A classic example of...........???

[FullMoonparty]

What is in your teas? Calcium can be in a lot of things, you are most likely short on P then. You really need to add a balanced feed that is high in P-K. Just trying to feed one element can cause an out of balance situation fast in a pot of soil.

I have seen both good and bad grow dot grows I don't know how to fix a time release problem.

Ask @WildBill or @Fermented_Fruitz what kind of P-K booster they are using!

You may find this helpful.

Tutorial - A word on Nutrients

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis. Salts: Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based...

www.autoflower.org

I used "Recharge" from the Grow Dots line. It's just a bunch of microbes and some dehydrated molasses. (no NPK or calcium).
I see what you mean about "things" being in other things. Lobster/crab meal has calcium but also comes with high nitrogen. Or at least enough to throw things out of whack.
If it is P only that I'm lacking, do you think that bone meal might be my best bet? The bone meal products vary a bit as far as NPK. The one I can get my hands on tomorrow has an NPK ratio of 2-17-0. Some of the more well known and expensive ones have more nitrogen.
Thanks for your help. I guess there's no way to really know what's going on without a soil test. At day 58 it's kind of late to change soil so all I can do is try a best guess. I trust your best guess.
Next round I'll keep it simple and get a soil test Before adding inputs.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Don't know about @Fermented_Fruitz but as far as I know @WildBill is using Build a Soil Build a Bloom 2-10-5, Terp Tea's Bloom 3-7-4, and Bloom Booster .5-6-18. At least that's what he's told me and is what I am using in my earth boxes

I used "Recharge" from the Grow Dots line. It's just a bunch of microbes and some dehydrated molasses. (no NPK or calcium).
I see what you mean about "things" being in other things. Lobster/crab meal has calcium but also comes with high nitrogen. Or at least enough to throw things out of whack.
If it is P only that I'm lacking, do you think that bone meal might be my best bet? The bone meal products vary a bit as far as NPK. The one I can get my hands on tomorrow has an NPK ratio of 2-17-0. Some of the more well known and expensive ones have more nitrogen.
Thanks for your help. I guess there's no way to really know what's going on without a soil test. At day 58 it's kind of late to change soil so all I can do is try a best guess. I trust your best guess.
Next round I'll keep it simple and get a soil test Before adding inputs.

Bone meal will be too slow, I don't think a little N will hurt you but keep it as low as possible. All of the dry mineral sources are going to be too slow for this plant. I would go with the Terp Tea's Bloom now and a little Terp tea Bloom Booster in a couple of weeks.

 

[FullMoonparty]

Bone meal will be too slow, I don't think a little N will hurt you but keep it as low as possible. All of the dry mineral sources are going to be too slow for this plant. I would go with the Terp Tea's Bloom now and a little Terp tea Bloom Booster in a couple of weeks.

True, bone meal takes a while to break down. I will try "terp tea's" Bloom now and booster. Should I follow the directions on the label or go lighter since I'm not exactly sure what's going on with the soil?

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

True, bone meal takes a while to break down. I will try "terp tea's" Bloom now and booster. Should I follow the directions on the label or go lighter since I'm not exactly sure what's going on with the soil?

I would go with about 25% strength, remember you have time release in there still. If after a week the the foliage does not look much better hit it with another light dose.

 

[FullMoonparty]

I would go with about 25% strength, remember you have time release in there still. If after a week the the foliage does not look much better hit it with another light dose.

Great, thanks. Will do. The newer growth and tops look healthiest, so I'll keep an eye out for changes in that.

 

[FullMoonparty]

I placed an order for Roots Organics bloom booster and regular bloom. Unfortunately the bloom booster arrives tommorow and the regular bloom won't get here for a week. The opposite order of your recommendations. Should I use the booster tomorrow at a very low dose to get things started? The plants look healthy otherwise. Praying to the light constantly. No drooping over all. Some leaves are yellowing and falling off. Day 59. Most of my leaves turned grey and fell off already. My brothers "leaves" all fell off at 40.

 

[FullMoonparty]

Things are looking better already. The big problem with Auto Pots is that they do not always wick to the top leaving the first few inches dry as a bone. I had been misting the top once a week but when the plants started to guzzle water the top dried out faster than I expected. The time release fertilizer dose not work in dry soil. Also the feeder roots need to be moist and covered with nutrient filled soil.
I top dressed all plants with potting mix I had leftover. It had some kelp meal but no grow dots. I watered it in with recharge tea. Just getting them re-moistened helped a lot.
I'm going to make these Auto pots work eventually. I think that's the key. Keep the top moist.

 

[BII]

Things are looking better already. The big problem with Auto Pots is that they do not always wick to the top leaving the first few inches dry as a bone. I had been misting the top once a week but when the plants started to guzzle water the top dried out faster than I expected. The time release fertilizer dose not work in dry soil. Also the feeder roots need to be moist and covered with nutrient filled soil.
I top dressed all plants with potting mix I had leftover. It had some kelp meal but no grow dots. I watered it in with recharge tea. Just getting them re-moistened helped a lot.
I'm going to make these Auto pots work eventually. I think that's the key. Keep the top moist.

But by top feeding you are adding risk (likelihood?) that dried salts deposited in surface soil (here where most soil water evaporation naturally occurs from the mostly bottom feeding) will redissolve and cause excesses, imbalances, lockouts, etc.

Look into and get comments from AutoPot users about how they handle this issue. You may well need to do some frequent flushing (top feeding drain-to-waste).

 

[FullMoonparty]

But by top feeding you are adding risk (likelihood?) that dried salts deposited in surface soil (here where most soil water evaporation naturally occurs from the mostly bottom feeding) will redissolve and cause excesses, imbalances, lockouts, etc.

Look into and get comments from AutoPot users about how they handle this issue. You may well need to do some frequent flushing (top feeding drain-to-waste).

It never got too bad except for when I went away for a few days, The very lighte dose of grow dots I used did not produce any salts on the surface. I had that happen with a different line of nutes. I used a shop vac to remove about a quarter inch of soil. I replaced that soil with some fresh top dressing from build a soil. I did the same thing for a bad gnat problem.
The Auto Pots work, It takes a bit more attention than I have been giving them.

 

[BII]

Regarding "The very light dose of grow dots I used did not produce any salts on the surface," keep in mind that with water generally flowing through the soil from the bottom feeding to the top surface, salts are surely there in top layers, even if you don't see it. [How did you determine that bottom feeding "did not produce any salts on the surface?"].

Removing top layer soil and adding fresh top dressing (adding more nutes?) is a radical move, and I presume you will likely have to continue to remove top soil periodically. Doing this, the top layer is of no use for growing roots. I think occasional good drain-to-waste from the top is preferable. But check with actual AutoPot experts!