1st grow, PLEASE HELP. Plan to recover my girls?

Weedname · Jan 5, 2023

biginjvpvn said:
Runoff Ph was about 6.4

Sorry, rookie grower thats why noob questions. So do I want them dry out completely for the next couple days so I can give calmag and a bloom-booster?
Yes, correct I use biotabs. To be honest I had no idea I should give calmag with every feeding so at day 35 I fed them Bio PK which NPK was 2-5-8 and leaves started clawing.

No problems with the questions, asking is what you should do when you woundering about something.
You should only know how much i have asked people about - some blokes here have probably put me on their ”silent-list” :rofl:

.

I don’t believe that the Bio-PK made your plants to start showing deficiency’s. I believe it comes down to poor watering skills, which you will practice on in future grows and also to start with a bloom-fertilizer a little bit earlier.

If it were me i would have given the girls 1ml per liter CalMag and the bloom-booster at recommended dosage.

Leafs that have gone crispy and very yellow or brown is difficult or impossible to bring green again, but once you catch it early it’s easy to fix in most cases.

To be honest it’s not always so easy to tell someone over the internet on how to fix things, because once you do one thing it affects another which can and will affect a third one.

I hope your plants will look better after some food, or else it’s just to start some new ones to get it right the next time.

JP1 · Jan 5, 2023

@Bob's Auto's is the biotab guy and a wonderful grower. I wouldn't do anything drastic until you've hopefully heard from him. Especially don't flush. I'd give it some microbes in the meantime if you have something on hand just to help from your prior flush

biginjvpvn · Jan 5, 2023

JP1 said:
@Bob's Auto's is the biotab guy and a wonderful grower. I wouldn't do anything drastic until you've hopefully heard from him. Especially don't flush. I'd give it some microbes in the meantime if you have something on hand just to help from your prior flush

thanks! fortunately I do have mycotrex and bactrex left from the kit. hopefully @Bob's Auto's could help me here

biginjvpvn · Jan 5, 2023

JP1 said:
@Bob's Auto's is the biotab guy and a wonderful grower. I wouldn't do anything drastic until you've hopefully heard from him. Especially don't flush. I'd give it some microbes in the meantime if you have something on hand just to help from your prior flush

ye i do have some mycotrex and bactrex left

Bob's Auto's · Jan 6, 2023

Hey there @biginjvpvn :toke:

First off... :welcome:

to AFN!! Chill out and have a :pass:

biginjvpvn said:
The thing is everything was alright, I mean CDLC showed very little signs of nutburn like 1mm yellow tips on some leaves and critical didn't have any issues at all but when it just hit 2 week of flowering Magnesium deficiency started on CDLC and Calcium on Critical then I used Calmag but also give the Bio Pk 5-8 by Biotabs since flowering started so I assume Bio PK 5-8 fucked up the whole thing?

First of all, never ever flush an organic soil. It's just not necessary

I presume you used the 'just add water' approach yeah?

Well, then there is enough in the soil to last you the entire grow. Use the BIO PK 5-8 the last three to four weeks of flower. And start at half the dose.
Never use cal/mag as the Silicium Flash is full with it and you've added 50gr. already... only when you start to see deficiencies (not deficiency caused by excess) is it recommended to top dress with Silicium flash.

I find that the 15L line in the chart above works best for auto's, at least strength wise this results in soil that's almost nutrient free when your grow is finished so you can reuse the soil again and again.

But that was all theory and not much worth for you right now...What i would do is the following.

Set aside 5L tapwater so the Chlorine can evaporate the coming days.
per pot/plant, use two teaspoons of Mycotrex and spread that on top of the soil and work it several centimeters/one inch into the soil.
Put a heatmat underneath your pots. This will help in evaporate the water in the waterlogged soil, but look out that the temperature doesn't go beyond 25°C, which I find is to hot for the roots, but not doing anything will result in acidification and pH issues.
Next, and this is the most important thing...Wait and weigh the pots every day until they are dry enough to be watered again.
When needed use the tapwater you set aside and add 5 teaspoons of Bactrex to it. If you also have the Orgatrex, you can add 20ml of that to the mix. If you don't have Orgatrex, add two teaspoons of molasses, this will at least have the benefit of feeding the bacteria in the Bactrex, but it doesn't have the other additives of course...
Now water the solution slowly into the pots. Do this slowly as to prevent dry spots in the soil. You want the soil to be wet entirely without it being waterlogged... If you're not sure, use a shot glass or a piece of air tubing to water with...That way you can never give to much in one go. Weigh your pots during and feel if it's watered enough. You'll get the feel of it, I promise
Now wait some more, after giving the water with Bactrex and Orgatrex the plants should start to come by and return some color.

Goodluck mate!!

biginjvpvn · Jan 6, 2023

Bob's Auto's said:
Hey there @biginjvpvn
First off... to AFN!! Chill out and have a

First of all, never ever flush an organic soil. It's just not necessary
I presume you used the 'just add water' approach yeah?
View attachment 1553309

Well, then there is enough in the soil to last you the entire grow. Use the BIO PK 5-8 the last three to four weeks of flower. And start at half the dose.
Never use cal/mag as the Silicium Flash is full with it and you've added 50gr. already... only when you start to see deficiencies (not deficiency caused by excess) is it recommended to top dress with Silicium flash.

I find that the 15L line in the chart above works best for auto's, at least strength wise this results in soil that's almost nutrient free when your grow is finished so you can reuse the soil again and again.

But that was all theory and not much worth for you right now...What i would do is the following.

Set aside 5L tapwater so the Chlorine can evaporate the coming days.

per pot/plant, use two teaspoons of Mycotrex and spread that on top of the soil and work it several centimeters/one inch into the soil.

Put a heatmat underneath your pots. This will help in evaporate the water in the waterlogged soil, but look out that the temperature doesn't go beyond 25°C, which I find is to hot for the roots, but not doing anything will result in acidification and pH issues.

Next, and this is the most important thing...Wait and weigh the pots every day until they are dry enough to be watered again.

When needed use the tapwater you set aside and add 5 teaspoons of Bactrex to it. If you also have the Orgatrex, you can add 20ml of that to the mix. If you don't have Orgatrex, add two teaspoons of molasses, this will at least have the benefit of feeding the bacteria in the Bactrex, but it doesn't have the other additives of course...

Now water the solution slowly into the pots. Do this slowly as to prevent dry spots in the soil. You want the soil to be wet entirely without it being waterlogged... If you're not sure, use a shot glass or a piece of air tubing to water with...That way you can never give to much in one go. Weigh your pots during and feel if it's watered enough. You'll get the feel of it, I promise

Now wait some more, after giving the water with Bactrex and Orgatrex the plants should start to come by and return some color.

Goodluck mate!!

Thank you for the response and great advice! I'm gonna go ahead and follow your instructions.
One issue Im facing its that it already goes beyond 25C cause of light intensity, im trying to deal with it but so far 160$ wasted on useless mini air conditioner.
Will think how to fix it.
Thanks again, if anything else may I still ask for further assistance ?

Bob's Auto's · Jan 6, 2023

biginjvpvn said:
Thank you for the response and great advice! I'm gonna go ahead and follow your instructions.
One issue Im facing its that it already goes beyond 25C cause of light intensity, im trying to deal with it but so far 160$ wasted on useless mini air conditioner.
Will think how to fix it.
Thanks again, if anything else may I still ask for further assistance ?

Of course bro, that's what we're here for. Just ask it in a thread, that way others can chime in and correct my, sometimes, dumb advises

biginjvpvn · Jan 6, 2023

Bob's Auto's said:
Of course bro, that's what we're here for. Just ask it in a thread, that way others can chime in and correct my, sometimes, dumb advises

Thanks, also replying to your first question I used classic strategy with no silicium flash. Honestly I'm confused why it showed nitrogen deficiency (my partner thinks its potassium tho we're both noobs) if soil was prepped according to the guide
CalMag was the solution I found on subreddit. dunno if the NPK ratio messed it up and if so why and how it happened.
Side note: BioTabs seem to have vastly different methods on how to use the tabs and when to add them, all over the Web. Their auto guide on their YouTube is different to the schedule they give with your nute pack..

Bob's Auto's · Jan 6, 2023

This manual is the only one I use. I've not used the Organic chart, but rather the 'water only' approach. Then you also add Silicium Flash from the start and don't run into that issue. Ever since I started using that, my grows have succeeded each time.

Silicium Flash is also used when you have deficiencies. You can use it to top dress the soil with. Works within 2-3 days!!

biginjvpvn said:
Their auto guide on their YouTube is different to the schedule they give with your nute pack..

I discussed spreading the BioTabs with Karel last spring. He figures to wait 7-10 days between the first BioTab, being pushed into the soil and the second. That's because auto's don't need that much nutrients in the beginning, but once they go into veg they can absorb such a tab in two weeks!!
What I do is push one tab about 5cm/2" into the soil and the other one, on the opposite side of the pot, 10-15cm/4-6" deep into the soil. That way you don't disturb the roots as there aren't any yet... I think there is no wrong way with the BioTabs as they need to be broken down by the bacteria first before the nutrient become available for the plants...

St. Tom · Jan 6, 2023

biginjvpvn said:
Thanks, also replying to your first question I used classic strategy with no silicium flash. Honestly I'm confused why it showed nitrogen deficiency (my partner thinks its potassium tho we're both noobs) if soil was prepped according to the guide
CalMag was the solution I found on subreddit. dunno if the NPK ratio messed it up and if so why and how it happened.
Side note: BioTabs seem to have vastly different methods on how to use the tabs and when to add them, all over the Web. Their auto guide on their YouTube is different to the schedule they give with your nute pack..

bob will help you get your girls back on track for sure bro

1st grow, PLEASE HELP. Plan to recover my girls?

Weedname

Make love not war.

JP1

Johnny Blazin

biginjvpvn

biginjvpvn

Bob's Auto's

On a breeding journey...

blue

St. Tom

biginjvpvn

Bob's Auto's

On a breeding journey...

biginjvpvn

Bob's Auto's

On a breeding journey...

blue

St. Tom

chillin like a villain

blue

Similar threads