardised measurement grid [20cm intervals?], in a standard sized tent [120 x 120 ?], at say 0.5m, 1.0m, and 1.5m from light source, for HPS vs MH vs LED [insert manufacturer here] vs CFL ?

What would that give us?
A 49 point data set per height x 3 height measurements?
Should be enough to build an accurate representative model of true PAR values on offer.

Which would be more accurate to compare?
Total watts claimed?
e.g. buy this new [insert manufacturer name] XXX watt Super Duper light

Total comparative watts claimed?
e.g this new Super Duper light has the equivalent power to God shitting a supernova, after snorting bath salts

Or actual watts drawn?
[self-explanatory]
 
We're working with Delta T to have our current "Heath Robinson" average measurement wand integrated into a proper cabinet design, then we can see just how many manufacturers buy one and will commit to working on a level playing field...

Heath Robinson?
The Messiah walks among us??

 
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