DIY AFN Auto-Pod

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mycter

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Welcome to the beginning of the AFN Auto-Pod project. I don't think there's a thing similar by this name so if there is let me know so I can rename it. AFN because reading your posts here have inspired every thought gone into this. It is a diy in progress as I'm able to find parts. There are no plans, just the one in my head and I don't even know if it will work but I have high hopes. Going to try and find the least expensive items possible while still keeping functionality and somewhat quality in mind in hopes that should I succeed then others will be able to also make one if they desire without going broke.

We start with a couple of cheap Sterilite containers of dark color so to not allow any light through. The latch handles of the small tub were removed because I want a flat surface around the rim for later on in the project. The latch handle holes in the tub are fine left open and will serve a purpose later.

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The goal next is to get the smaller tub into the lid of the larger tub so a mark is made using the bottom of the small tub as a pattern and the space is cut out with a skill saw.

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Now to fit the tub into the opening. I heated around the edge of the cut out space with a propane torch until it was soft and pliable and pushed the small tub into the opening. The tub is tapered somewhat towards the top so it makes for a good snug fit.

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Some of you will see by now where this is going. I'm making the base for my grow box idea...



Next I install an overflow tube with 1" pvc pipe that is 1" below the top rim of the small tub and drill four 1/4" holes along the bottom of the tub for drainage. There are two 1" couplers and two pieces pipe, one at 5" and the other at 1 3/4". A 1 3/8 hole is cut from the bottom center of the tub to fit the 1" pipe through snug and the pipe and fittings are joined with 100% silicone sealant.

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That's all I have for now at a whopping $12 till finding my submersible pump around here somewhere. As is, one could have a functional hydro ebb & flow with some net pot holes cut into the lid, pump, media, nutes and timer but we are making this into a different creature with my grow box idea that will be the top of this AFN Auto-Pod yet to be reality but soon, very soon. Have I said this is going to be an organic/natural media system? Stay tuned!
 
Here's the beginning of the prototype grow chamber. Found this foam insulation sheet with reflective surface on one side at Home Depot for $10. Cut six 2' x 2' pieces to work with and have the sides joined with silicone in the corners. I learned that if I were to use this for the working model, depending on the performance of the reflective surface among other structural considerations yet to be determined, I would cut the 4' x 8' sheet in half lengthwise and cut to the reflective surface at 2' intervals but not through it. That would make assembly alot easier.

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About the interior reflective surface... Given the cost of this material I will be happy if the surface provides enough reflection. It sort of resembles foil. If it proves insufficient I have a roll of adhesive backed reflective vinyl used for solar cooker applications that is a very efficient reflector but costs a bit on the steep side. We'll see how it goes.
 
looks quality take it you will need a timer for the flood and drain I assume thats what your making with the tubs?
 
looks quality take it you will need a timer for the flood and drain I assume thats what your making with the tubs?

Yes I have a timer and a good submersible hydro pump somewhere if I can find it. I'm a dang packrat with more project parts you can shake a stick at. I will find it. Other than what I have on hand, all that's needed are some sockets, brackets & parts, wire and bulbs. I'm still undecided on the bulbs far as type. I found daylight 6500K or full spectrum 5500k, both 27 (I think) watt but I can get two of the daylight almost for the cost of one full spectrum at about $9 per bulb.
 
well the 6500k are tried and tested it would not be unwise to go the cheaper option unless you can compare par watts
 
Great thread!

just a tip, you'll get a much better seal on your standpipes if you use male and female grey pvc electrical conduit adapters instead of the slip couplings, if you size your hole right no silicone(wich doest'nt stick to pvc well) is needed just an O ring or gasket. still cheap, adapters here are 40cents a piece and I bought a kit of 500 O rings for a couple dollars. have to use the grey electrical pvc though, the white pvc versions are tapered on the threads and won't seal properly with thin plastic between. hth:smokebuds:
 
Thanks Bushdoctor, that'll be good to know for future improvements. Found my water pump and gave it a test run. Installed the line up through the tub bottom by melting a hole with a hot piece of copper tubing so it's a tight fit. Takes 90 seconds for the pump to overcome the drain holes and fill to the drain standpipe and then it just stays at this level...

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Somebody here posted that keeping their water aerated was good for the plants so I will also install some bubblers to run all the time from my General Hydroponics two-outlet air pump. Also to be added is a fill line from the side of the lower tub that will also serve as a visual water level indicator. Should be a good use for the Bushdoctor advice on electric conduit fittings with o-ring.
 
Have been thinking some on what to use as nutes in the reservoir and what type of root media might be used. I can see this working as either purely hydroponic or natural/organic. Some years ago I did a patio experiment in a five gallon bucket utilizing small scale airlift to mix/circulate and aerate the liquid contents which was basically a manure compost tea. Grew a rather large tomatoe plant with it in a hydro net pot set in a hole in the lid. I might go with something similar in this project but not airlift. I think simple bubbling will keep the reservoir aerobic and I can add a bit of molasses and/or compost tea now and then to keep microbes alive. Another benefit I see to this is after a grow the reservoir contents can be dumped onto a compost pile and not have any toxic chemicals to worry over in the environment. I think this factor gives hydro a bad outlook over all in the big scheme of things and want to try and remain natural/organic.

I understand the microbial process somewhat since I have worked in wastewater treatment for a number of years and observing huge tomatoe plants growing from the top edge of an old aeration basin with bare roots only hanging onto rusted metal while being splashed with poop water 24/7 is what inspired the airlift bucket experiment. The aerobic microbes continually multiply and die while they eat the organic elements (worm casts, compost, molasses), converting them to plant usable forms and the constant inflow of new, fresh food sources keeps the process going. There will however be some sludge buildup in the natural based system. This is caused by microbes naturally reproducing and dying off plus the accumulation of undigested or spent solids. Keeping the mix aerated at all times will keep the mix aerobic and won't allow for stinky anaerobic bacteria which produces methane and a variety of pathogenic microbes but it will need to be changed periodically as any other hydroponic system.

On second thought an airlift splashing nute water on hydro media pots might not be such a bad idea. Won't have to worry over a clogging pump.

Edited to add...OK stand by while I re-do the reservoir design lol. I got a brainstorm. :D
 
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hydro organic is complicated compared to normal hydroponic because ec meters dont work also clogging issues and not getting the npk ratios right and most important nailing the right micronutrient profile.
even when using commercial hydro forumlas they tend to break down very quickly and for instance biobizz would have to be changed every 48 hours compared to a normal solution up to 14 days! Maybe try adding some fish and trace minerals for an aquaponic system

a hybrid drip system with a coco soil mix with organic tea may have been a easier option
 
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