Why is my plant drooping.

[Kinezokyprios]

When you face cal mag problems and your medium is soil, you must never flush so violently because you make it worse. You must add cal mag in the form you choose and lower the water you provide. Calcium is slow to enter the plant but fast to leave the soil. It follows the water to wherever it goes but gravity regulates the speed. So you add cal mag, water less and wait. Adjust your feed after the flush cause your plant has less nutrients available after the flush.

 

[Kinezokyprios]

What I suggest for fertiliser is dry organic fertiliser for roses (1 table spoon per pot) and dry cal mag supplement for tomatoes ( 1 table spoon per pot) and then plain water for the rest of the grow. Plants will get what they really need and the quality (smell, taste, potency) is optimum. Cal mag issues are most of the time non existing, but actually only an alarm that you have humidity issues. Try to have an analogy of temperature to humidity close to 25C/70% for grow and 25C/45-50% for flowering and actually you don't need to add supplements and worry about cal mag issues. Rarely a plant really needs extra cal mag, we add because it is an easy solution or because we flush and then we have a real deficiency.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

I agree, flushing is always a last ditch effort. It may have been the right decision after adding chicken manure. If it was not composted properly or you got some from the edge of the pile; It can be way too hot with nitrogen. I think you may be having PH problems now. You need to check the PH in the root zone with a good probe. I recommend the Accurate 8 or a BlueLab soil probe. When you say you are running coco with soil what is the ratio? Is there just a little coco to open the structure or just a little soil for the microbes?

 

[Skycable]

What I suggest for fertiliser is dry organic fertiliser for roses (1 table spoon per pot) and dry cal mag supplement for tomatoes ( 1 table spoon per pot) and then plain water for the rest of the grow. Plants will get what they really need and the quality (smell, taste, potency) is optimum. Cal mag issues are most of the time non existing, but actually only an alarm that you have humidity issues. Try to have an analogy of temperature to humidity close to 25C/70% for grow and 25C/45-50% for flowering and actually you don't need to add supplements and worry about cal mag issues. Rarely a plant really needs extra cal mag, we add because it is an easy solution or because we flush and then we have a real deficiency.

When you face cal mag problems and your medium is soil, you must never flush so violently because you make it worse. You must add cal mag in the form you choose and lower the water you provide. Calcium is slow to enter the plant but fast to leave the soil. It follows the water to wherever it goes but gravity regulates the speed. So you add cal mag, water less and wait. Adjust your feed after the flush cause your plant has less nutrients available after the flush.

I wish I had asked before I flushed.
Thanks for tips.

 

[Skycable]

What I suggest for fertiliser is dry organic fertiliser for roses (1 table spoon per pot) and dry cal mag supplement for tomatoes ( 1 table spoon per pot) and then plain water for the rest of the grow. Plants will get what they really need and the quality (smell, taste, potency) is optimum. Cal mag issues are most of the time non existing, but actually only an alarm that you have humidity issues. Try to have an analogy of temperature to humidity close to 25C/70% for grow and 25C/45-50% for flowering and actually you don't need to add supplements and worry about cal mag issues. Rarely a plant really needs extra cal mag, we add because it is an easy solution or because we flush and then we have a real deficiency.

Thank you for replying. I will try this for the next feeding.

On these pictures I took today, there are these brown dry spots on the leaves and some of the lower leaves are dying. Should I cut the leaves with brown spots because the spots are getting bigger or should I leave because it won't help.
And what about those dead lower leaves, I want to leave them till they fall of.

 

[Skycable]

I agree, flushing is always a last ditch effort. It may have been the right decision after adding chicken manure. If it was not composted properly or you got some from the edge of the pile; It can be way too hot with nitrogen. I think you may be having PH problems now. You need to check the PH in the root zone with a good probe. I recommend the Accurate 8 or a BlueLab soil probe. When you say you are running coco with soil what is the ratio? Is there just a little coco to open the structure or just a little soil for the microbes?

It's 50/50

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

It's 50/50

With that much soil you need to treat this like a soil grow accept you will need more Cal-Mag to keep the coco ions out of play. PH 6.2 to 6.6. If you have any Mykos or Recharge You should use some after the flush. As to the right amount of nutrients it is a crap shoot start at 50% of vendor charts and bump up every other or 3rd feeding by 10% until the plants look green again. In the mean time you may want to do a foliar feed with Fulvic Acid, Kelp, Vitamin b1, and some Aminos.

 

[Skycable]

With that much soil you need to treat this like a soil grow accept you will need more Cal-Mag to keep the coco ions out of play. PH 6.2 to 6.6. If you have any Mykos or Recharge You should use some after the flush. As to the right amount of nutrients it is a crap shoot start at 50% of vendor charts and bump up every other or 3rd feeding by 10% until the plants look green again. In the mean time you may want to do a foliar feed with Fulvic Acid, Kelp, Vitamin b1, and some Aminos.

Thank you.