Autopot PH issues...and lockout?

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Hi All,

Around day 65 and I've run into issues with my setup... Both are the same strain (GCS Tangerine Dream), popped on the same day...

Medium is "RootFarm" (a soilless mainly coco mix) with about 30% added perlite.
AN PH Perfect 3-Part nutes
AN Calmag 2ml/l
Day 74/Nite 70
40-45% RH

Light is a Mars Reflector 960w @ 18" set for 18/6

PH in the rez is constantly creeping up and hit 7.4+ a few times a couple weeks ago. I managed to chase it back down to 6 - and allowed it to range between 6 & 6.5.That said, I also modified the recipe of my base nutes to give a bigger bloom feed in the last refil, and I belive this to be a major part of the issue. Seems to me the elements that uptake at lower PH are locked out.
Plant on the right is stalled, has leaves that are small with red stems/veins, and are starting to turn brown. Plant on the left seems to be advancing slower, but the same issues.

I've got a more detailed post in my growlog, can someone pop by and have a look? @Waira @

https://www.autoflower.org/threads/two-tangerine-dream-in-a-tent.67785/page-5#post-1973244

Thanks in advance, happy growing!

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:toke: -- what's the water source, pH, ppm's? The pH is too high in general, should be around 6.0,.. you're closer to hydro in this sense, far from true soil in any case, and that means a very different optimal pH range for nute availability... This is a multi-lockout for sure, more than one thing, but P especially, as you see,.. all the micronutes are borderline as is, no wiggle room there...
pH perfect works in solution only, not once in the pot, and if the water source has significant hardness, it'll tax the AN's pH buffering past what it can handle,... Get that pH down!
hydro.jpg
 
Hi All,

Around day 65 and I've run into issues with my setup... Both are the same strain (GCS Tangerine Dream), popped on the same day...

Medium is "RootFarm" (a soilless mainly coco mix) with about 30% added perlite.
AN PH Perfect 3-Part nutes
AN Calmag 2ml/l
Day 74/Nite 70
40-45% RH

Light is a Mars Reflector 960w @ 18" set for 18/6

PH in the rez is constantly creeping up and hit 7.4+ a few times a couple weeks ago. I managed to chase it back down to 6 - and allowed it to range between 6 & 6.5.That said, I also modified the recipe of my base nutes to give a bigger bloom feed in the last refil, and I belive this to be a major part of the issue. Seems to me the elements that uptake at lower PH are locked out.
Plant on the right is stalled, has leaves that are small with red stems/veins, and are starting to turn brown. Plant on the left seems to be advancing slower, but the same issues.

I've got a more detailed post in my growlog, can someone pop by and have a look? @Waira @

https://www.autoflower.org/threads/two-tangerine-dream-in-a-tent.67785/page-5#post-1973244

Thanks in advance, happy growing!

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I ran into the same issues near end of gold glue on ph drift. Upped my bloom to full strength cut calmag out problem solved. My thoughts was the calmag bringing ph up as it took all the nutes. I ran 3 weeks without calmag before seeing the first spot. I guess they don't need as much near last weeks of life.

Also if both are same strain you have a photo unless she is in the makin on becoming a monster.
 
Which root farm are you using? The coco or the potting mix? The coco mix is just coco and perlite but the potting mix is almost a full blown organic soil
 
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Which root farm are you using? The coco or the potting mix? The coco mix is just coco and perlite but the potting mix is almost a full blown organic soil
I just had to check this as when I bought I thought it was coco/perlite (didn't know they had another one now too), but it is in fact the potting mix. My last grow with it I maintained around 6-6.5 hand watered with the same nutes, but had a big swing during preflower too. This will be the last run with this medium, moving to some real coco...
 
:toke: -- what's the water source, pH, ppm's? The pH is too high in general, should be around 6.0,.. you're closer to hydro in this sense, far from true soil in any case, and that means a very different optimal pH range for nute availability... This is a multi-lockout for sure, more than one thing, but P especially, as you see,.. all the micronutes are borderline as is, no wiggle room there...
pH perfect works in solution only, not once in the pot, and if the water source has significant hardness, it'll tax the AN's pH buffering past what it can handle,... Get that pH down!
View attachment 991984
Water source is 48h bubbled tap. Starting ph is in the high 7's @ 150ppm. I've brought the rez down and it seems to have stabilized at 5.8 now.
 
I just had to check this as when I bought I thought it was coco/perlite (didn't know they had another one now too), but it is in fact the potting mix. My last grow with it I maintained around 6-6.5 hand watered with the same nutes, but had a big swing during preflower too. This will be the last run with this medium, moving to some real coco...
Have you checked the aquarium valve on the effected plant yet. I had one plant from last run that did something very similar. I couldn't pin point it. I took off the aqua valve cover and noticed it was submerged in water/nutes. It was completely full and the tray was over watering the plant with stagnant and causing issues. Not saying that its an answer or solution in any way, its just one more thing to check when having plant issues when using auto pots.
 
I ran into the same issues near end of gold glue on ph drift. Upped my bloom to full strength cut calmag out problem solved. My thoughts was the calmag bringing ph up as it took all the nutes. I ran 3 weeks without calmag before seeing the first spot. I guess they don't need as much near last weeks of life.

Also if both are same strain you have a photo unless she is in the makin on becoming a monster.

Intereting about the calmag causing drift. It definitely jacks up the ppm's But I hadn't considered removing it from the mix as I'm showing purple stems too.

Both are the same strain and start date, tho TD2 has been a challenge since the very start - probably should have pulled her and started fresh... live and learn...a lot...lol
 
Have you checked the aquarium valve on the effected plant yet. I had one plant from last run that did something very similar. I couldn't pin point it. I took off the aqua valve cover and noticed it was submerged in water/nutes. It was completely full and the tray was over watering the plant with stagnant and causing issues. Not saying that its an answer or solution in any way, its just one more thing to check when having plant issues when using auto pots.
Not clogged but maybe over watered...she was up against the heater and was taking tons more than the other one. I'm trying to sort out some space now to pull her outa the main tent and into her own space... I think she's proving she needs a little extra special care
 
:thumbsup: water's fine there, though I think AN "recommends" that you use RO/Di water...? What's bugging me is why the pH is drifting up, not down,... are you using the coco-specific line? If so, then extra Ca-Mg isn't needed,... Most Ca-Mg supp's are in part carbonate based, and it's this anion that's doing the pH buffering, not the Ca itself,... this will tend to force the pH up above what's best for coco,...
... purple petioles aren't always indicative of a nute defc., many express this coloring naturally; otherwise, it's more of a P defc. thing when it does, not Ca or Mg,...if it's on the main stem, it's more likely an overall nutrient defc., though strong light can make it show color as well,.. some of my outdoor plants show this....
The overall yellowing smacks of S defc., and/or micro's,... easy to do with that bitchy narrow range! I recommend doing a foliar spray with a dedicated micronute supp', like Earth Juice Microblast, which will also add Sulfate,... if you do this, be sure to use a wetting agent in the solution (I like Coco-Wet), just enough to make it coat and stick evenly, instead of just beading up; spray bottoms of leaves as well, and out of direct light until dry; fully dry by lights out to avoid any potential mold issues,... foliar is the fastest way into the plant, plus it bypasses any troubles going on in the pots- :greenthumb:
...what matters most right now is what the pH is in the pots, the adjusted pH in the res' isn't going to help anytime soon,... A soil/medium pH probe is best for this, but likely not something you have on hand? The Accurate 8 is a decent unit for this, less $$ than a more "pro" model that uses a simialr electrode bulb like a pH meter does, and all the care/ maintenanace that entails,... Since the pot can be removed, you may want to consider flushing that pot out, testing pH and TDS/EC of the run-off to see where that's at, and if it's part of the problem,... There isn't any lime in that amended coco, is there? Shouldn't be, since coco needs to be around 6.0.... Anyway, if you flush, you MUSt use a specific solution, or you'll fuck up the coco's CEC using water alone,... flush solution is RO/Di (really low ppm water, like from self fill units is OK too), with 150ppm Ca-Mg, plus another 150ppm of nutes, pH6.0, pour through until pH and ppm is at or near input levels,...
 
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