Science can't help us cause science can't agree on the definition of a good plant and neither can we. It's like the discussion of the best light spectrum, it will allways reduce to junk cause we can't agree on the definition of the best plant or the best grow. It's all fine cause I can learn how the plant grow and grow it how I want. We should all just move on from the notion of that the best way exist and talk about how the changes we can do will change the plant's life and in the end the harvested medicine. I have 30 watt per sqft, maybe 35-40 with the fans included but I want to double it. I prefer to keep the lights on all the time cause the plants don't grow in darkness and that means the fans are wasting electricity for no growth. I prefer to mess with other variables, nutrients, humidity, temperature, soil moisture, wind speed and light intensity. I train the plant and lower the lights for increased light intensity or raise them for even distribution.
Since bad plants are in the majority, indoor growers; and some outdoor growers too, have long forgotten what a cannabis plant actually look like growing in the sun light. I have never seen one with dark leaves. Nor have I seen one reaching up to the sun. Leaf damage, stretching And the lightening /darkening of the leaves are all sings of an improperly grown plant. We blame the strain, the feed. We blame it on temps. Not to mention, We are quick to blame the lights. @BigSm0 who I owe an apology. I accused his autocobs of causing my plants that are closer to the light , to lighten up. I promise you that the cobs didn’t cause this, because I have plant even closer to the light that are not getting lighter. The bottom line is that grower error is the cause of 99.9% of plant problems. I did that, not the autocobs. Shouts out to @BigSmO one more time for revolutionizing grow lights with his autocobs. The sad part is, most growers don’t have the skills to get the full benefits of the auto cob nor the autoflower.
Ruderalis is not getting 24/7 in nature as they have dark and foggy days that will count as a dark cycle...like having the red and far red light on only for grow......which many use for extended hours of flower. 14/10 (dark cycle)...if you look at wild ruderalis you will see many forms..but most i see are squat but stretched with far internodal patterns......really not much budlike matter....now we crossed it..wanting those big colas....did ruderalis lighting provide this before? no....which is why i feel during veg to go 24/7 but in flower to 20/4, 18/6...to go along with those photo characteristics...where that girth and swell will take place for that photo sized female parts
nope..just came across as someone who questions/looks for answers as i do...woof......and check this out..someone in a grow group on fb supposedly got hooked up with one of theses......"Cropters"..check out whats "its supposed to do"...woof.
nope..just came across as someone who questions/looks for answers as i do...woof......and check this out..someone in a grow group on fb supposedly got hooked up with one of theses......"Cropters"..check out whats "its supposed to do"...woof.
View attachment 1155028
Ofcourse it can use light 24/7, science support it cause it is a C3 plant and C3 plants don't need a dark period. So dark period=nonsense. Dim period would the right terminology cause light intensity change processes in plants. That is it, C3 plants don't need darkness.
So by limiting the intensity to zero the overall daily processes of the plants will be different but light is not the only one that change processes, you could try humid period and dry period also, it would make a difference in plant process too but do the plant need a daily humid period?
I have also seen changes in photoperiod plants by reducing light intensity a few hours by shutting off the lights, some strains do like that but they may also like it cold, humid, less nutrients and so on.
