Amount of light?

You could use a tarp and paracord to create a "room" for your tent and utilize a small dehumidifier in the new lung room.
 
I refuse to even try a indoor grow at this time of year, I can drop the temp with AC but even that can not get the humidity below 75%, I could then turn on a dehumidifier but that puts out even more heat so the AC has to work even harder, more $$$ out the door! SO it has to be an outdoor grow in the summer for me.
 
@Death The Cultivator
Just got a new IPhone this week and was taking my first readings with Photone today. My readings were about 30% higher on the new iPhone 13 vs. my old 11 and it made me think of comments that DtC made about the Photone app.

The first grow I used it I wanted to get my DLI set to 45-50. Based on Photone readings on my iPhone 11 I lowered the light from 18 inches to 15 inches (315 cmh, not led, so no dimmer). After about a week plants started to look light stressed so I raised it back to 18 inches. I think the 13 is giving me more accurate numbers based on PAR charts available on a couple websites, but I am still wary of the data to base any decisions on.

It does make the point about how variable the data can be on different devices. iPhone is supposed to be more consistent between devices, at least that’s the word. 30% is a pretty big swing, too much to be useful, and wrong enough to cause potential problems.
 
@Death The Cultivator
Just got a new IPhone this week and was taking my first readings with Photone today. My readings were about 30% higher on the new iPhone 13 vs. my old 11 and it made me think of comments that DtC made about the Photone app.

The first grow I used it I wanted to get my DLI set to 45-50. Based on Photone readings on my iPhone 11 I lowered the light from 18 inches to 15 inches (315 cmh, not led, so no dimmer). After about a week plants started to look light stressed so I raised it back to 18 inches. I think the 13 is giving me more accurate numbers based on PAR charts available on a couple websites, but I am still wary of the data to base any decisions on.

It does make the point about how variable the data can be on different devices. iPhone is supposed to be more consistent between devices, at least that’s the word. 30% is a pretty big swing, too much to be useful, and wrong enough to cause potential problems.

That's my whole point. Growers can use what they please to ensure their success, we both desire the same thing but the right equipment breeds consistency. iPhones change components every so often, more than likely the components in each generation or two are pretty same-y but that's no guarantee especially when we add in spectra outside the 400-700nm range or Android phones.

At any point in a time a grower could get lucky and hit "crazy" numbers. The measure of their skill, because I'm not smoking their stuff yet they are, is can they do it consistently. Are they capable of repeatable results?

There are so many amazing tools that while they are expensive investments, they help create consistency for continued success. By all means, use a lux meter or your phone but there are PAR maps and dedicated tools to ensure you are successful.

It's a great skill to be able to read your plants, more important than having a PAR meter because that meter just sets you up for success whereas being inquisitive and perceptive ensures consistency.
 
I know a grower at another place that also claims very low watts per area/ppfd/DLI (around 1/4th - 1/5th of sunlight) because he made 1 (only one) experiment that "gave proof" to his case.
He took one of his vegging little plants and ramped up power by ~20%, then it started to droop, not as much like a wilted plant, but the leaves lowered a bit.
Then he dimmed back to the normal power the plant was grown under, and the leaf angle returned to normal.
He took pictures of the process which he now cites as evidence that you cannot give more light to Cannabis because the plant "will try to hide" from the light.

In reality plants can adapt to a broad range of fluence rates, but some of these adaptations are slow, taking 2-3 days to complete. Others happen within minutes, while some are actually permanent and will only change with new growth that may be different in low fluence than high, ie. chloroplast number, leaf-finger-number, leaf-size/area, internode lengths/width to name a few. But it's not only the fluence but also the spectrum that can influence or shape these things.
 
Another aspect of this that hasn't been covered is in regards to what spectrum is increased/decreased, that has as much if not more influence on plant reaction than total output of the light.
 
Another aspect of this that hasn't been covered is in regards to what spectrum is increased/decreased, that has as much if not more influence on plant reaction than total output of the light.
How is your experience with the green-enriched light (-ONE) so far? I like that spectrum very much, but it has not a true white appearance and lacks alot of cyan.
The new -EVO is also more efficient, and has a slightly different pump to spike in the blue. Maybe a combination would fare well...?
 
I really like the ONE's spectrum, it is a yellowish with a very slight greenish cast and the ones I use have a spectral center of 3500k. There is an increased cyan in comparison to other lm301B/H leds. The plants I started inside for my garden grow really responded well with a combo of lm301h 6500k and the ONE's. I also use the new EVO with the extended 435nm based led and the EVO Mint in conjunction with lm301h 3500k. I still have to add 395-425nm led's, but I don't need the additional cyan or green any longer as that is now covered by.these new Samsung diodes.
 
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