Water and nute mix pH and PPM for soil grow

[SHRED]

Assuming my soil is within proper pH range what should my watering pH be including tea which I will mainly be using?

What should my ppm levels be for brewed tea?

Is the attached chart accurate for ppm?

 

[WildBill]

If you are organic, don't worry about either if you're talking about making compost teas.
Not super clear on your question with limited info.
Now that's a given that your tap water or the water your using is good to start with.

Ya left out too much info to give you a valid answer without making assumptions...............you know what happens when you ASSUME.

 

[SHRED]

If you are organic, don't worry about either if you're talking about making compost teas.
Not super clear on your question with limited info.
Now that's a given that your tap water or the water your using is good to start with.

Ya left out too much info to give you a valid answer without making assumptions...............you know what happens when you ASSUME.

Okay.
I just thought there was a final pH and ppm range for teas, nutrient rich water, and plain water.

 

[WildBill]

Okay.
I just thought there was a final pH and ppm range for teas, nutrient rich water, and plain water.

No, like I said, if your water is fine to start with, it will be fine,
When brewing compot tea, your water will acidify as it brews as the microbes eat the food. Just like fermenting and activating EM1.
In organics, the pH of your water is not as important as it is using non-organic nutes. Using salt based nute, the water has to be within a certain range for the plant to be able to take up nutes. If not in that range, the plant can't take them up. Different chemical nutes have certain ph levels where it will get locked out and unavailable to the plant.
In organics, the microbe make the food available to the plant.
That's a very simplistic answer, but you should get the reasoning behind it.

 

[SHRED]

No, like I said, if your water is fine to start with, it will be fine,
When brewing compot tea, your water will acidify as it brews as the microbes eat the food. Just like fermenting and activating EM1.
In organics, the pH of your water is not as important as it is using non-organic nutes. Using salt based nute, the water has to be within a certain range for the plant to be able to take up nutes. If not in that range, the plant can't take them up. Different chemical nutes have certain ph levels where it will get locked out and unavailable to the plant.
In organics, the microbe make the food available to the plant.
That's a very simplistic answer, but you should get the reasoning behind it.

So I'm gathering that if you aren't too far off in pH then soil is very forgiving?

 

[WildBill]

So I'm gathering that if you aren't too far off in pH then soil is very forgiving?

Sorta.................I know that's not much of an answer. It would take quite a bit to fully explain it and I'm pretty ripped at the moment with a high pain level day. But You get the jest of the idea.
Organics has it's basic things that work in container grows. It's not as exact as non-organic nutes NEED to be. Your plant communicates with the microbes and tells them what it needs and if its available, they convert it to a usable form for the plant to uptake. The plant gives the microbes a bit of food that it makes for living and growth as a part of the process.
Quite interesting the deeper you get into it.
Best advice I can give to you on growing organically in container:
BIG POTS.........more food in the bank without having to add so much during the grow.
Think 10-14 days ahead of the plant's needs to give time for it to be available to the plant.............like going into flower.
When you water, water fully after a dry down. Watering is an art. Lean the weight of your pot when fully watered so it easy to tell when it full and in need of watering.
Run your tent to the warm side of the general accepted range of indoor growing range. Better for microbes. I run mine 80-83*F That does mean keeping the RH relativly high to maintain a proper VPD, especially early on. At 83*F, young seedlings would need around 69%Rh to have .8kPa VPD