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The first one in the name is the receiver ie, female. The second one is the donor ie, male.Quick curiosity.
When looking at mephisto linage. Is it possible to understand which one has been used as male and which as female?
Unless they describe it in their notules on the site, they use males in their breeding. If you start with a regular photo, you have 50% males so...I don’t believe the guys use males in their program.
And by creating your breeding stock, like @stan_mephisto said, they will surely have plenty of auto males already. I've just begun breeding with regular auto's and I have about 26 regular auto cultivars.
Once you get your hands on one regular cultivar your options are limitless.
F3 is theoretically 100% auto, but that's only if both parents have the auto gene on the same allele, if they are not you should be around 95-97%. To finalize this you do one more sibling cross and you have a full 100% auto F4. But watch out, one back cross to one of the previous parents and you can start all over again. That's what I'm planning with the WW project, which is delayed for an undisclosed reason.Is F3 the first stable generation? Or F4?
Yes. The F1's will be the most vigorous and will look alike. Be careful with the F2's as here lies the challenge. Depending on how much the parents differ from each other the amount of variance in the offspring will be tremendous. Finding two siblings who are alike is like finding a needle in a haystack.Are these steps for autoflowering breeding correct?
In case of the auto gene, you should select the fastest flowering F1 photo parents to use as the new parents for the F2 generation. Or, even better keep the plants at 14/10 or 16/8. The plants that start to flower under that light schedule are definitely 'fast' versions. From the F3 generation your life will get easier. Keep the plants at 24/7 and the ones that flower will be the auto's. Remove the ones that don't flower from the equation and flower out to select further, based on the other variables of your choice.