Watering and Drainage
Hello, I'm new to AFN so I'm sure that the topic of watering has been already covered many times over. I would like to, however, give my opinions on "drainage" based on many years of growing plants and gardening.
Roots of any plant, even grass (the kind you walk on) seek water. When plants are not "deep" watered the roots tend to turn upward to find the shallow water. Shallow roots are not good for the overall health of the plant. When plants are given a deep watering the roots tend to move down and out. Deep roots improve the health and hardiness of the plant.
This is the method that I use that has proved successful for me for many years.
1. Regardless of the size of planter you use (I use a two gallon...but I believe three gallon might be better), I would recommend a "lighter" soil mixture. In my case, I generally use 2/3 Fox Farms Ocean Forest and 1/3 Fox Farms Seeding starter mix. Half and half would probably be fine also. I mix in some "perlite". The perlite allows for air to circulate easier in the soil. Lighter soils tend to not compact as much as heavier soils. Lighter soils also allow for better drainage.
2. The planters I use have "many" holes drilled in the bottom. This is, for me, critical. The "more" holes in the bottom of the planter the better (within reason, of course). Why so many holes? Water will freely flow out of the planter and not "pool" at the bottom. If the water pools at the bottom of the planter you could get root rot. Some people just put one or two holes in the planter and that may work, but I do believe you can't have enough holes. If you are using a heavier soil mixture then it is especially important that water freely drains from the planter, because heavier soils tend to retain water better then light soils.
3. I use a coat hanger and once a week or so to poke holes in the soil. This helps aerate the soil. You see this done on golf courses. Again, this is especially important if you are using a heavier soil mixture.
4. I "flood" the soil with PH'd water. Yes, I flood it. I want water to very freely flow out the bottom of the planter. I want the soil to be totally saturated. I then tilt the planter to make sure all or most of the "excess" water has drained out. I don't want any water "pooling" at the bottom of the planter. Because the soil I use is lighter, the water drains out fairly well compared to heavier soils. Yes, it does mean you water a bit more often but it also tends to remove a lot of issues regarding over watering. I now let the plant dry out ....I don't ever add any more water (other then light misting) to the plant until I'm clear that the soil is fairly dry. I use a cheap water meter, but I also lift up the planter to see if it is light in weight. The soil will dry from the "top"...so just checking the top does not work. We want the roots to reach down and out in the planter. If you just and only feel the top of the soil and it's dry and "then" add more water....you are asking the roots to turn around and reach up. Please, no. What I want is for the roots to seek moisture further down the planter. When the planter gets real light and the water meter says it's getting "somewhat" dry at the "bottom"......then it's time to repeat the whole process. Of course, the larger the plant gets, the more often it will need watering.
I believe the issue you read about so much regarding how much water to give a plant ...and when...can be eliminated if the plants are "well" watered with very, very high drainage and then allowed to dry out. Problems start to arise when people "think" the plant needs water and then give it a sip here and a sip there until the plant roots start to rot, or the roots are so shallow that it impairs growth.
Finally, I use a cheap fish tank aerator ...the kind you buy at the pet store for $15 or so. I add some tubing and an air stone and put the air stone into a bucket of water. I just let it bubble the water that I'm going to use to water the plants. Does it help? I can't say for sure. It "seems" to perk up the plants with extra oxygen, but I only have antidotal evidence to that. It is definitely cheaper then using hydrogen peroxide.
Hello, I'm new to AFN so I'm sure that the topic of watering has been already covered many times over. I would like to, however, give my opinions on "drainage" based on many years of growing plants and gardening.
Roots of any plant, even grass (the kind you walk on) seek water. When plants are not "deep" watered the roots tend to turn upward to find the shallow water. Shallow roots are not good for the overall health of the plant. When plants are given a deep watering the roots tend to move down and out. Deep roots improve the health and hardiness of the plant.
This is the method that I use that has proved successful for me for many years.
1. Regardless of the size of planter you use (I use a two gallon...but I believe three gallon might be better), I would recommend a "lighter" soil mixture. In my case, I generally use 2/3 Fox Farms Ocean Forest and 1/3 Fox Farms Seeding starter mix. Half and half would probably be fine also. I mix in some "perlite". The perlite allows for air to circulate easier in the soil. Lighter soils tend to not compact as much as heavier soils. Lighter soils also allow for better drainage.
2. The planters I use have "many" holes drilled in the bottom. This is, for me, critical. The "more" holes in the bottom of the planter the better (within reason, of course). Why so many holes? Water will freely flow out of the planter and not "pool" at the bottom. If the water pools at the bottom of the planter you could get root rot. Some people just put one or two holes in the planter and that may work, but I do believe you can't have enough holes. If you are using a heavier soil mixture then it is especially important that water freely drains from the planter, because heavier soils tend to retain water better then light soils.
3. I use a coat hanger and once a week or so to poke holes in the soil. This helps aerate the soil. You see this done on golf courses. Again, this is especially important if you are using a heavier soil mixture.
4. I "flood" the soil with PH'd water. Yes, I flood it. I want water to very freely flow out the bottom of the planter. I want the soil to be totally saturated. I then tilt the planter to make sure all or most of the "excess" water has drained out. I don't want any water "pooling" at the bottom of the planter. Because the soil I use is lighter, the water drains out fairly well compared to heavier soils. Yes, it does mean you water a bit more often but it also tends to remove a lot of issues regarding over watering. I now let the plant dry out ....I don't ever add any more water (other then light misting) to the plant until I'm clear that the soil is fairly dry. I use a cheap water meter, but I also lift up the planter to see if it is light in weight. The soil will dry from the "top"...so just checking the top does not work. We want the roots to reach down and out in the planter. If you just and only feel the top of the soil and it's dry and "then" add more water....you are asking the roots to turn around and reach up. Please, no. What I want is for the roots to seek moisture further down the planter. When the planter gets real light and the water meter says it's getting "somewhat" dry at the "bottom"......then it's time to repeat the whole process. Of course, the larger the plant gets, the more often it will need watering.
I believe the issue you read about so much regarding how much water to give a plant ...and when...can be eliminated if the plants are "well" watered with very, very high drainage and then allowed to dry out. Problems start to arise when people "think" the plant needs water and then give it a sip here and a sip there until the plant roots start to rot, or the roots are so shallow that it impairs growth.
Finally, I use a cheap fish tank aerator ...the kind you buy at the pet store for $15 or so. I add some tubing and an air stone and put the air stone into a bucket of water. I just let it bubble the water that I'm going to use to water the plants. Does it help? I can't say for sure. It "seems" to perk up the plants with extra oxygen, but I only have antidotal evidence to that. It is definitely cheaper then using hydrogen peroxide.
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