Auto Lemon Zkittle, day 50, leafs clawing and with burnt tips

As you'll see, EC is the best way to go as it's a universal standard, TDS is not... It's a drag, and worse, different nute brands use different standards in the feeding chart numbers (ppm),... When in doubt, ask the manufacturer what they are using....
+1 this.
At least from my experience on first grow. I was calculating TDS on 500scale using AN 3part. Didnt know AN used 700 scale. My 1100ppm was actually closer to 1600, cranked nitrogen, locking out P and CA. Issue spread super goddamn fast.

Worth looking at, followed by ph and soil temps that coulf cause the same.

From what ive gathered anyways, plenty of better growers around here for input for sure.
 
Hey guys,

So I came out of this not too bad, still managed to get 3oz off her and even though its not the nicest bud I’ve ever grown, still smokes surprisingly ok.

I did struggle to keep the pH of the reservoir down though, I would pH feeds at 6.0 and once in the reservoir they would creep up to 7.0. Doing a few things differently this time around that will hopefully make a difference have started a journal for my second run in the Autopot forum. https://www.autoflower.org/threads/dp-auto-lemon-zkittles.78042/

I have been reading up on EC/TDS and have realised my meter does not give an EC reading. What I thought was the EC reading is a TDS reading I think? I did a little experiment with my tap water and took readings of it before and after being left out for 24hrs.

Before

pH of water 7.8

TDS (?) 398

ppm 199

After

pH of water 8.6

TDS (?) 444

ppm 222

This is without any nutrients, the rise in pH really surprised me, is this normal?

I am have ordered an EC Meter, and will do the same experiment with and without nutrients. Really wanna learn and understand the importance of water for this grow :d5:

Thanks for the continued guidance :pass:
 
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